Blank blades WIP Thread.

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This piece of 4v is 2.4 inches tall. Are you people happy now? 😢😭
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Also. Got this fancy pants phase 2 test block so i can make sure my hrc tester is dialed in.

It came with its own test blocks but these were recommended to me (also wilson, im sure mitatoyo, and starrett are also good).

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I think this is the shape.

I mean, i need to do heat treat coupons anyway, but man thats a lot of steel than needs cut off.

I guess its more stuff to run extra temps to test the ht with. But still. It
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(Maybe not the exact profile, but at least a guideline that seems ok)
 
Cut out, and roughly shaped. Things might change slightly as i go, but it should end up something like this.
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Im out of stainless foil, and im sure my liquid nitrogen dewar is empty. So idk. Ill have to get things figured out before i can heat treat.

If i didnt have to drop that 200 on a new drill press it probably would have helped out a ton.
 
Cut out, and roughly shaped. Things might change slightly as i go, but it should end up something like this. View attachment 270551

Im out of stainless foil, and im sure my liquid nitrogen dewar is empty. So idk. Ill have to get things figured out before i can heat treat.

If i didnt have to drop that 200 on a new drill press it probably would have helped out a ton.
You know.

Even though i end up having plenty of setbacks. Things always end up working out. I should just try to remember that. When i end up running into issues.
 
Yeah, that's what I meant. Everyone wants thin and thin behind the edge, but also thicker spine especially where you grip and a stiff blade over all. Pure lasers are just not fashionable around here. This is why distal taper is so popular, thick spine and choil for comfort and thinner toward the tip for lasery performance. Done well this works, even though sometimes I think we concentrate too much on this and disregard perfectly good knives with thinner spines and thinner overall stock.
Agree with this if it is crowd suggestions or just folks on this particular forum knowing what they like, having tried multiple high end knives.
 
How much more belts do you go through getting that grind on K390?

I've had the JKI 1K diamond stone for years now. Have used it quite a bit for different blades. Got the 6K JKI diamond because wanted to see how sharp could get K390 spyderco. Knocked the shoulders off the V grind ended up getting it much sharper than out of the box. Edge retention is excellent.
 
Well. After doing some. Coupons, and working out temps. I definitely think I reached my goal of dialing in high hrc 52100.
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Only thing is before the quench on this knife it was about 260mm of edge. Now its under 210. Because of a crack.

I still think im going to finish this one. Because i might as well.

Plus would wouldnt want a little 66.5-67 hrc 52100 knife?
 
Agree with this if it is crowd suggestions or just folks on this particular forum knowing what they like, having tried multiple high end knives.
I just think at that point people might as well ask me for custom pieces. Since it wont end up costing more. At least for the labor to do them to get a custom, rather than just one of the one off knives I put out.

It also would allow me to make purchases that would be slightly bigger risks for materials.

Like for some of these steels, finding pieces that are tall enough, and thick enough can be at the very least expensive, and potentially hard to source. So having someone put down some money ahead of time knowing exactly what they want so i can try to source the material for that, would cut out a lot of the parts that keep me from doing that kind of knife.
 
How much more belts do you go through getting that grind on K390?

I've had the JKI 1K diamond stone for years now. Have used it quite a bit for different blades. Got the 6K JKI diamond because wanted to see how sharp could get K390 spyderco. Knocked the shoulders off the V grind ended up getting it much sharper than out of the box. Edge retention is excellent.
For k390. Idk.

I mean, I do thin behind grinds on everything. So i dont exactly have a point of comparison. As to how many belts it would take if i stopped at 25 thousandths like spyderco does.

My guess is it probably ends up eating up at least a couple more belts per knife. Give or take
 
Well this is probably the first knife thats a failure, that I'm still kind of proud of, and am going to finish even though it isnt going to be possible to sell.

I still am working on the bevels, and the shinogi. But this gives the idea of what it was going to be. Obviously ill post a pick after i get it polished at the end also.
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Was going to be wrought iron clad wolfram special (65-66hrc)

But i ended up with a delam on the other side.
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You can see them by the spot where there are still a few grind marks. I think it would end up having some corrosion issues for whoever ended up with it.

Also you can see the cladding gets a bit high on that side. Mostly because i ended up trying to get it forged welded up to attempt to save it. If it was just the cladding line being a little high and that kinda think it would be no big deal.


After putting in all the work of the past few months, on idk how many at this point, hand forged san mai knife attempts. Only to have this happen quite a few times. I have decided I'm not going to be forging anything else until i can make a forge press. Besides some 52100 i have coming i want to make an integral with.

I just end up wasting so much time, effort and material trying to get. This stuff done completely by hand. At least using wrought iron.

My experience using mild steel so far, it seems like i might have had better luck if i had just done that.
 
Working on this big boi gyuto.

Last i measured, it was 250mm x 60mmish, cpm 4v, at 66.5-67 hrc. (The average score is 66.8).

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Just got it ground thin enough to give it a test sharpen. And i really like it. Took a very clean edge, without a ton of effort. I think high hrc 4v might still have a place in the post magnacut world. Like if you are going higher than 65. Magnacut just cant get up that high.

Also working on an integral, in 52100. Got it forged, and heat treated already. Just need to get a little bit of a warp out and grind it.

I think these are the only two i'll be dropping this batch. Maybe the next one I'll try doing 3-5 like the last one.
 
I dont think im even gonna bother trying to polish this one up anymore. Since im keeping it for myself the flaw are fine.

And you can see the little bend in the tip from me dropping it into the etch tank when i went to clean off some surface rust from the hira after thinning.
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Alright. I think im done grinding. Onto polishing. Cut a carrot, it still cracked just a tiny bit but for workhorsish stuff this is pretty good. It should do even better after im done with stone work.
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Finished up a couple rehandles i did for someone tonight.

Heres one of them

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The one i did first is all wrapped up right now. But maybe i can dig a pic up from when i finished it.

Also for the hell of it, i polished the delam wrought iron knife a little more, and brought out more detail and contrast.
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A real shame. It would have been a cool knife.
 
And because i saw the delamination at the last minute, and i tried to save it, i ended up smashing the cladding down thinner on this side trying to. To no avail.
From a maker perspective the delamination issue is disturbing, but from the end user perspective it's still a piece of hardened steel that is sharp on one side. And that sharpened side still cuts.
If delamination continue to bother you, then why not just grind cladding away? You'll get a really thin laser like knife in the end (which isn't something bad)
 
From a maker perspective the delamination issue is disturbing, but from the end user perspective it's still a piece of hardened steel that is sharp on one side. And that sharpened side still cuts.
If delamination continue to bother you, then why not just grind cladding away? You'll get a really thin laser like knife in the end (which isn't something bad)
The knife would be so thin at that point it would be nearly unusable.

It would be very flexible, and not really a good knife at that point imo. Probably wouldnt have enough thickness to allow food release also, so stuff like potatoes would stick to it like suction cups.

The concern from the end users perspective if i was to sell it still. Is that it will get moisture between the cladding and core where the delamination is, and rust from the inside out over time.
 
Anyway here are some. Finished pictures of the wrought iron delam knife. Did a quick handle out of water oak from my yard, and deer antler.

Did different angles, because depending on what angle you look at it different details pop out in the cladding
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Alright last time I'll spam a bunch of pics of this knife.

But i went ahead and polished it up on my uchigumori koppa, then used some flitz after that. And though it still has some scratches, for what it is I'm happy enough with it.

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also. I tried playing with different lighting to see what would show it the best.
 
Alright last time I'll spam a bunch of pics of this knife.

But i went ahead and polished it up on my uchigumori koppa, then used some flitz after that. And though it still has some scratches, for what it is I'm happy enough with it.

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also. I tried playing with different lighting to see what would show it the best.

(decided to try to do it in 2 posts because it seemed to have issues doing that many photos)
 
Ordered a tall piece of A2, and a tall piece of m2.


Should make some nice kitchen knives. That i can charge a little less for than the high wear resistance pm alloys. But as far as ingot steels go, those two are probably the best of them imho. A2 is skd12 (or sld12 i can never remember) for anyone who doesnt know. And m2 is a high speed steel, pretty similar to hap 40 I would say. Just not powder metallurgy. And it has probably the best properties of any of the non pm high alloy stuff that I know of, as far as wear resistance/toughness balance.

And now that I have my rockwell tester I can do coupons and get my ht really dialed in for them. I ordered the thickest tallest stock i could so 2.5ish inches tall for both, and i think i was able to get thicker stock for the a2 than the m2 in that height.
 
Ordered a tall piece of A2, and a tall piece of m2.


Should make some nice kitchen knives. That i can charge a little less for than the high wear resistance pm alloys. But as far as ingot steels go, those two are probably the best of them imho. A2 is skd12 (or sld12 i can never remember) for anyone who doesnt know. And m2 is a high speed steel, pretty similar to hap 40 I would say. Just not powder metallurgy. And it has probably the best properties of any of the non pm high alloy stuff that I know of, as far as wear resistance/toughness balance.

And now that I have my rockwell tester I can do coupons and get my ht really dialed in for them. I ordered the thickest tallest stock i could so 2.5ish inches tall for both, and i think i was able to get thicker stock for the a2 than the m2 in that height.
Whoops lol. I lied. I forgot i was going to get the a2, then for whatever reason, i decided not to, i think they just didnt have the size I wanted or something.

What I did end up ordering was 1/4 thick cruforge-v. Idk how I completely blanked on that. I've considered getting that in the past plenty of times, and for whatever reason didnt end up getting it. But finally pulled the trigger.

I was working earlier when I typed that, so I must have just not really thinking about it, because I went back and looked at the order confirmation and it dawned on me.
 
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