Wood glue recommendations on amazon?

[iandustries]

Looking to do a hot fix on this wa handle where the glue has lost its stickiness. Any easily available wood glues I can get on Amazon?

 

[MarcelNL]

titebond waterproof?

 

[gentiscid]

Tite bond 3 ultra

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

I'd use Gorilla epoxy and then light sanding. No matter what you use, the adhesive will seep out so tape accordingly and be prepared for it. You'll also need to clamp it.

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-epoxy/

 

[gentiscid]

With epoxy u will have to break the handle in case u decide to rehandle. Soft glue/wax is safer.

 

[Delat]

Is the little nubbin sticking out the dowel or tang? If it’s the tang then epoxy would be the best solution but not great due to lack of mating surface.

End-grain wood (the mating end of the loose piece of handle and at the spacers) is an extremely poor surface for wood glue and won’t hold for very long by itself. If the nubbin is a dowel then it provides side grain for wood glue contact with both the side of the dowel and the side of the matching hole in the loose handle piece, but both surfaces would have to be cleaned of old residue.

It’s hard to tell from the photo and I’m certainly no expert, but I suspect that handle was poorly constructed and relied on end-grain glued surfaces. The best permanent fix would be to pull the blade out, drill out and insert a fresh dowel, glue everything back up, then reseat the blade.

 

[captaincaed]

 

[Delat]

Cool video, thanks for sharing.

 

[Barmoley]

So funny to me because I don't know anything about gluing wood and never heard the end grain gluing myth. Yet, I assumed that end to end gluing would be stronger for the reasons discussed in the video. This is one of those cases where total ignorance can provide the correct solution, where most experts would be wrong. This is why scientific method should be applied even to phenomena that are very well known.

 

[esoo]

If you are dealing with carbon steel (as it look like), be aware the all the Titebonds are acidic.

 

[captaincaed]

Cool video, thanks for sharing.

Yeah it’s pretty recent and goes against every thing I learned for 20 years now. Rob Cosman has an interesting follow up if you want to go further down the rabbit hole.

 

[coxhaus]

We always used epoxy in the gun shop for rifle and shotgun stocks. We used the clear slow dry, so you had time to work. The clear was a honey color which blended in with the stock finish.

 

[JASinIL2006]

If you are dealing with carbon steel (as it look like), be aware the all the Titebonds are acidic.

Interesting... I wouldn't even have thought about that, but it is quite acidic with a pH of 2.5. I wonder if that is only true when it's in liquid form or if it remains acidic after it dries/cures?

 

[iandustries]

Thanks all for the feedback. Its actually an ashi 240mm swedish steel so titebonds could work. The black nub in the photo is indeed the end of the tang, and the lighter colored nub right at the end of it is dried up glue i believe.

So I think I can just use titebond to glue it back together, without having the tang involved.

I assume I would just wipe off the excess glue after, let it dry and I should be good?

 

[tostadas]

Is there no dowel holding the pieces together? So essentially it's just a bunch of slices of wood glued together at the ends?

I'd use epoxy, but remove the tang beforehand if you don't want it to be permanently glued into the handle. Prep the glue ends with some coarse sanding to rough it up for the adhesive to grab onto. Also I think @Delat has the right idea that redrilling and inserting a dowel to hold it together might be the best way to go (but if you do that, you might as well just make a brand new handle). And as others have mentioned, you will need to re-sand afterwards regardless of your choice of glue.

Another concern you will have to account for is how to hold the piece together to cure. It looks like the slices are at and angle rather than perpendicular to the main axis of the handle. So if you are clamping the piece together to cure, you will need a way to keep it from wanting to slide laterally. I suspect that it will not end up perfectly aligned at the joints, and you'll want to sand all of the facets smooth anyways.

 

[esoo]

Interesting... I wouldn't even have thought about that, but it is quite acidic with a pH of 2.5. I wonder if that is only true when it's in liquid form or if it remains acidic after it dries/cures?

It remains acidic after it cures. Had a problem with sayas...

 

[Justinv]

I believe that is a very flawed test shown in the video. Its movement in wood over time due to moisture changes that causes end grain joints to fail. Side grain joints don’t move much due to moisture changes. End grain joints do move with moisture changes, and wood exerts tremendous force when it expands. I have had pieces fail with no force applied but it took several years (titebond glue used). It should work better if a glue with some flex is used.

 

[captaincaed]

Wood generally doesn’t move much longitudinally. It swells perpendicular (orthogonal?) to the grain direction. In my mind, that leads to edge grain joints being subject to greater pressures. In practice, my edge grain cutting boards will cup when sitting in moisture. But they don’t get longer. A door will fit tighter or looser in the frame depending on season, but I don’t see them rub on the floor depending on season.

I will say I don’t see many practical applications for end grain joints, but it’s nice to know they’re pretty strong when you make them.

24:42 for destructive testing