Coarse stone

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Even bought a leather belt for my Kalamazoo 1x42

The Shapton pro 2k is a great touchup stone for all kinds of knives. It is very dish resistant a true S&G.

Whatever works for your progression. My quality knives use gesshin soakers. Talking about the chosera 400 versatility, another stone like that on the higher end is the gesshin 4K. It an be used as a stand alone on well trained knives.
 
I use naniwa 220. I have two of them so I even them one on each other. Never used diamond plate. I use it to flatten all other stones. I find it hard with no particles poisoning to other stones. I jump from it right to AI1000. I tend to think these days its too big of a jump.
 
I use naniwa 220. I have two of them so I even them one on each other. Never used diamond plate. I use it to flatten all other stones. I find it hard with no particles poisoning to other stones. I jump from it right to AI1000. I tend to think these days its too big of a jump.
The expensive naniwa 220?
 
Great idea Peter! Are the two somehow flat afterward or you get two convex stones? How often do you lap them or how concave before you lap them, just curious?

...[H]ave two of them so I even them one on each other....
 
Why they vould be conwex afterwards.
Afterwards they are true as my conscious. And I give them round after every session of using them. I dont like to push my stones to a visibly changed state. I got them for two years and they hold tight. Not much material removed max 1-3% few mm.

I have this method from shinichi. It works great
 
I find that one can indeed jump from the 220 (I use the pink brick from Bester) to AI1000 (a.k.a. Shapton Pro 1k) when working on the edge. On bevels I would use a 400 stone in between to make the scratch removal easier.
 
I find that one can indeed jump from the 220 (I use the pink brick from Bester) to AI1000 (a.k.a. Shapton Pro 1k) when working on the edge. On bevels I would use a 400 stone in between to make the scratch removal easier.
Same thing with Shapton pro 120. Jump to 1K on the edge without any issues
 
I don’t know about synthetic stones and I do not know why, but I read that Jnats will become convex with a 2 stone flattening method (still good) but the 3 stone rubbing rotation will make them flat, so I asked in the post. If it is a little convex, it’s still fine with me to consider doing, vs. super dished rough stones, so I have felt it is a very interesting method if it works well for synthetics.

I read that Iwasaki-san (the razor guy) has 3 same finishing stones, for example. The dish of my shapton glass 120x almost reaches the bottom now. Nice stone in my view. Think of what to buy next, maybe the sick black sigma 120x. Good price. Also good info from you, thank you.

Why they vould be conwex afterwards....
 
I got the glass 220 and love it. Speed-wise, it completely obliterates the King 300 deluxe, its really on a totally different level, FAR more than what you might expect from only an #80 grit difference.

Despite this, I still consider the King 300 one of the best value, cost effective coarse stones on the market. Although its nowhere near as fast cutting as the glass 220, it is SEVEN times as thick (King 300 = 34mm thick, shapton glass= 5mm).

5mm thickness of the King 300 VS. Shapton Glass 220 (5mm thick total):
For *the same amount of metal removal*, its hard to say which would actually last longer. Because of the cutting speed difference, this might be a little closer than you'd think.

Just consider if the speed makes it worth it for you personally.

Milimeter for Milimeter, most SG stones are somewhat justifiable because of their significant wear resistance, especially the higher grit you go; I havent tried the SG 120, however, the 220 glass dishes/wears noticably, signifincantly quicker than even the SG 500 (which I recently got also).

If you're on a strict budget and don't mind spending the extra time/effort on grinding work, the King 300 is an easy winner. If, for you, saving time and effort/energy is important, or if you sharpen professionally when often "time=money", then shapton glass 220 can make up for it's faster wearing/dishing, and higher relative cost.

I would like to find out just how fast the Glass #220 wears, but I'll hopefully be able to restrain myself and endure my ignorance -- I didn't curb my curiosity regarding the Shapton #220 Kuromaku/Pro -- despite the warning signs: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVuP0OTjLOY&feature=youtu.be&t=319 -- and it is just such a ridiculously, stupidly fast wearing stone from what I've experienced, particularly given its meager 15mm thinness.
 
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I started using my Naniwa Chosera #400 then #800 then #2000 , i first used my King #6000 for finishing but felt i need a little better finishing.
I then used my new King Super Gold#8000 finishing stone for the first time, i quickly noticed that it was really getting the results i wanted.
 

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I would like to find out just how fast the Glass #220 wears, but I'll hopefully be able to restrain myself and endure my ignorance -- I didn't curb my curiosity regarding the Shapton #220 Kuromaku/Pro -- despite the warning signs: -- and it is just such a ridiculously, stupidly fast wearing stone from what I've experienced, particularly given its meager 15mm thinness.

That green stone does not look like a Shapton #220 stone, the Shapton #220 i have seen are not green.
 
Oh, i think it’s moss color toward the yellow hue (220x shapton pro), where fern color would be toward green shade. The green of 2k shapton pro is greenest i think and the melon one from the 8k is the second greenest. Mint, i say!
 
Thank you, Ivan Hersh, for your replies to me and Knife2meatu, a link and your participation in the forum. I appreciate your work.



I also believe you that you saw a green stone in the video, not a moss color stone. I also agree with you that shapton 220x is a moss color.



If I may elaborate more, from my view how I saw color in that video, I saw it as a moss color like I usually see from shapton 220x, which I might be wrong. When you replied, I thought of Dr. Naka that he would be able to hear what exactly the stone is from stereo sound, or if I study the vdo more thoroughly to pick up from other clues what stone it actually is, but I would leave it at that (I spent too much time on VDOs these days) and believe you that you see the stone as a green color sharpening stone. Perhaps it is.



Someone may also ask the guy on that VDO on youtube and read more details on the page. I skimed it as the title is shapton 220x where he compared it with his Bestor 220x stone, which he might post the wrong VDO up too, nobody knows these days. Peace.
 
@Ivan Hersh: I see that my link was precisely to a point in the video right after he finished cursing out the Shapton, my bad -- and I now notice that there's a greener stone later on which is a Naniwa Pro #400. The stone he uses at the beginning of the video is most definitely a Shapton #220. Moss, yes -- a most frustrating stone.

edit: and funny enough, there's also a Naniwa Pro 1k later on -- so I guess it turns out there are a lot of green stones in the video, actually.
 
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Well anyway it was a thread to remember the video was hard to understand, thought it was just going to be about the Shapton 220x but then there was the large stone in the video.

But it's now been all explained so all is well, i quickly found out there are a lot of stones being offered, and you get many people making different posts as to how they found them to work.

With so many different knife steels i understand how these people get different results with their sharping, and why so many stones need flattening sooner then others using the same stones.
 
I have both the shapton pro 220 and the glass 220.

the glass is faster than the pro, maybe 20% faster.
the glass wears slower than the pro. maybe 20%.

both wear extremely fast compared to even the glass 500. not mentioning the glass 2k/pro2k's. these maybe wear like 100 times faster no kidding. but they remove material maybe 100 times faster too.

I mean i can see dishing in the stones from using them for about 1 minute. its not much but yes i can see it fro 50cm away.

How do i combat this?? I dont. I do however not flatten them, i simply use the sides when they get "high" and then after a few minutes the stone is flat again. I have also noticed they cut faster if you leave the sludge on the stone instead of cleaning it off. and both these stones will produce a lot of stone slurry, if you press hard enough. and you will be since you want to get sh1t done fast, thats the only reason you got these stones in the first place. right.

And these stones do deliver. My 220 glass is faster cutting than all my diamond stones. even the 160 diaflat! the mother of all diamonds!

also the glass 220 is 7mm thick not 5mm as someone said. the rest of the higher grit stones are 5mm except for the 500 double thick which is 10mm.

I'd say both the 2220 glass and pros are very very good and competent stones. these are actually slow wearing for the material they remove imo. but in absolute terms they are very fast wearing.

I'd say a 7mm glass will wear out in maybe 5-8 flattening/thinning jobs on SS, and the pro maybe last 1-2 rounds more. for actual sharpening and removing chips these will probably last a lifetime. no joke.

I love both my 220ies, these are so brutal and fast i simply laugh when using them. this cutting action is almost unbelievable. and you will notice stone wear on a similar level.
 
yeah almost forgot: the glass you can obviously use up 100% of but the pro will most certainly crack in half at about 5mm thickness or so.

so either you glue the pro to something or you glue 2 of them together! then you can use up 100% of the stone.
I have 2 220 pros glued together. but i guess you could glue the stone to whatever you like, I guess even wood would do (even though it would hold water and most certainly degrade/destroy the stone slowly).
The underside of a ceramic tile would be a better option imo. just make sure it a porous surface imo so the glue has something to bite into.

I have used 1 component polyurethane glue, its marketed as "waterproof wood glue" but it will glue almost anything. its the foaming type and likes having the surfaces lightly sprayed with water maybe a minute before applying the glue and pressing the surfaces together. the glue actually hardens with help of the oxygen and water vapor in the air. the second component of the glue is water :) the water in the air.

also have a shapton pro 1k and 2k glued together with this type of glue. you will find it where ever they sell wood boards and mdf and similar. the 1/2k dual has been rock solid! not coming apart anything soon. i can assure you that.
 
@inferno I've spent several hours thinning down a Henkels Twin Master (57 HRC; I believe it's X50CrMoV15) and comparing the #220 Kuro/Pro to various other stones -- and in this case the Shapton makes absolutely no sense to me Vs. an Imanishi pink brick. Speed-wise it's hard to differentiate between both; and they leave very similar scratch patterns with their mud. Except the Shapton just melts away like crazy no matter how little pressure I put down; and the Imanishi is wider and more than 3 times the thickness at 50mm. Hence, while the pink brick is roughly 60% more money, in this application I'd estimate that it would easily outlast 2 or even 3 of the Shaptons.

I know that Cliff Stamp discusses how harder steels cause less wear in a video wherein he mentions that he likes the Pro/Kuro #220 for working bevels on some of his knives -- the implication being that he likes it for some of his extremely hard, high carbide blades. (www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRCK2uZfSEU) This seems to agree with Shapton's own guidance chart which only recommends the #220 for High Speed Steel (HSS), whereas it gives the nod to the #320 for Japanese Sword; Swedish Steel; and Stainless Steel/Molybdenum Steel. Based on this I did try to find the hardest, most abrasion resistant thing I wanted to sharpen -- and while I only mustered a plane iron made of what I think is a low-alloy Swedish steel, heat treated to about 62-63 HRC -- it did reduce the abrasive release of the Shapton #220 somewhat, but still not nearly enough to justify the stone in my estimation.

I'm thinking that a combination of the Pro/Kuro #120/#320 would be much more efficient than the #220 for many, many applications. Now I'm just trying to think what hardened HSS I might have around to try and see if there's really a point at which the #220 makes sense compared to other stone choices.
 
Knife2meatu


I kinda doubt any pink brick will outlast any alu-oxide stone no matter how thick. first the pink bricks are usually friable silicon carbide and it wears fast as hell. secondly the pink bricks usually dont hold any water all it just all flows through. you specific pink brick might be different but its highly unlikely.

silicon carbide is usually used like this: you make a brick with no binder at all, just the carbide and then you soak it in oil. so it will hold its lubricant. the loosely "sintered" SiC fibers are very fragile so it will naturally expose new sharp edges (and wear fast) and this is what makes SiC good, that is it cracks down and exposes new sharp edges quickly. and if reverting to oil it will hold lube, and you need lube for all stones except non porous ones like spydercos to work. and the spydies load up in like 2 minutes (plz ask me how i know).

If i had any pink brick i would seal it with any kind of paint on all sides except from the top side. so water stays in the stone. remember there is no binder to break down here!

I olny have experience in industrial application with SiC and then its usually used on hardened steel because it cuts fast and then degrades to polish above its grade. But I'm not very impressed by this material at all.
A cheap industrial abrasive that is impressive though is boron carbide! only diamond and cbn is harder. boron carbide is usually used to grind/true alu oxide and SiC. its much more economical than diamond, and also diamond turns into a gas called carbon dioxide/monoxide at about 7-800deg C. :)

btw is you spent several h thinning down that "dish bench steel" stainless knife you have you are doing it wrong imo. 1h ok 3h not so much. push harder! move faster. be more brutal. show the knife who is in charge. I feel i can almost push with my whole body weight when using shapton stones, sure i dont do it with higher grit ones. since i want to keep using them but low grit ones like sub 1k. well, then i dont really give F to be honest. i abuse to the very max i can. and none of the 220ies have disappointed. they are faster than my diamonds so then its all good for me. I also do 100% pressure on the diamonds. i simply dont give a F. i want results. as fast as possible.

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i have no idea what cliff recommends but i know he is very knowledgeable regading abrasives and steels. one of the best. he is also also the most hated man in the kniofe community. since he tells the truth that no one wants to hear.

I personally buy all my stones based off forum discussions. i think i have only got 3 stones not based of internet forums discussions/recommendations. and its the diaflat 160 and the glass 500 and the glass 220. and neither of those did disappoint, and i got the 220 pro after that to see whats it was like. and all the ones i have gotten based of internet discussions performed just as people said they did! I knew exactly what i was getting. i love the internet. and many of the stones i got i based off judgment of the members here.

i think you would be wrong with the 320 stone though. its formulated for carbon steel only pretty much. an d i have read several threads/posts on here documenting its poor performance on SS. And even before this, i knew this was a carbon only stone. A retailer for this line said so like 10 years ago. the 120 as far as i know will melt away like 5 times as fast as the 220. i dont have it myself but hey if you read the forums a certain pattern establishes.

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anyway use what works for you!! and thats the only way you should do things!!
you own opinion is worth 10000 trillion engineers and smiths and makers and other knowitalls. because its only you that live your life. so i would listen to me/you first. :)


I cant state this enough. just because i have a certain stone that works well in my enviroment doesn't necessarily means the same stone will do the same for you!
different steel, different user, different weather, etc etc etc. I would take it more as "general probably will work good" recommendation. i always judge this if possible. and i also try to judge the skill/knowledge of the user. this says a lot. a lot! dont take recommendations like that. no questions asked. no way. you need more than that. but lets say if a user makes a good case, and he makes an impression of having knowledge of this then its good enough for me imo. i have not been disappointed yet. i guess its kinda "self regulating" this segment.


also the "shapton recommendations" is worth jack **** imo. dont make sense at all. only thing i know is that is that the 320 and 1500 pro is carbon only and will easily glaze on high alloy and or stainless. and many people have reported this over the years so it must be true.

also 220, shapton and hss. hss is high alloyed (very high alloyed steel, look it up on wikipedia). i dont think they can even make that differentiation even if they wanted to be honest.
when i worked in manufacturing/machining we used alox wheel for all hardened steels. it worked just as well each and every time. we had 3 different grades and 3 different grits. blue was coarse/friable mostly for lower hardened tools, like hand tools. white was standard/medium finish, quite hard wheels. only for hss. softer steel would clog and possibly explode the wheels. then we had pink wheels these were fine grit, maybe twice as fine as the white ones. and these were for finishing stuff in hss only. or any other 55hrc plus steel kinda. other **** would clog.

but to be honest you could grind whatever you wanted on whatever you wanted wheel. to quite good success. might not be optimal. but it would work!
On my job now i try to get the idiots to only use the blue wheel for all their mild steel sh1t. and the white wheel for hardened steel. I think i have gotten like 10 out of like 100 people to understand this by now. baby steps, baby steps....

I guess almost all of this is off topic crapola :) and I'm sorry for that.
 
@inferno Best I can tell, many "pink bricks" are pink alumina. From an abrasive manufacturer's literature:
Pink Fused Aluminum Oxide contains chromium oxide, which gives the material its pink color. The incorporation of the Cr2O3 into the Al2O3 crystal lattice produces a slight increase in toughness and a reduced friability compared with White Fused Alumina. Compared to Brown Regular Aluminum Oxide the Pink material is harder, more aggressive and has better cutting ability. The grain shape of Pink Aluminum Oxide is sharp and angular.
As for how long it takes me to grind away 30 thou (15 per side) or so of thickness from most of a 10" Twin Master -- well, I'm sure it could be done faster if I weren't comparing several different stones for speed, wear and scratch pattern -- but considering how ridiculously fast the Shapton Pro/Kuro #220 melts away, I'm thinking it makes more sense for most users to take 5% or 10% more time if it can get done with a fraction of a Pink Brick instead of washing nearly an entire Shapton down the drain as prematurely released, largely unspent abrasive particles.

Part of the time I've spent on this protracted thinning session has also been trying out the Shapton Pro/Kuro #320 on different steels, both stainless and carbon and I'm not seeing any of this mythical advantage on carbon or loading on stainless. I find that it too wears faster than I like, and I'm thinking I'd be hard-pressed in finding a reason to pick it over the Cerax #320. That said, the Pro/Kuro #320 does shed grit less absurdly fast than the #220, at least with the selection of tools/knives I've so far used it with; and I've not seen it load, nor do I expect to see it on account of its still relatively high friability.

Perhaps the 1.5k will show some difference between carbon steel and stainless steel, but I doubt it. Of course I doubt this because of the Shapton chart (https://www.fine-tools.com/shapton-instructions.html) which we've already discussed elsewhere; which couldn't logically be interpreted as implying that the #320/#1500 Kuro/Pro Shaptons were meant preferentially for carbon steel, and much less meant specifically for carbon steel. I'm further convinced that Shapton doesn't intend the #320/#1500's at different alloys than the rest of the Pro/Kuro line-up, based on part of Shapton's own FAQ (http://www.shapton.co.jp/en/faq/) about the stones:
Shapton FAQ QUESTION said:
Are any of the KUROMAKU sharpening stones recommended for normal household knives?
Shapton FAQ ANSWER said:
We recommend the Orange Medium (1000) sharpening stone and Wine Fine (5000) finishing stone. If you intend to use only one stone, we recommend the Blue Medium (1500) sharpening stone.
It would make absolutely no sense for Shapton, who surely knows best how and why their stones work, to recommend the #1500 Pro/Kuro to replace a #1k/#5k two-stone combination if the #1.5k wasn't designed to be similarly capable as the 1k and 5k. And I'm sure you wouldn't deny the Shapton Pro/Kuro 1k's good performance on stainless -- so, if it actually was the case that the Shapton Pro/Kuro #1500 was actually designed to be used exclusively on carbon steel... Why in the world would Shapton not recommend the 2k to replace a 1k/5k progression instead of the #1500? It would make no sense at all... unless the simple truth is that these stones are similar enough in function with regards to different steel compositions, that it just makes more sense to recommend the #1500 to replace the 1k+5k because the 1.5k's grit level is simply better suited as a compromise to replace them both than is the 2k.
 
Wow. Lots to unpack there. Definitely dislike pink brick for reasons stated above. Shapton glass 220 still sounds like it’s worth a purchase. Cerax 320 is hard to beat at its grit rating. If their is competition I’d like to hear more about it.
 
@inferno Best I can tell, many "pink bricks" are pink alumina. From an abrasive manufacturer's literature:

As for how long it takes me to grind away 30 thou (15 per side) or so of thickness from most of a 10" Twin Master -- well, I'm sure it could be done faster if I weren't comparing several different stones for speed, wear and scratch pattern -- but considering how ridiculously fast the Shapton Pro/Kuro #220 melts away, I'm thinking it makes more sense for most users to take 5% or 10% more time if it can get done with a fraction of a Pink Brick instead of washing nearly an entire Shapton down the drain as prematurely released, largely unspent abrasive particles.

Part of the time I've spent on this protracted thinning session has also been trying out the Shapton Pro/Kuro #320 on different steels, both stainless and carbon and I'm not seeing any of this mythical advantage on carbon or loading on stainless. I find that it too wears faster than I like, and I'm thinking I'd be hard-pressed in finding a reason to pick it over the Cerax #320. That said, the Pro/Kuro #320 does shed grit less absurdly fast than the #220, at least with the selection of tools/knives I've so far used it with; and I've not seen it load, nor do I expect to see it on account of its still relatively high friability.

Perhaps the 1.5k will show some difference between carbon steel and stainless steel, but I doubt it. Of course I doubt this because of the Shapton chart (https://www.fine-tools.com/shapton-instructions.html) which we've already discussed elsewhere; which couldn't logically be interpreted as implying that the #320/#1500 Kuro/Pro Shaptons were meant preferentially for carbon steel, and much less meant specifically for carbon steel. I'm further convinced that Shapton doesn't intend the #320/#1500's at different alloys than the rest of the Pro/Kuro line-up, based on part of Shapton's own FAQ (http://www.shapton.co.jp/en/faq/) about the stones:


It would make absolutely no sense for Shapton, who surely knows best how and why their stones work, to recommend the #1500 Pro/Kuro to replace a #1k/#5k two-stone combination if the #1.5k wasn't designed to be similarly capable as the 1k and 5k. And I'm sure you wouldn't deny the Shapton Pro/Kuro 1k's good performance on stainless -- so, if it actually was the case that the Shapton Pro/Kuro #1500 was actually designed to be used exclusively on carbon steel... Why in the world would Shapton not recommend the 2k to replace a 1k/5k progression instead of the #1500? It would make no sense at all... unless the simple truth is that these stones are similar enough in function with regards to different steel compositions, that it just makes more sense to recommend the #1500 to replace the 1k+5k because the 1.5k's grit level is simply better suited as a compromise to replace them both than is the 2k.

regarding the 320 and the 1500, believe what you want man, i'm not preaching a religion. but i have seen so many users stating the 1500 is glazing over on SS i'd say its proven fact beyond a doubt.
also this is the source, he was/is a retailer for shapton. and one of the first for the western world. if you look at shaptons own charts its BS all over. how come only the 10k and the 3k and the 30k is good for razors?? because shapton says so? its all just bs of course. all their charts are. but what you should really listen to is what i'm telling you. :) lol sounds good right.

you be your own judge but when you get this or that stone and it performs like crap dont come pointing fingers. you were warned.

also why do you think they have 3 stones under 500??
why do they have 3 stones from 1 to 2k??

yeah? are you getting the picture now?

https://jendeindustries.wordpress.c...oduction-to-the-shapton-pro-and-glass-series/




expand dong!




I was asked to put together something to help people discern between the different Shapton product lines by Locutus, a respected member of The Knife Forums. This is my first installment.

First, a little background information. I have been a Shapton retailer sine 2004, and have used the Professional and Glass Series almost exclusively in that time – by choice. I sharpen many different things outside of the forum’s normal Japanese/Western kitchen and EDC knives, including woodworking tools, reed knives, straight razors, beautician and medical scissors, periodontal instruments, and orthodontic cutters and pliers.

OK, so first thing first – Shapton has 2 main product lines in the US – Professional and Glass. There are several more lines – some have been discontinued over the years and others are not readily available in the US. (I hope to cover them in another installment, later.)

The Professional series have 10 stones, with some specifically formulated for carbon or stainless steels(or Japanese or Western knives and planes). They are really designed to be used in a coarse to medium to fine progression.

Coarse:

#120 – (White) – This stone is very aggressive, but tends to need a lot of maintenance to keep it flat and to keep it aggressive. (IME, Chisel users like this stone remove chips, but I generally don’t recommend it for kitchen knives)

#220 – (Moss Green) This stone is “harder” and is formulated for stainless steel.


#320 – (Dark Blue) This stone is “softer” and is formulated for carbon steel.


Medium:

#1,000 – (Orange) This stone is labeled Coarse/Medium, and is formulated for stainless steel.


#1,500 – (Lighter Blue) This stone is formulated for carbon steel and IMO, is a great 1 stone solution for minor repairs and edge maintenance.


#2,000 – (light Green) This stone is formulated for both carbon and stainless, and is one of my favorite, although very under used, stones.

Fine:

#5,000 – (Wine Red) This stone is pivotal in the Shapton pro series. It is a dense stone that produces the first mirror finish. It sets the stage for the finer polishing stones while producing an excellent edge for most conventional knives and tools.

#8,000 – (Melon Green) This stone takes the 5K to the next level. I find it “rubby”, but yet it always produces a wonderful finish and edge. (While I always recommend going from the medium to the 5K first before going to the 8K, this stone can also be used in a 2K-8K progression.)

#15,000 (Yellow) This stone takes everything even further. It is a “softer” stone and really puts a wonderful finish on an edge. (The Japanese version of this stone is the 12K. The only difference seems to be the packaging. The reasons for the numbering differences are unknown by me, and I do not have the 12K myself. I do not see why only one stone would be different or why each would not be offered in the other’s market.)

#30,000 (Purple) This is a truly wonderful stone, although it is very expensive. It is dense and hard, and takes sushi knives and razors to the ultimate level.

——

The Glass stones are the second main Shapton stone line. They were specifically formulated to accommodate the cold-hardened Lie-Nielsen A-2 plane blades, which are RC 63. (The Pro series will work on the Lie-Nielsen blades, but at 5K +, the feedback feels a little weird.) The Glass Stone series is considerably softer than the pros (relatively speaking – they are nowhere near as soft as a Norton 4K) in order to keep a steady supply of fresh abrasive to cut through the hard steel.

It should be noted that Shapton stones seem to be aimed at the woodworking market, mainly plane and chisel blades. I won’t expand too much on this in this installment, but the reason I bring it up is because the Glass Stones’ 5mm of abrasive vs. the 15mm on the pros have reduced the weight and cost of the Glass Stones, making them more affordable, and therefore very desirable for many other sharpening applications, such as kitchen knives. The technology for the hard steel also made the Glass stones very attractive to the more exotic steels used in many tactical, fixed blades, custom knives, etc.

With some help from Jim Rion from the SRP, I was directed a very good chart on a Japanese website that explains what each glass stone is ideal for (and I pretty much agree with). It has been translated below. You’ll note that there are several stones that are not available in the US, and that there are 3 gray colored JP (Japan) Glass Stones.



The “regular” Glass stones are white in color, and in the US come in #220, #500, 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, 6k, 8k, 16k, and 30k. The gray JP Glass stones are gray in color, and are formulated for carbon steel. The three JP stones are available in the US. (Only the #120, #320, and 10K are not.) In my mind, the JP stones are like the Shapton Pros with Glass Stone technology. As far as I know, there are only the 4k, 6k, and 8k in these JP stones, and that there is not an entire set of JP stones. (If there is proof otherwise, please let me know!)

While the Pro series was designed to go from coarse, to medium, to fine, the Glass series is pretty much mathematical, with doublings along the whole series. These stones are also broken down by the abrasive sizes in microns, giving a clearer indication of what each stone is doing.

Thanks!

a bullsh1t image that means almost next to nothing. talking from own experience.
shapton-glass-series-comparison-english1.jpg
 
and to be honest i dont think neither you or i have the authority to question what i just posted. since neither you or i are are retailers of these stones. nor have we been from 2004!! so we have to regard this a s fact. do you agree??
 
@inferno

Okay, I'll be right back after grinding both stainless & carbon on the #1500. Will a Victorinox pairing knife and a vintage plane iron from the 19th century suffice as stand-ins for "stainless" & "carbon" steels?
 
now this was a few years since this was written and i have actually tried both the 6k and 8k gray stones (this is what cleancut in sweden sells/sold, without telling their customers i might add, when ordrering as 6 or 8k glass), now it happens to be that i also had access to both 6k and 8k white glass and 8k pro. and another 8k to really really test these stones. and i did. i actually had 3 stone holders loaded at the same time. taking less than a second to swap between the stones. to not cloud my judgement you know. keeping it scientific as far as possible.

and to be honest. the white glass is about 50% faster working than the gray glass. and the pro is the same speed as the white but simply feels different. and also loads up different (more).
the gray glass polishes and finishes above the 12k pro, thats the price you pay, its slightly slower but finishes way above its grit. way way above. its the same with the 6k. i'd say the 6k gray. finishes about the same as the 12k pro.

and guess what. they all works equally good for stainless, carbon, hss, you name it. go ****ing figure! how can this be. when all their charts says otherwise.

because its all simply bull fukking sh1t, through and through. and its there is to it.

I have tested the products at least so i know goddamn well how they work. and i also own or have owned almost all their stones they have ever made.
 
@inferno

Okay, I'll be right back after grinding both stainless & carbon on the #1500. Will a Victorinox pairing knife and a vintage plane iron from the 19th century suffice as stand-ins for "stainless" & "carbon" steels?

id say go with 2 different knives or 2 different plane irons, ss/carbon.
 
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