#700 stone needed for #1000 Cerax progression?

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Hi! I've been sharpening since I was 14 on a cheap 320 stone and a new cerax #1000, and looking to replace the #320 stone and add a Rika 5K.

I have a Yoshikane SKD Gyuto and a Nobuhisa Nakiri made of some carbon steel that I want to add the Rika for, as well as get stones for sharpening the cheap stainless knives at home as well as thin the carbon steels.

Any recommendations for the #320 Stone?
I'm looking at the 320 Cerax since I permasoak my stones, and wondering if the #700 Cerax would benefit me at all.

My planned progressions:
Carbon steels: #1000 cerax -> #5k Rika
Stainless: #320 cerax -> #700 cerax? -> #1000 cerax

Thanks for the help!
 
Cerax 320: wears pretty fast needs to be flattened regularly, would not be my choice for thinning unless we’re talking very mild thinning, does a good job of cleaning up scratches from lower grits after thinning, on the inexpensive side can be permasoaked. Works fine for edge sharpening stainless.

gesshin 400: good alternative to the cerax 320. Cost more, can be permasoaked, good at cleaning up low grit thinning scratches, wears much slower but loads swarf so you’ll need to dress the stone more. Very quick for stainless edge sharpening.

If you’re on a budget I think Cerax 320 is just fine. I’m on either my second or third, can’t remember. I like it for what it is.
 
I do a 400 King -> SG1k no issues. Don't think a intermediary stone is really needed.

For the Yoshi- I'd almost recommend the Ouka over the Rika. More bite, and for touchups, you can 1 stone it...
 
DoYoon Kim said:
I do a 400 King
Click to expand...
This is the first I've ever heard of this stone. Mind me asking what are your thoughts on it? I've used the king 300 quite a bit, which seems to cut a bit finer than 300, is the 400 a similar? Is that guy also a mostly splash a go on the harder side too?
 
JustAnotherJoe said:
This is the first I've ever heard of this stone. Mind me asking what are your thoughts on it? I've used the king 300 quite a bit, which seems to cut a bit finer than 300, is the 400 a similar? Is that guy also a mostly splash a go on the harder side too?
Click to expand...
Sure - it is splash and go. My main use for this is a travel stone. It definitely cuts finer than a 400 grit (I've used a Naniwa pro 400 and Bester 400 so far at this range). It cuts much closer to my Synthetic Aoto 600, but much harder and slower wearing (but definitely doesn't cut as fast).

It takes a little time to get going so I do a quick diamond flattening (no more than 2~4 passes to get the slurry going). Because its so hard (and low cost), for me it made a great X50CrMoV15 cutter that I can bring places stress free. I can do light thinning's with it on the spot (takes me about 30 min ish), and buff it out with 320 grit sandpaper + flitz to do a not horrible migaki finish.

I will say if you want to spend a little more go for a SG500, but i got this king in a bundle... probs cost me 20 bucks. Totally worth for that.
 
Thanks everyone! This forum is always super helpful :)

I'll take the advice and go with the Ouka over the Rika, and just grab the #320 Cerax without an intermediary!

The Gesshin #400 looks great but just isnt as practical for importing where I live.
 
I can't speak to Cerax but I've got a Shapton Pro 320 that has treated me well. I use it to rehab my stepmom's mangled knives every 6 months or so and it's good for edge repair and light thinning. Releases quite a bit of mud as just a splash and go and that ups the aggression kinda soft though, but I also don't have a bunch of coarse stones to compare. I do a SP 320 to Shapton Glass 1k jump for all my family's knives, either German stainless or Chinese mystery "VG-10" and they come out nicely. There's enough tooth to last for a while on softer steels without just being a saw blade.

That said I recently got a Shapton Glass 120 and really liked the intentionally toothy edges I put on some smaller knives of my own. 2 cheap stainless Kuhn Rikon paring and a Shun Premier paring. It's hard, it feels pretty good for how coarse it is, it is definitely faster for thinning, and I was quite happy with just the edges from that tbh. Finished on a SG 1K just to refine a bit more. Definitely a superior thinning stone to my 320 but the edge was a very pleasant surprise.
 
I have a Cerax 320 I use for thinning and for the initial passes on my wife's abused Globals. Depending on the knife I may use a Cerax 700 (#707) or jump straight to Cerax 1000 (#1010). I finish my Japanese knives on an Ouka 3000. I like the bite it leaves and it also can lightly polish the primary bevel.
 
As others have said - if it's a toss up between the Ouka and the Rika, then take the Ouka. Both are good, but the Ouka best in class.

You don't have to, but I personally would put a stone between a 320 and 1k Cerax. Cerax 700 would work, but the King 800 is better and cheaper. Everybody owes it to themselves to have a King 800, it is an extraordinarily good stone!
 
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