Ssssshhhhhhhhh!!
Different stone or grit, that is the question...
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Ssssshhhhhhhhh!!
No comparative experiences with SG500. I tried some SG and they do not convince me on a feedback/feel aspect. Naniwa Pro(chosera) have a wonderful feedback considering they are almost Splash n Go.
SG in general is thinner, harder and does not dish as fast as Naniwa Pro.
So it comes down to your preference, what do you value more. For me, feedback is always a priority followed by speed - but the latter depends on what I want the stone for.
Maybe I am saying what is obvious, but I would think about what you are trying to achieve. For sharpening a lot of guys get by with a single stone like a 1 k. They get a good biting edge. Some use two stones like Murry Carter suggests.
I do not let my knives get dull, so I have little use for something less that a 1k. I am able to keep my knives sharp on a higher grit stone and I rarely have use for the 1k.
Polishing is a whole different endeavor. So if you are thinking of polishing you will want opinions about that. Polishers are a big rabbit hole. Different steels, different stones, different effects...
I do not let my knives get dull, so I have little use for something less that a 1k. I am able to keep my knives sharp on a higher grit stone and I rarely have use for the 1k.
Polishing is a whole different endeavor. So if you are thinking of polishing you will want opinions about that. Polishers are a big rabbit hole. Different steels, different stones, different effects...
Regarding the atoma, nagura, etc. The atoma is one of the best plates out there. You could use that for flattening your stones. You can also use the 3 stone method
I haven't personally modified the rubber holders of my stone holder, but, @stringer has said he's trimmed his down a little. I've started just putting my king combo stone in the holder then fold my wet towel over it and place the stones on top. Gets me some additional height for the short stones.
I haven't personally modified the rubber holders of my stone holder, but, @stringer has said he's trimmed his down a little. I've started just putting my king combo stone in the holder then fold my wet towel over it and place the stones on top. Gets me some additional height for the short stones.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
its very easy to trim down the rubber on stone holders. you can use any knife. or simply put some thin stuff under the stone. like a coin or 2.
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about new different feeling stones i think all the usual suspects have been mentioned.
king hyper is quite nice, they have a 1 and 2k. its a soaker.
i have a kitayama 4k that is suspect is a bester/imanishi 4k and feels feels very nice. a bit softer and velvety, but you can gouge it if clumsy. its s&g more or less.
the glass feels a bit different compared to shappros. i think all glass stones feel really nice actually. really like the 3 and 4k glass.
i think they have just the right amount of resistance/slide on the stones.
also the shappro hi grit ones like the 8k and 12k are nice.
the naniwa pros feels quite nice too. they feel a bit softer than shappros, but i doubt it that they actually are. the 2k is nice and not too expensive, and finishes at about 3k i'd say. very usable grit. the 800 is very good too. the 1k is good too but i think its a bit too messy.
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i would avoid SiC stones like nortons, yuck.
atomas would be "an aquired taste"
yeah lets just call it that.spydercos are hard like rock, have absoutely 0,0000% feedback, get clogged, and are slow for their grit. avoid like the plague!!
missarkas are like spydercos but slightly porous and are soakers.
If it's that thin, the rubber is the last problem you need to worry about.
Perhaps but as long as it holds together, why not shave the very last possible mm out of it? It's a "complaint" I've heard more than once, so I guess that point comes sooner or later.
However I can always put another stone as a riser as been mentioned, which works for me, or cut it like others did, which might happen too should I decide to buy one.
I'm having doubts with the SG500. Every word M1k3 spoke seems true, steampunk says the same in his reviews; however it seems to be a quite particular stone to which the best uses don't quite correlate my own. The uses it lends itself that do fit my requirements are also working nice for me on the SP320. Finally, the feeling of the stone, as said by steampunk among others, resembles that of SP stones? That's exactly what I'm trying to change. All in all I might not be ready for that stone yet.
Sorry, I should have said "finishing" instead of polisher to avoid that confusion.
As much as I can understand that one-two stones can suffice, and that an higher grit is perhaps not my most used stone obviously... I need a finishing stone, especially reading steampunk once again and seeing that he doesn't seem inclined to believe that any of my actual stones, or even the ones I intend to buy, are good to deburr of themselves. SP1000 he says would be difficult to deburr, and SG500/NP800 doable only with very good skills. With the SP320 at the other hand of the spectrum, and the fact I'm not so thrilled with my SP5000 although it does what I need it to do, buying another finishing stone seems to be indicated here.
I think a somewhat "coarser" finishing stone could be nice too. The Rika really seems to fit the bill.
Sorry, I should have said "finishing" instead of polisher to avoid that confusion.
As much as I can understand that one-two stones can suffice, and that an higher grit is perhaps not my most used stone obviously... I need a finishing stone, especially reading steampunk once again and seeing that he doesn't seem inclined to believe that any of my actual stones, or even the ones I intend to buy, are good to deburr of themselves. SP1000 he says would be difficult to deburr, and SG500/NP800 doable only with very good skills. With the SP320 at the other hand of the spectrum, and the fact I'm not so thrilled with my SP5000 although it does what I need it to do, buying another finishing stone seems to be indicated here.
I think a somewhat "coarser" finishing stone could be nice too. The Rika really seems to fit the bill.
Well it seems to me that I can even deburr - at least the most of the job - just lightening pressure on the SP320 even - but I'm far to be mastering this yet, so I guess when I say "deburr" and when more experienced sharpeners say "deburr", there is certainly a gap, perhaps even an ideology of such I'm not grasping yet.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
the glass 500 is a very very good stone. and how it feels does not matter in this grit range imo. only things that matters is that it works fast, and does not dish fast.
and the 500 is very dish resistant while being very fast. its not as fast a glass 220. but the glass 220 melts away/dishes quite fast too. the 500 stays fairly flat. and its much much much faster than any 1k stone. its a good followup after a coarse diamond stone. because on any 1k that would take ages.
but even better is a glass 220 and then the 500.
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if you want an allround finisher get a glass 4k. its as good as it gets imo. or a naniwa pro 3k. or a kit 4k. i'm guessing most 3-4k stones would be good. its just a matter of preference if you want soaker or not and hard or soft. dish resistance etc (not really a problem at the 4k range).
I'd recommend a King 400. It's like a giant grey brick around 100 cad. It's been great for thinning/chips. Wears semi fast but it's a very thick stone and you won't lose alot of you keep it flat
Morihei 1k for a midgrit. I think others have mentioned it on here. I like it cause it doesn't dish nearly as fast as a king 1k or a green brick from my experience. It also gives a nice contrast on your cladded blades when used with a bit of slurry on the stone. I use one of those small aroma nagura plates to raise mud and it leaves a good (imo) contrast.
And the Rika 5k to polish. It leaves a nice polish without losing too much of the contrast from the 1k and gives a tough bite on the edge too. But it does wear quite fast and you have to flatten it a bit if you're polishing a wide bevel or something like that. These should be around your budget if I remember correctly.
Morihei 1k for a midgrit. I think others have mentioned it on here. I like it cause it doesn't dish nearly as fast as a king 1k or a green brick from my experience. It also gives a nice contrast on your cladded blades when used with a bit of slurry on the stone. I use one of those small aroma nagura plates to raise mud and it leaves a good (imo) contrast.
And the Rika 5k to polish. It leaves a nice polish without losing too much of the contrast from the 1k and gives a tough bite on the edge too. But it does wear quite fast and you have to flatten it a bit if you're polishing a wide bevel or something like that. These should be around your budget if I remember correctly.
You don't necessarily need a stone holder in my opinion but it does help in keeping the stone from slipping around. A sink bridge is nice cause it keeps everything nice and clean and you have water ready. I used to use a dollar store plastic container and a 2x4 with small bits under to keep it from moving and a rubber mat to keep my stone still and it worked fine
Because of this. I've written something about it at some point. This solves a lot of early problems and will allow to use almost the entire stone.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
thats why you glue 2 stones together imo.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
is that a diy glass stone or an epoxy stone?? i guess it works either way.
What does? What's "this"
When the heck did Superman got involved into this??
You make a layer of magical crystals that will infuse the stone with positive cosmic energy and will enhance the sharpness to a level no one would achieve otherwise.
Or you could just call it an epoxy layer, but that's no fun.
Epoxy. Works nicely.
Finally went with four stones - one more to complete free shipping.
Cerax 320 - that's the free shipping add-on. 40$ CAD - 10% rebate AND only GST applied was a steal anyway.
Naniwa Pro 800
Shapton Pro 2000
Rika
... and a Naniwa stone holder.
Thanks for all the input and fun!
Cerax 320 - that's the free shipping add-on. 40$ CAD - 10% rebate AND only GST applied was a steal anyway.
Naniwa Pro 800
Shapton Pro 2000
Rika
... and a Naniwa stone holder.
Thanks for all the input and fun!
Carl Kotte
Senior Member
Can't wait to start have some...
No, wait, I already have fun with mine.
But...
Why did I order this then...?
No, wait, I already have fun with mine.
But...
Why did I order this then...?
Ah yes, I seem to remember now... my line of thinking was going along the lines of "yadda yadda yadda"... Yes it's all coming back now.
Bobby2shots
Senior Member
I'm sorta in the same position as you when it comes to buying "tweeners". (in between stones). I was shopping at Paul's online store last night, and placed a few stones in my cart, but haven't clicked that "buy" button yet. I've got a few multi-stone kits from Norton and ShaptonGlass, and when I buy those multi-stone kits, I like the idea of staying within the same brand and series for the predictability between grit differences. I'm not comfortable mixing different brands or series, especially when I read things like "brand A's 400 is more like a 600, while brand B's 400 is more like a 220, etc.
My most recent purchase from Paul's was the SG 320,1k,4k 3-stone kit, and I added the SG8K. The stones I placed in my cart last night, are the SG500, the SG2k,,, and eventually I'll probably add the 3k and 6k. Why have the 2k and 3k??? Because there seems to be a lot of debate over where to finish the German steel knives., and I want to see the difference for myself. The German-bashers recommend no more than 1k in some cases, and that's ridiculous. There's a helluva difference between finishing at 3 or 4k for example, compared to 1k. 1k may "cut" paper,,, but 3-4k will "slice" paper.
Why would I add the SG500 when I have an SG320? Well, I also have the Shapton DGLP, but you can't use that lapping-plate to flatten the SG stones below 500 grit. I could buy a few more 320's and use the 3-stone flattening technique, or,, powdered SiC abrasive on plate-glass. Seems to me that buying the SG500 would be more convenient, and probably cheaper when everything is considered.
Regarding the Atoma plates, I went with the 400 and the 1200. I felt that the 140 was perhaps too aggresive for my particular needs.
People are not saying not to take german steels to high polish because they want to piss you off, they say it because the matrix of the edge is too fragile to hold a high polish for any reasonable length of use.
But yeah if you want to cut paper, take them to a 30K if you feel inclined to it.
But yeah if you want to cut paper, take them to a 30K if you feel inclined to it.
