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WTS Y Tanaka AS, Hatsukokoro Shinkiro

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Toyama Damascus Gyuto
240 x 54
266g
Blue 2 steel
Used this a few times. Note a few things:
- I've refinished this with sandpaper to a near mirror and brought back some contrast with stone dust. It was a very subtle damascus look. I also thinned the cladding at the tip, and rounded the choil for a righty (note the grind is very righty biased so I would not recommend this for a lefty ever). I did a quick onceover with fine sandpaper but some patina marks remain. Note the semi-mirror polish is nowhere close to perfect.
- the included ebony handle has a metal ring, but the metal ring protrudes a fair bit, and actually moves around easily. It feels okay if you push it to one side, but it's very far from perfect. I will include the original ho wood handle.
- pics in next post.
Price: 500 (prev 550)


Goh Umanosuke Yoshihiro (Y Tanaka Aogami Super with iron cladding) (comes with saya)
159g
230x50
Balance 1cm behind S
2.3 2.1
Price: 600 (prev 650)
This is from Zahocho (see Goh Umanosuke Yoshihiro x Yoshikazu Tanaka AS gyuto 240mm). Only Y Tanaka AS "laser" i've seen so far (in terms of spine thickness)
Notes: I gave this a complete spa. I replaced the rough ho wood handle with a Taihei zebrawood handle, and the finishing had some deep scratches and it wasn't as thin BTE as some of my other knives, so I thinned it, muted the heel, and repolished it (removing the deep scratches) and gave it a full kasumi. In the process, I lost the very shallow kanji on the front. The profile is more of a subtle radius. IMO it's way better in every way than stock in every way other than loss of kanji. The lighting in the photo is harsh to show the scratches, but they are very shallow actually.

Hatsukokoro Shinkiro Aogami super damascus gyuto
214g
217 47
4.6 2.4
1cm in front of heel
Handle is ebony
Price: 225 (prev 250)


Tojiro DP western deba
240 53
435g (no typo)
4.7 4.7
Balance Between DP and Kanji
Price: 100
 

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Last edited:
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That's a steal. The Tojiro 240 yo deba is a ton of fun.
 
I thinned it on coarse stones and removed the scratches with stones. I got up to maybe a SG500 with stones but my arm started to hurt and I was getting tired so I switched to sandpaper. I took it to maybe 2000 or 3000 with alternating scratch patterns, then used kasumi powder. It probably wouldn't be too hard to do a full stone polish on it but I'm not sure if the sandpaper changed that.
 
I thinned it on coarse stones and removed the scratches with stones. I got up to maybe a SG500 with stones but my arm started to hurt and I was getting tired so I switched to sandpaper. I took it to maybe 2000 or 3000 with alternating scratch patterns, then used kasumi powder. It probably wouldn't be too hard to do a full stone polish on it but I'm not sure if the sandpaper changed that.
How far up behind the edge did the thinning go? Was it for the full length of the blade, or just like the front 1/3? What's the current geometry of the blade after thinning on left and right sides (ie, consistent convex both sides, some concavity, flat in certain areas, left/right bias)? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to get a better understanding of the overall blade. Thanks!
 
Maybe halfway up the blade? There is a short of natural point where the grind goes up to, and yes, full length of the blade thinned evenly, and I checked with calipers to make the sure it's thin on the whole blade. It was marketed as a symmetrical grind, but I feel like it was righty biased stock. I didn't really attempt to change this, but both sides seem more similar now in terms of convexity, where this is a slight convexity that I did via Jon's blending method. But it may still be mounted in a way that is righty biased.
 
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