Worth fixing if possible?

[Seffers93]

Long time no see friends. Have a quick question in regards to sanding too deep on a hidden tang handle. I use the “dowel method” and it appears I need to size down as this has happened twice now.

Sanded too deep and the epoxy/dowel is showing underneath.The first time this happened, I tried digging out the area and filling it with an epoxy/same-colored-dust mix and ruined it more.

Any better ways to attempt a fix or do you all just start over if this happens? I’m hoping I can save the ferrule… last piece of African Blackwood. What a face palm

 

[Taz575]

I would start it over. What size dowel are you using?

 

[Seffers93]

I would start it over. What size dowel are you using?

1/2”. I think I have some smaller dowel laying around. Might have to start using it. My drill press platform also tilts slightly when pressure is applied so I never know if I’m actually drilling straight down lol

 

[Taz575]

Ok, that could be it. I have a pen drilling vise that helps hold the pieces vertical. I found spade bits did better than twist drills and used a 3/8" dowel IIRC?

 

[Seffers93]

Ok, that could be it. I have a pen drilling vise that helps hold the pieces vertical. I found spade bits did better than twist drills and used a 3/8" dowel IIRC?

Ah, that’s good to know. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Taz575]

https://www.amazon.com/Blank-Center...t=&hvlocphy=9003330&hvtargid=pla-569486349011
Something like this

 

[cotedupy]

Long time no see friends. Have a quick question in regards to sanding too deep on a hidden tang handle. I use the “dowel method” and it appears I need to size down as this has happened twice now.

Sanded too deep and the epoxy/dowel is showing underneath.The first time this happened, I tried digging out the area and filling it with an epoxy/same-colored-dust mix and ruined it more.

Any better ways to attempt a fix or do you all just start over if this happens? I’m hoping I can save the ferrule… last piece of African Blackwood. What a face palm

There isn't really a particularly good way to sort this unfortunately no. If you were using incredibly dark, or very featured wood, you can get away with it being basically invisible if you're using clear set epoxy. But on something like that it's always going to show.

If you have very small blemishes that you want to try the sawdust thing with - I understand CA glue is better for that than epoxy. Though digging out epoxy to do it won't ever be neat.

 

[birdsfan]

I have done that before......and ended up starting over. i did it on a handle for one of my own knives, so would have definitely started over if it was for someone else. As stated by my friend down under, I have found CA glue easier to use for patch work than epoxy, mostly because it sets quickly.

As for general construction, I had read in one of the handle construction threads on here that 7/16" seemed to be generally less prone to failure (splits, etc) than 1/2". I looked for the thread before posting this and couldnt find it. As I recall, the statement was posted by someone who has some longstanding experience doing handle builds so I took it to heart.

I also use a vise to hold my blanks vertically while drilling, but that only works when the platform is sturdy. Perhaps you could shim, or use a clamp to reinforce the position of the drill press platform to keep it from moving a bit?

 

[Dave Martell]

This problem sucks so I came up with this solution that works for me...

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/wa-handle-construction-martell-knives.49715/

 

[Bensbites]

To follow up on taz’s advice. I default to 1/2 in drill bits and dowels. Using a sharp drill bit also makes a huge difference. A drill doctor will pay for itself pretty quickly. I like to use a self centering vice when I can.

 

[Seffers93]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Dave, that’s an interesting method. I can definitely see how that solves a lot of issues. Thanks for sharing!