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That’s depends on how much work do you need to do. As the rule of thumb (there are few caveats, but they should not apply to utility knife) start as coarse as you have available when doing major work. The less time you spend on any given stone its a win for you.I have a question about course stones and my Marine Mark 2 Utility knife (KaBar). My years of trying to sharpen it on much finer stones has never worked. The blade in not overly hard about HrC 58 but the blade is real thick. KaBar recoments a 40º inclusive. Is my GS500 course enough to reset the edge or should I start with something courser like a #320?
Unless that #320 is an extremely aggressive type (brazed diamond?) I would say it is still much too fine if "real thick" is like I am imagining. Something between #60 and #120 is where I would aim. BYXCO Manticore, 100 grit 3M Cubitron II paper, Zandstra FOSS coarse-side, etc. I don't think a KaBar by itself warrants diamond or cBN.I have a question about course stones and my Marine Mark 2 Utility knife (KaBar). My years of trying to sharpen it on much finer stones has never worked. The blade in not overly hard about HrC 58 but the blade is real thick. KaBar recoments a 40º inclusive. Is my GS500 course enough to reset the edge or should I start with something courser like a #320?
The Kongo-do No. 120 medium-hard from them has become my first step for major thinning. Basically a nice block of silicon carbide, not oil-soaked. It glazed with three strokes of the knife when new, but a heavy sidewalk session cured that.Kongo-do No.80 at the moment https://www.namikawa-ltd.com/product/42
but i want to try NSK or FSK as well
It really depends on the goals/application and budget. I like the JNS for their feedback, the size of the stone, the cutting, and the slurry management. They are good for sharpening and setting the geometry if starting a polishing progression.
But there are some negatives: one must avoid applying strong pressure on the 220 and use the entire surface of the stone as much as possible since it dishes rather fast. The NSK is much more expensive and more polishing-oriented. It's much harder and cuts faster, but the feedback is terrible, and you will need something to flatten it at some point. This is difficult with their dedicated flattener, which is not efficient enough (given the high price tag). Instead, it's better to get a hard silicon carbide dressing stone as a dressing/flattening stone.
I'm not sure I understand the goal of this first remark or whom it is addressed to... Is it a way to discredit those whose knowledge/experience is deemed insufficient to speak on the matter? What is certain is that I'm just a sharing user feedback.Valid points, but the issue is not with the stone rather it’s with a person who is attempting to use the stone with limited knowledge, practice, and concept of application.
Take a look at my videos here as some of those points are addressed there, and I will continue to make videos to address these issues.
https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&search_query=Reihamono
I’m also working on a video to help people understand the proper use and application for the nagura.
After that I’ll explain all of the relating concepts for the different flattening stones.
The main concept is that NSK stones have been developed to ensure that polishers and sharpeners have the opportunity for a variety of uses and applications from NSK stones which are 100% dependent upon ourselves.
Depending on the stone you use and how you prepare them and how you use them will greatly change the ability of application and end result as well.
Keep in mind the flattening plates are not just for flattening, but they also help with the surface preparation and that’s why they come in different grits and have different compositions and hardness or softness.
The Sic stone, nagura, and different flattening plates change how the surface of the stone feels and behaves.
Also, how the surface of the Sic stone, nagura, and flattening plates are prepared will change the effect of the stone when applied.
The NSK line is so varied that I have to ask which one you're referring to.It really depends on the goals/application and budget. I like the JNS for their feedback, the size of the stone, the cutting, and the slurry management. They are good for sharpening and setting the geometry if starting a polishing progression.
But there are some negatives: one must avoid applying strong pressure on the 220 and use the entire surface of the stone as much as possible since it dishes rather fast. The NSK is much more expensive and more polishing-oriented. It's much harder and cuts faster, but the feedback is terrible, and you will need something to flatten it at some point. This is difficult with their dedicated flattener, which is not efficient enough (given the high price tag). Instead, it's better to get a hard silicon carbide dressing stone as a dressing/flattening stone.
I'm not sure I understand the goal of this first remark or whom it is addressed to... Is it a way to discredit those whose knowledge/experience is deemed insufficient to speak on the matter? What is certain is that I'm just a sharing user feedback.
Your remarks are probably technically relevant, but they also highlight that these NSKs—which I readily acknowledge as high quality—are complex tools that require significant preparation to optimize their performance and that the complexity of this process is not really specified on the brand’s website.
In any case, in the context of polishing, they are excellent tools if one has the funds, knowledge and the motivation to explore the various possible combinations (between stones, SIC, flatteners, naguras etc.).
The NSK line is so varied that I have to ask which one you're referring to.
I've found the Hakuto (1) 800 grit to be a wonderful sharpening stone, comparable to the Naniwas but you get more thickness for your money -- the thin is considerably thicker than the Naniwa, though I'm not wearing out either any time soon. Very good feedback, within diamond resin-bonded stone standards.
The NSK 300 sold by JKI feels roughly like the 300 grit equivalent of that Hakuto. Good feedback, easy to manage, obvious merit here for heavy lifting.
The Oboro 200, well, I'm still trying to understand it. It's super-hard, and not forthcoming. I assume it's aimed at polishers, and does not seem to be a heavy lifting stone; more of a stone designed to mitigate the usual problem of diamond stones making rogue deep scratches that are hard to get out. I own it, so I WILL find a use for it. I'm thinking that it's restraint might make it a good primary sharpening stone for stainless, despite the nominal 200 grit, insanely coarse for sharpening activities, because it is so very unforthcoming. Mr. Hamono's comments could make perfect sense in the context of this unusual stone, and indeed the videos he linked seem to be aimed that way.
Is the JKI stone you mention their very expensive 300A?The NSK line is so varied that I have to ask which one you're referring to.
I've found the Hakuto (1) 800 grit to be a wonderful sharpening stone, comparable to the Naniwas but you get more thickness for your money -- the thin is considerably thicker than the Naniwa, though I'm not wearing out either any time soon. Very good feedback, within diamond resin-bonded stone standards.
The NSK 300 sold by JKI feels roughly like the 300 grit equivalent of that Hakuto. Good feedback, easy to manage, obvious merit here for heavy lifting.
The Oboro 200, well, I'm still trying to understand it. It's super-hard, and not forthcoming. I assume it's aimed at polishers, and does not seem to be a heavy lifting stone; more of a stone designed to mitigate the usual problem of diamond stones making rogue deep scratches that are hard to get out. I own it, so I WILL find a use for it. I'm thinking that it's restraint might make it a good primary sharpening stone for stainless, despite the nominal 200 grit, insanely coarse for sharpening activities, because it is so very unforthcoming. Mr. Hamono's comments could make perfect sense in the context of this unusual stone, and indeed the videos he linked seem to be aimed that way.
Thank you, I will do that.However, if you feel that your Oboro #200 is not fast enough and not providing proper feedback, you may consider my advanced stone surface preparation technique
Yes. It does come with an entire round flattening stone with handle; with the NSKs, I only got a small fragment, which is much harder to use. I think that flattening stone commands a pretty high price on its own.Is the JKI stone you mention their very expensive 300A?
Sure. In my comment, I was referring to the Oboro knife series. I find it is slightly harder than the Hakuto 1, especially the 200, which is supposedly dedicated to the "heavy lifting" (blade repairs, geometry setting etc. in my world).The NSK line is so varied that I have to ask which one you're referring to.
I've found the Hakuto (1) 800 grit to be a wonderful sharpening stone, comparable to the Naniwas but you get more thickness for your money -- the thin is considerably thicker than the Naniwa, though I'm not wearing out either any time soon. Very good feedback, within diamond resin-bonded stone standards.
The NSK 300 sold by JKI feels roughly like the 300 grit equivalent of that Hakuto. Good feedback, easy to manage, obvious merit here for heavy lifting.
The Oboro 200, well, I'm still trying to understand it. It's super-hard, and not forthcoming. I assume it's aimed at polishers, and does not seem to be a heavy lifting stone; more of a stone designed to mitigate the usual problem of diamond stones making rogue deep scratches that are hard to get out. I own it, so I WILL find a use for it. I'm thinking that it's restraint might make it a good primary sharpening stone for stainless, despite the nominal 200 grit, insanely coarse for sharpening activities, because it is so very unforthcoming. Mr. Hamono's comments could make perfect sense in the context of this unusual stone, and indeed the videos he linked seem to be aimed that way.
Got the same suntiger stones in 80 and 120 grit and yeah, they glaze like crazy so I’ll need to try a heavy sidewalk session.The Kongo-do No. 120 medium-hard from them has become my first step for major thinning. Basically a nice block of silicon carbide, not oil-soaked. It glazed with three strokes of the knife when new, but a heavy sidewalk session cured that.
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