What Is Your Go-To Coarse Stone For Heavy Lifting?

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Lightening fast delivery from Tony at @TokushuKnife.

Only had a few moments with the stone but this thing is a trip! Obviously the construction is unlike anything else. It's very light and you don't get stiction but it may also just be a clever way to use minimal diamond abrasive.

I've already done a bunch of work on this knife so there isn't much heavy lifting to do so that means it'll be a while before I really put it through its paces but I can say that I don't hate the feel, it doesn't feel like it is several grits finer than the stated grit and I like the initial scratch pattern.

Now, that is after all of maybe five minutes so that opinion may well change, especially when I do some real work with it, but right now, I don't hate or regret it.
 
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Lightening fast delivery from Tony at @TokushuKnife.

Only had a few moments with the stone but this thing is a trip! Obviously the construction is unlike anything else. It's very light and you don't get stiction but it may also just be a clever way to use minimal diamond abrasive.

I've already done a bunch of work on this knife so there isn't much heavy lifting to do so that means it'll be a while before I really put it through its paces but I can say that I don't hate the feel, it doesn't feel like it is several grits finer than the stated grit and I like the initial scratch pattern.

Now, that is after all of maybe five minutes so that opinion may well change, especially when I do some real work with it, but right now, I don't hate or regret it.
What is it?
 
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View attachment 274064

View attachment 274065

View attachment 274066

Lightening fast delivery from Tony at @TokushuKnife.

Only had a few moments with the stone but this thing is a trip! Obviously the construction is unlike anything else. It's very light and you don't get stiction but it may also just be a clever way to use minimal diamond abrasive.

I've already done a bunch of work on this knife so there isn't much heavy lifting to do so that means it'll be a while before I really put it through its paces but I can say that I don't hate the feel, it doesn't feel like it is several grits finer than the stated grit and I like the initial scratch pattern.

Now, that is after all of maybe five minutes so that opinion may well change, especially when I do some real work with it, but right now, I don't hate or regret it.
Happy to hear you like it so far. They certainly save some time and some mess, while avoiding gouging the finish even at low grits. I was thinking of trying the for a light travel sharpening kit.
 
So I was looking through old posts because I’m also considering a courser stone than the chosera 400 and I see that Milan recommended the imanishi arato 220. Any thoughts on that?
I like the imanishi 220 and if I had to go back using whetstones, instead of diamond stones, I would use this Imanishi 220 and would buy a bunch of Debado 180 for San mai.
On Honyaki, I am not using diamond stones but I use Namikawa stones that I shaped convex recently. Namikawa got two lines mostly Asahi and Tokkyu-in. Tokkyu in are harder stones. Kongo stones 180 ans 220 and good stones made of sic powder, I will be a little soft sometimes and when completly soaked behave too soft. Tokkyu in are corindon/aluminium oxyde I guess and they behave more consistently.
They also have 120 stones. If I remember, Hard is just too hard. Soft is very soft (too soft) but a grinding machine. Maybe it is best not to soak it and just add water to keep it as hard as possible.
On diamond stones, I am mostly using Venev those days and a bit NSK. NSK are great stones, just a little expensive and I keep them for critical work those days. Venev are great stones too, only difficulty is to make them cut sometimes. My best way is to use 36 grit sic powder on the surface of a granit. This will wake them up like if they drank a litter of coffee.
 
I am mostly using Bester 220 on simple steel kitchen knives, but have some thinning work to be done on high wear resistant steels - where I actually did not get all that far with Atoma 140. I just realized that I still have Venev 150 (JIS), I guess I need to try that one. I also have 400 and 2000 grit diamond stones, but 400 is just not coarse enough for heavy steel hogging. It is great though for sharpening of high wear resistant steels - there the difference to normal stones is considerable.
 
I like the imanishi 220 and if I had to go back using whetstones, instead of diamond stones, I would use this Imanishi 220 and would buy a bunch of Debado 180 for San mai.
On Honyaki, I am not using diamond stones but I use Namikawa stones that I shaped convex recently. Namikawa got two lines mostly Asahi and Tokkyu-in. Tokkyu in are harder stones. Kongo stones 180 ans 220 and good stones made of sic powder, I will be a little soft sometimes and when completly soaked behave too soft. Tokkyu in are corindon/aluminium oxyde I guess and they behave more consistently.
They also have 120 stones. If I remember, Hard is just too hard. Soft is very soft (too soft) but a grinding machine. Maybe it is best not to soak it and just add water to keep it as hard as possible.
On diamond stones, I am mostly using Venev those days and a bit NSK. NSK are great stones, just a little expensive and I keep them for critical work those days. Venev are great stones too, only difficulty is to make them cut sometimes. My best way is to use 36 grit sic powder on the surface of a granit. This will wake them up like if they drank a litter of coffee.
Thanks for the reply, again!

Noted the Namikaawa stones.
You are not kidding about the $$$ on the NSK stones.. (not that natural stones are cheap so I guess its fair)/
 
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Um... Are those the same 400 super vitrified BBB versions for sale or am I trippin?
 
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