Woodworkers/board-makers please diagnose my board

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Esteemed craftsmen of KKF:

I recently got an end grain walnut board and I have some questions about an apparent defect in the back right corner, which is either a natural defect in the wood, itself, or else an issue with the workmanship (radiusing and sanding).

To start off, here is the general appearance of the board:

1 - board general 1.jpg


2 - board general 2.jpg


As a baseline for comparison, here is the front right corner, which does not have a defect:

3 - board - FRC Comparison.jpg


You can see that the edges leading up to the corner are chamfered, and that the corner is chamfered/radiused a little more aggressively, probably to prevent a sharp corner from being a magnet for damage.

Here is another shot of the front right corner for comparison's sake. Again, you can see the chamfering on the edges leading up to the corner, and the way that the corner is radiused:

4 - board - FLC Comparison.jpg


Okay with the comparison shots out of the way, here is a shot of the back right corner, which is where I see the issue:

5 - BRC - defect 1.jpg


I don't know exactly how to classify what I'm seeing. It looks like either there was some sort of depression or defect in the wood that took it beyond the plane of whatever they used to chamfer the edge, or else it was radiused too aggressively. You can also see that the grain is a lot rougher and more "open" in the depression, either because it is an area where the wood was of lesser quality, or else because the depression prevented that section from being sanded and finished in the same manner as the rest of the board.

Here are some additional shots of the defect from various perspectives:

6 - BRC - defect 2.jpg


7 - BRC - defect 3.jpg


8 - BRC - defect 4.jpg


And finally, here is a close up of the grain in the depression:

9 - Grain at Defect.jpg


Based on all that, here are my questions:

1) What do you think happened here? Is this the result of a natural defect in the wood that escaped notice? Or does this appear more to be the result of over-radiusing?

2) In either case, is this liable to worsen such that this should be considered a non-cosmetic defect? Or is this just a cosmetic issue?

3) Is it a functional problem that the grain is different in that area? Or could I merely "spot" sand to even out the grain/finish?

Bottom line, I am trying to determine how to characterize this issue in terms of natural defect or workmanship, and whether the issue is functional or just cosmetic. If it's just cosmetic, I'll probably just sand that spot and keep as is, because it is pretty minor and located at a spot that doesn't affect usage. Chalk it up to some rustic wabi sabi character. Also, I don't want to deal with shipping it back unless it's a functional issue.

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Like others said it’s a defect from being too aggressive with sanding/belt. Probably guy had the wrong grit orbital disc on it and realized lol. It is purely cosmetic and will not affect functionality or the future of the board. I like flaws like this that add character to stuff. Makes them unique lol. That’s a huge board! Enjoy! It should outlive you if u take care of it.

Edit: as long as it sits dead flat (not warped) or badly glued with tiny spaces, I wouldn’t worry.
 
Like others said it’s a defect from being too aggressive with sanding/belt. Probably guy had the wrong grit orbital disc on it and realized lol. It is purely cosmetic and will not affect functionality or the future of the board. I like flaws like this that add character to stuff. Makes them unique lol. That’s a huge board! Enjoy! It should outlive you if u take care of it.

Edit: as long as it sits dead flat (not warped) or badly glued with tiny spaces, I wouldn’t worry.

Ya know it was actually a really good deal for a walnut end grain 14x20x1.5 with side grips and feet, discounted at $261.00. I thought it was just a sale but maybe this was classified as a "second" and I just missed it. 🤔 I agree it doesn't look bad at all and does actually add some charm. So if it's not functional in any way then I'm happy!

As for your additional comment, board is perfectly flat/straight and the joints are really tight. Good glue up, no spaces. Good stuff!
 
My guess would be tear-out from where the board was run through a thickness planer or drum sander, and they just sanded it smooth and left it. Personally, I would have trimmed that side of the board another 1/8" or 1/4" to remove it, and then re-radiused the edge, but it won't hurt anything as is.
 
My guess would be tear-out from where the board was run through a thickness planer or drum sander, and they just sanded it smooth and left it. Personally, I would have trimmed that side of the board another 1/8" or 1/4" to remove it, and then re-radiused the edge, but it won't hurt anything as is.
Ah so a chunk got ripped out by a previous tool and then they just smoothed it out and called it good?
 
So if it's not functional in any way then I'm happy!

As for your additional comment, board is perfectly flat/straight and the joints are really tight. Good glue up, no spaces. Good stuff!

Give it a SPA with mineral oil/beeswax blend once a month and after a while it will be waterproof. Even a drop of wine will stay as a drop on it.
 
Ah so a chunk got ripped out by a previous tool and then they just smoothed it out and called it good?

That's my guess. It's also possible that someone just got a bit aggressive with sander. I guessed tear-out because engrain boards are really susceptible to that when run through surfacing machines. I glue a sacrificial piece of wood to the edge of mine when I'm making one to avoid that very problem.
 
Any $10 mineral oil/beeswax. Both are food-safe. Mineral oil is inert and that’s why it's used as a laxative and sold at laxatives aisle, it helps lubricate bowels without interacting with cells or fecal material. Beeswax if it's pure beeswax (non cosmetic grade), it's food-safe.

U can also make your blend, get some beeswax chunks from any beekeepers on the marketplace, or pellets, or buy honey with honeycomb and separate them in Bain-Marie. Mix in 3 parts oil and one part beeswax in Bain-marie. Pour in silicone molds and let it solidify. I used to make my blend with shortening and beeswax for cast iron. Same thing with boards.
 
That's tear-out that was sanded. Happens to wood, natural product and all. Unlikely it was operator error. It just happens sometimes.

Edit: the tell is the fibers missing. Sanding those all the way out removes even more wood. I'm sure the shop uses very standard tooling. The likelihood of someone "going wild with a sander" is low.

Stunning board, enjoy the hell out of it!
 
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If it really bugs you then you could sand the problem side. The block arrangement over the entire board is not symmetrical so taking a few mm's off one side is not going to show.
 
If it really bugs you then you could sand the problem side. The block arrangement over the entire board is not symmetrical so taking a few mm's off one side is not going to show.
Thanks. It doesn't bug me as long as it's not functional, which it seems not to be. I got it pretty discounted and I'm guessing it was probably because of the tear-out even though I don't think it was explicitly identified as a "second."
 
Can't beat a nice bit of figured walnut. Your's has some nice annular ring action. The mineral oil will really bring that out a treat.
 
Another theory- the board got dropped on floor on that corner and hence the dent (dont ask me how do I know..). Give it a good oil bath as recommended above, it should be just a minor looking thing.
And.. paging expert @OwlWoodworks
 
Another theory- the board got dropped on floor on that corner and hence the dent (dont ask me how do I know..). Give it a good oil bath as recommended above, it should be just a minor looking thing.
And.. paging expert @OwlWoodworks
Possible of course, but I would expect a lot more damage/tearing to the grain and a compression of the bevel.
 
yeah I'm gonna do some mineral oil coats for the next few days and then switch to an oil/wax blend. Alternatively, I was thinking of a food safe hardwax oil like Osmo TopOil: https://www.amazon.com/Osmo-TopOil-Clear-Satin-Liter/dp/B07D5LDVFJ
I coat the hell out of my boards with mineral oil for initial "seasoning" and once they stop being so thirsty (about 3 days of reapplication) I switch to Boos Mystery Oil. You're paying brand name tax for sure, but I do like the blend. It's got some waxy things in it that help leave a surface protective finish. Once that's set in overnight I just use those deodorant sticks of oil/beeswax to cover the board and give me that waxy coating so juices just sit on top.

https://teakhaus.com/products/natural-board-seasoning-stick-810996011023

Once the board is properly seasoned and all, I probably do a mystery oil application once a month? And a light wax 2 or 3 times a month depending on use and cleaning. I like the sticks better than Boos cream since it is more waxy and less condition-y.
 
Oh interesting. Definitely hard to tell but I can give you my thoughts. First and most importantly, it is definitely cosmetic so you have absolutely nothing to worry about from a functionality point of view. Also because the imperfection is perpendicular to the grain of the wood, it also isn’t natural. If it were the live edge of the wood, you would also see the lighter sapwood present.

For what it is, I’d say it’s a toss up between somebody not holding the sander flat and over sanding that part, or tear out from either the maker planing the piece, or from when the mill, milled the log into boards.

If you really wanted to know which, best bet would be to see if you can spot sanding marks on the surface. If you can, it was either over sanded, or it was tear out that they sanded to smooth out which would be pretty surprising to me. As others have mentioned, you just trim the board an 1/8” and reprofile. Wouldn’t take more than a couple minutes of effort.

If there are no sanding marks and the grain feels a little rougher, I think it’s safe to say it is planer tear out from either the maker or the mill. It also makes sense it would be found here because larger tear out always occurs at the end of the board, and the end of the board usually makes up one of the outside edges of the cutting board. I took a stroll out to the shop and pulled some walnut down to show you what this can look like in raw lumber form. It is absolutely possible that this was present and they either didn’t care, or missed it.

So yea, my thoughts are it is definitely cosmetic, and it will either have sand marks meaning it was an accident, or an acknowledged fault which they just decided to sand. Or it is rough grain, and it was tear out that they missed or ignored. No matter what, for $261, you won.

IMG_3328.jpeg
IMG_3329.jpeg
 
Oh interesting. Definitely hard to tell but I can give you my thoughts. First and most importantly, it is definitely cosmetic so you have absolutely nothing to worry about from a functionality point of view. Also because the imperfection is perpendicular to the grain of the wood, it also isn’t natural. If it were the live edge of the wood, you would also see the lighter sapwood present.

For what it is, I’d say it’s a toss up between somebody not holding the sander flat and over sanding that part, or tear out from either the maker planing the piece, or from when the mill, milled the log into boards.

If you really wanted to know which, best bet would be to see if you can spot sanding marks on the surface. If you can, it was either over sanded, or it was tear out that they sanded to smooth out which would be pretty surprising to me. As others have mentioned, you just trim the board an 1/8” and reprofile. Wouldn’t take more than a couple minutes of effort.

If there are no sanding marks and the grain feels a little rougher, I think it’s safe to say it is planer tear out from either the maker or the mill. It also makes sense it would be found here because larger tear out always occurs at the end of the board, and the end of the board usually makes up one of the outside edges of the cutting board. I took a stroll out to the shop and pulled some walnut down to show you what this can look like in raw lumber form. It is absolutely possible that this was present and they either didn’t care, or missed it.

So yea, my thoughts are it is definitely cosmetic, and it will either have sand marks meaning it was an accident, or an acknowledged fault which they just decided to sand. Or it is rough grain, and it was tear out that they missed or ignored. No matter what, for $261, you won.

View attachment 305640View attachment 305641

You're the man, Luke! Thanks so much for your detailed thoughts and the photo examples. Appreciate the reassurance, as well.
 
Oh interesting. Definitely hard to tell but I can give you my thoughts. First and most importantly, it is definitely cosmetic so you have absolutely nothing to worry about from a functionality point of view. Also because the imperfection is perpendicular to the grain of the wood, it also isn’t natural. If it were the live edge of the wood, you would also see the lighter sapwood present.

For what it is, I’d say it’s a toss up between somebody not holding the sander flat and over sanding that part, or tear out from either the maker planing the piece, or from when the mill, milled the log into boards.

If you really wanted to know which, best bet would be to see if you can spot sanding marks on the surface. If you can, it was either over sanded, or it was tear out that they sanded to smooth out which would be pretty surprising to me. As others have mentioned, you just trim the board an 1/8” and reprofile. Wouldn’t take more than a couple minutes of effort.

If there are no sanding marks and the grain feels a little rougher, I think it’s safe to say it is planer tear out from either the maker or the mill. It also makes sense it would be found here because larger tear out always occurs at the end of the board, and the end of the board usually makes up one of the outside edges of the cutting board. I took a stroll out to the shop and pulled some walnut down to show you what this can look like in raw lumber form. It is absolutely possible that this was present and they either didn’t care, or missed it.

So yea, my thoughts are it is definitely cosmetic, and it will either have sand marks meaning it was an accident, or an acknowledged fault which they just decided to sand. Or it is rough grain, and it was tear out that they missed or ignored. No matter what, for $261, you won.

View attachment 305640View attachment 305641
The example is classic.
Curious- how would you handle this part?
 
The example is classic.
Curious- how would you handle this part?
From a maker point of view I would just not be using the damaged part of the wood. 😅 Which seems insane to me that anybody would let something like this slip by any kind of quality control or final check they have. Like it’s super minor, but also super easy to fix before sending it out.

From a user point of view, I would just bask in the joy of having paid $261 for a board where this is the only flaw. My boards are expensive of course, but I know what walnut costs, and I know the work that went into this and at $261, the profit margin was slim to non existent. This board was an awesome deal.

If you wanted to fix it, you need to take a sliver off of the entire edge of the board, re profile, re sand and refinish. Which is a “juice isn’t worth the squeeze” kind of situation for me.
 
From a maker point of view I would just not be using the damaged part of the wood. 😅 Which seems insane to me that anybody would let something like this slip by any kind of quality control or final check they have. Like it’s super minor, but also super easy to fix before sending it out.

I think there is a good chance that the discount means that this board was intended to be sold as a second, and that it either didn't make its way to the listing or else I missed it. I sent the maker a note to ask about the tear-out/possible sanding error so we'll see what he says. Regardless, I'm ready to oil this baby up and get cutting! 🤘
 
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