What Grit To Refresh With?

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Witterings

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I've very recently got way better at sharpening and realised where I was going wrong, I was trying to use a Lansky Turnbox on knives that their profile / sharpening angle wasn't the same and it wasn't touching them, I wsa spending hours and making ni difference at all.
When I realised this I used a 300 grit then 1000 grit diamond stone to reprofile / set the angle reducing the shoulder and then the Turnbox to finish them off and am completely blown away by the difference.

Going forward, if I was to sharpen them in a few weeks time would you go back to the 300 to start or just use the Turnbox?
I also have available a decent double sided 1000/6000 whetstone I could use but is a lot more time consuming and harder to get "right" than something as simple as the Lansky.

In essence I'm asking if it'd be necessary to go back to something as harsh as the 300 or is that maybe once a year to make sure the profile's still good.
My one other alternative is to buy some diamond rods for the Turbox, the set I have is the 800 and 1000 grit ceramics, the diamond rods are 600 grit so would have thought they'd make a difference if the shoulder was getting in the way / needed reducing .... certainly the Turnbox would be the quickest / easiest.
 
rickbern said:
What kind of knife are you sharpening?
Click to expand...
It'll be the lot from Chef's knife to utility to paring and santoku so really a general question and kitchen knives mainly.

I guess part of it will be try it when I get there but my diamond stone has probably seen better days and I have to order some other bits and was thinking about getting a new one (one lot of postage to order now) but if I'm not going to use it much in the future probably wouldn't bother.
 
For maintenance you shouldn't need to go back to 300, just use the 1000/6000. That's should be enough to keep it sharp. I'd use 300 only if the edge is going dull really bad.
 
Cliff said:
Unless you're a pro, you shouldn't even need to drop down to 1K that often. What steel is this?
Click to expand...
Really depends on the knife, and your preferences. My cleavers, and the heavy or thin-geometry knives I like best, can keep cutting for a long time after the edge is no longer keen. By the time I go back to the stones, the knife needs more than a finisher, and I do go straight to the 1000, albeit with a very light touch.

For a lightweight knife that is not super thin behind the edge, I do sometimes get annoyed with the edge soon enough for it just to need a touchup on the finisher.
 
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Witterings said:
It'll be the lot from Chef's knife to utility to paring and santoku so really a general question and kitchen knives mainly.

I guess part of it will be try it when I get there but my diamond stone has probably seen better days and I have to order some other bits and was thinking about getting a new one (one lot of postage to order now) but if I'm not going to use it much in the future probably wouldn't bother.
Click to expand...
Are they artisanal knives or mass produced ones? Some knives you’d end at 1000 grit, others at 6000. Depends on the hardness of the steel.
 
Cliff said:
Unless you're a pro, you shouldn't even need to drop down to 1K that often. What steel is this?
Click to expand...

No not a pro ... have always had rubbish, cheap supermarket knives ... and maybe I'm getting ahead of myself as those will be little used going forward as have ordered various Victorinox Fibrox knives and maybe their profile is better set.
That said I won't be chucking the old ones as it's great to have beaters around you can abuse but still want to keep them relatively sharp.

Used my whetstone for the 1st time in ages today, there's a serious hollow in it, flattening it will be my next job.
 
Last edited:
For Victorinox and similar softer Western steels, I sharpen on Chosera 400 (c 600 JIS) then final deburring on Chosera 1k (c 1500 JIS) although Chosera 800 (c 1200 JIS) is probably more appropriate.
 
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