Well firstly, you don't always need to go down to a low grit stone. That should be reserved for times when cutting in a new bevel is needed or when you want to make quick work of chip repair. For the most part the final grit will determine the final edge. Of course there can be exceptions. The idea is that as you move through the grit progression you refine the scratch marks from the previous grit stone with the current grit stone on and on until you get the edge as refined as you would like it. You can of course leave some of the previous scratch pattern on the edge before moving on to the next stone. This can result in different sized cutting teeth at the edge for more toothiness. I only ever do this on softer steels like German blades for example as I never take them higher than 1200 grit leaving them with an unrefined scratch pattern at the edge. I feel this helps retain some of that toothiness on these softer blades for a little bit longer. For harder steels like Japanese blades or American tool steel blades the final edge I leave depends on the blade style and what I will be cutting.
Most double bevel knives, deba and usuba I go up to 5k then I strop on felt loaded with 1 micron diamond for a scary edge with some bite and good retention. For yanagiba, takobiki etc I go up to about 12k and strop on felt loaded with .5 micron chromium oxide for a slippery sharp and smooth edge. For the most part the double bevel knives cut a myriad of products and are in hand the majority of the time and make a lot of board contact so they need a sharp toothy edge that can last. The single bevel slicers only ever cut raw protein, mostly fish and have little to no board contact so its ok if they are much more refined and smooth as they won't wear down as rapidly.
As for the burr the way I do it is this: once I feel the burr I flip it over and sharpen until it raises on the other side. I repeat this process using less and less effort on each side until I can flip the burr with one or two strokes. Then I move up to the next grit. I try to shrink the burr by using less effort and less pressure with each flip and weaken it by flipping it repeatedly until it snaps off like when bending a paper clip back and forth. When the burr is gone and the true apex of the edge is exposed you are basically done with the stones and now you can strop. Proper stropping will ensure you have removed any residual burr or wire edge and enhance your edge with the qualities you desire by using the different substrates and finishing sprays. Some people strop on dry stone. Some like balsa wood. I like loaded felt. Personal preference.
Anyway I've talked long enough and to be quite honest, I'm not to sure if I even answered your questions. Let me know if any of this helped or if you have any further questions.
