Expected edge retention/how to tell you're sharpening correctly

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What value do you generally shoot for on a thinner knife? I’ve been curious about this measurement lately since I was thinking about thinning a knife and took a few measurements to figure out what to shoot for.

At midblade, 10mm above the edge:
Shibata bunka: .87
Yoshikane 210: .96
Shiro Kamo 210: .96
Myojin 180: 1.14
Kamon 220: 1.2

The Shiro Kamo surprised me as it feels about as thick through food as the Kamon, nowhere near the Yoshi (or Myojin) which has the same measurement. And the Yoshikane and Shibata feel just about the same through food to me.
I usually don't measure that high up from the edge honestly. Generally I will thin directly behind it to around .010 or thinner. Honestly of the steel can handle it I will bring all the way to 0, then ad a microbevel. By the time I've thinned to that point I don't need to worry about 10 mm up from the edge.
 
At 1mm behind the edge, I'm getting between .14 and .16 mm thickness consistently.
Oh woops my bad. I'm so used to seeing decimal values in imperial measurements not mm. Yeah that's likely fine. Actually I'll convert it and edit if not.
 
Ok. So I converted it to inches.

.254 mm and under is usually good enough. Generally I don't like any kitchen knife. To be thicker than that.
 
When touching up I actually do exactly the same as when deburring. A few edge leading strokes on Belgian Blue, followed by a few strokes along the edge. True, that first edge leading strokes hardly raise a burr: that's the nature of the stone.
interesting i deburr with edge leading strokes on the stone, what is the purpose of doing "followed by a few strokes along the edge"
by "a few strokes along the edge" i persume you mean what is john doing in the video

do you do those "followed by a few strokes along the edge" also when using a metal honing rod ?
 
interesting i deburr with edge leading strokes on the stone, what is the purpose of doing "followed by a few strokes along the edge"
by "a few strokes along the edge" i persume you mean what is john doing in the video

do you do those "followed by a few strokes along the edge" also when using a metal honing rod ?

Not with a metal rod, still with a ceramic one. That said, metal rods I use are very fine, and I apply the lightest touch: I never found any trace of abraded steel. There is no flipping burr that has to get abraded.
That might be very different when dealing with grooved steels and some substantial pressure. If there's a remaining flipping burr you'll rapidly find out: depending on the steel type, either it breaks, leaving a moonscape behind, or it doesn't break but foils over the edge, making it instantly perfectly dull.
 
Not with a metal rod, still with a ceramic one. That said, metal rods I use are very fine, and I apply the lightest touch: I never found any trace of abraded steel. There is no flipping burr that has to get abraded.
That might be very different when dealing with grooved steels and some substantial pressure. If there's a remaining flipping burr you'll rapidly find out: depending on the steel type, either it breaks, leaving a moonscape behind, or it doesn't break but foils over the edge, making it instantly perfectly dull.
interesting but what is the benefit of doing "followed by a few strokes along the edge" when deburring on the stone and not just doing edge leading strokes ?
 
interesting but what is the benefit of doing "followed by a few strokes along the edge" when deburring on the stone and not just doing edge leading strokes ?
Simply in catching the last burr remnants. Find out if it makes any difference in your case.
 
metal rods I use are very fine, and I apply the lightest touch:
do you use an oval metal rod ?
if so is it the same as using a circular rod or you do something differently?
 
do you use an oval metal rod ?
if so is it the same as using a circular rod or you do something differently?
It is very long time ago I handled another than a oval rod. The oval ones are supposed to offer a larger contact area. A round one has a minimal contact area. Errors in manipulating, such as too high a pressure, are likely to be aggravated.
 
It is very long time ago I handled another than a oval rod. The oval ones are supposed to offer a larger contact area. A round one has a minimal contact area. Errors in manipulating, such as too high a pressure, are likely to be aggravated.
I've been touching up occasionally with a few very light strokes on a ceramic rod and then stripping on my palm and that keeps it good for the rest of the shift, at least. I worked 80 hours last week with a new ginsan gyuto I rehandled and I think I lightly sharpened it twice after the initial sharpening to get past the factory edge, ceramic rod maybe once every couple of days.
 
I've been touching up occasionally with a few very light strokes on a ceramic rod and then stripping on my palm and that keeps it good for the rest of the shift, at least. I worked 80 hours last week with a new ginsan gyuto I rehandled and I think I lightly sharpened it twice after the initial sharpening to get past the factory edge, ceramic rod maybe once every couple of days.
I often use stropping in hand to move all debris to the other side where I can abrade them.
 
It is very long time ago I handled another than a oval rod. The oval ones are supposed to offer a larger contact area. A round one has a minimal contact area. Errors in manipulating, such as too high a pressure, are likely to be aggravated.
very interesting i wasn't aware of that thank you for the comment
do you use the rod before the performance of the knife decreases or when it does ?
 
very interesting i wasn't aware of that thank you for the comment
do you use the rod before the performance of the knife decreases or when it does ?
My pleasure. I try to use my rods — Dickoron Micro & Polish — in time: before a noticeable decrease of performance. No big deal as a home user: feeling with my nail along the edge tells me it's time. That said, I steel prior to the use of the knife — not afterwards.
 
My pleasure. I try to use my rods — Dickoron Micro & Polish — in time: before a noticeable decrease of performance. No big deal as a home user: feeling with my nail along the edge tells me it's time. That said, I steel prior to the use of the knife — not afterwards.
interesting i have a dickoron micro but i do not have a dickoron polish.
i have only low hrc knives
and a grooved rod which i will now no longer use based on what you said in a few comments above.
i use the microfine dickoron rod when i see a decrease in the performance of the knife. i inspect the knife before i use it and if i see it as necessary i do a couple very light force only the weight of the blade on the dickoron rod and no more than 5 alternating sides strokes
after that i use the knife to cut and before i use it next time i check again .....
again thank you for the comment @Benuser i remember you from a forum i used to read some time ago you mentioned the dickoron micro thats why i bought it also i miss reading the comments of Boar_De_Laze :(
 
in time: before a noticeable decrease of performance. No big deal as a home user: feeling with my nail along the edge tells me it's time.
do you use the nail check method as such ? like trying to shave a little piece of nail and see if the knife sticks to it or slides ?
also if i understand you correctly you do what i do , you use the knife then store it and at the next time you go to use it you check if it needs honing ?
 
do you use the nail check method as such ? like trying to shave a little piece of nail and see if the knife sticks to it or slides ?
also if i understand you correctly you do what i do , you use the knife then store it and at the next time you go to use it you check if it needs honing ?
Not seeing whether it cuts. It does, don't worry. Feeling along the edge, from heel to tip, whether it feels equally smooth on both sides.
 
Not seeing whether it cuts. It does, don't worry. Feeling along the edge, from heel to tip, whether it feels equally smooth on both sides.
this is how i check

sorry for not being able to understand the method you are referring to but do you do a sawing motion with the knife on your fingernail ?
 
this is how i check

sorry for not being able to understand the method you are referring to but do you do a sawing motion with the knife on your fingernail ?

No, I move my nail on the bevel from heel to tip. On the bevel, not on the apex.
IMG_20221012_103400.jpg
 
No, I move my nail on the bevel from heel to tip. On the bevel, not on the apex. View attachment 202905
thank you for the illustration all this time i was thinking that you meant what Vincent does in the video here for illustration purpose i linked it

the finger nail test that you perform if it is not smooth on one side it means there is a burr or what does it indicate?
 
thank you for the illustration all this time i was thinking that you meant what Vincent does in the video here for illustration purpose i linked it

the finger nail test that you perform if it is not smooth on one side it means there is a burr or what does it indicate?

In older literature it's being called the edge 'being out of true'. Whether such a thing does exist or not, when the side close to the very edge isn't smooth, it has to do with some damage or burr. I'm speaking of soft carbons here: easily slightly damaged, easily repaired. No drama as with harder steel types I wouldn't ever use the smoothest steel with.
 
do you use this nail method for detecting burr when sharpening on the stone ?
I use it for checking whether the edge is equally smooth on both sides, and to remove swarf with sticky stones, like the Naniwa Junpaku or a Coticule.
A warning though: it is likely to have social consequences, as it damages your nail.
For a burr specifically, moving your nail perpendicular to the edge works the best for me.
 
I use it for checking whether the edge is equally smooth on both sides, and to remove swarf with sticky stones, like the Naniwa Junpaku or a Coticule.
A warning though: it is likely to have social consequences, as it damages your nail.
For a burr specifically, moving your nail perpendicular to the edge works the best for me.
dear @Benuser thank you for the comment again i just wanted to ask you what do you think about this matter
In older literature it's being called the edge 'being out of true'. Whether such a thing does exist or not, when the side close to the very edge isn't smooth, it has to do with some damage or burr. I'm speaking of soft carbons here: easily slightly damaged, easily repaired. No drama as with harder steel types I wouldn't ever use the smoothest steel with.
when i use the dickoron micro i do not see almost any amount of metal residue or if i see its extremely small amount
so when me and you use the rod according to science of sharp article i read some time ago the way a metal honing rod works (a ribbed rod and a smooth) is by establishing a micro-bevel by adhesion and not abrasion....
hope to know what your thought are about this topic and what do you think happens when we use the dickoron micro ?
i will link the article so you will know what i am talking about
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/
 
dear @Benuser thank you for the comment again i just wanted to ask you what do you think about this matter

when i use the dickoron micro i do not see almost any amount of metal residue or if i see its extremely small amount
so when me and you use the rod according to science of sharp article i read some time ago the way a metal honing rod works (a ribbed rod and a smooth) is by establishing a micro-bevel by adhesion and not abrasion....
hope to know what your thought are about this topic and what do you think happens when we use the dickoron micro ?
i will link the article so you will know what i am talking about
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/
it is very interesting to know everyone's opinion on this matter
 
dear @Benuser thank you for the comment again i just wanted to ask you what do you think about this matter

when i use the dickoron micro i do not see almost any amount of metal residue or if i see its extremely small amount
so when me and you use the rod according to science of sharp article i read some time ago the way a metal honing rod works (a ribbed rod and a smooth) is by establishing a micro-bevel by adhesion and not abrasion....
hope to know what your thought are about this topic and what do you think happens when we use the dickoron micro ?
i will link the article so you will know what i am talking about
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/
"Traditional honing rods do not have sharp protrusions, and the metal swarf found on the surface is observed as flattened or smeared patches of metal. This type of metal removal (or transfer) is generally termed adhesive wear. Adhesive wear occurs at points of very high pressure that occur when the contact area is very small."
Not sure this might help us much further. In the article the smoothest rod is a round one, a butcher's, by Victorinox. I've found no trace of steel on my oval Dickorons used with the least abrasion resistant steel in the world. Oviously there is no very high pressure with very small contact area involved. Not sure either they create a microbevel. I know what it takes to remove a microbevel when sharpening and haven't noticed such a thing here.
 
"Traditional honing rods do not have sharp protrusions, and the metal swarf found on the surface is observed as flattened or smeared patches of metal. This type of metal removal (or transfer) is generally termed adhesive wear. Adhesive wear occurs at points of very high pressure that occur when the contact area is very small."
Not sure this might help us much further. In the article the smoothest rod is a round one, a butcher's, by Victorinox. I've found no trace of steel on my oval Dickorons used with the least abrasion resistant steel in the world. Oviously there is no very high pressure with very small contact area involved. Not sure either they create a microbevel. I know what it takes to remove a microbevel when sharpening and haven't noticed such a thing here.
very interesting @Benuser so do you suggest that the dickoron micro simply straightens the edge ?
if only todd could test the usage of a dickoron micro with his microscope 😔
 
very interesting @Benuser so do you suggest that the dickoron micro simply straightens the edge ?
if only todd could test the usage of a dickoron micro with his microscope 😔
I just don't know. My curiosity about using those steels with soft carbons comes from descriptions of old sharpening practices in France, where they were highly polished, AND the knives were permanently steeled. Using an even finely grooved steel makes no sense, as it fatigues the knife's steel. Working with a freshly sharpenend soft carbon on a crappy poly board was possible for say 45 minutes. Steeling with a grooved steel gave ten minutes more. Next steeling only a few minutes.
I found that those knives benefit from strongly convexed, highly polished edges if maintained with a polished steel. They offer a surprising good bite and are far from vulnerable.
 
I just don't know. My curiosity about using those steels with soft carbons comes from descriptions of old sharpening practices in France, where they were highly polished, AND the knives were permanently steeled. Using an even finely grooved steel makes no sense, as it fatigues the knife's steel. Working with a freshly sharpenend soft carbon on a crappy poly board was possible for say 45 minutes. Steeling with a grooved steel gave ten minutes more. Next steeling only a few minutes.
I found that those knives benefit from strongly convexed, highly polished edges if maintained with a polished steel. They offer a surprising good bite and are far from vulnerable.
very interesting i do not have any soft carbons just regular stainless steel knives in the range of 56-58 hrc i use the dickoron micro with them , is there anything better than the dickoron micro for those knives in your opinion ?
 
@Benuser
Your story about the polished Dickeron, and how you use it prior to wear on your soft carbons. I'm very enthousiastic to try this out.
Right now the wife cuts with dull crap stainless: I don't have the time to sharpen at this moment, so I can't test your way.

But, a little bit related to @boblob 's question:
Do you think that the polished will also work on soft stainless? Or do you find that it works specific on soft carbon only?
I don't have any experience with soft carbon, so I don't know how it compared to (soft) stainless regarding to using a rod..


edit: Or are you past the stage you have any crappy, soft stainless in your home ? 🤔
 
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