Flattening Thinning Kasumi stones for home setup

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konsuke

konsuke

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Beginner and have probably over invested in my setup. I'm missing a flattening stone:
  • Kai 300/1000 2-in-1
  • Naniwa Pro 800
  • Naniwa Pro 3000
  • King S-1 6000 came with Nagura 500 and one I can't identify
Was reading Atoma 140 + handle here, but that costs €130 alone without duty + tax to the EU. Can you recommend me something else I can use for all stones?
 
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Thanks. So the Suehiro look like the cheapest option - the diamond plates are so thin without handle:
https://hiomakivi.fi/en/c10328/accessories
Which Suehiro (cheapest) one(s) should I get considering I will want to flatten everything from 200 - 6000?
  • #100 for up to 1000 grit
  • #280 over 1000-6000
sounds good?
 
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Atoma 400 or DMT 325 is very popular (and the best for your money) for both thinning and flattening
It is best to thin out a knife first, i.e. defuse it slightly, then they will work almost endlessly...it is very important to work without pressure, otherwise you will tear the diamond splinters out of the carrier matrix
 
there is not a big difference between 140 and 400 when they are incorporated. I think the 400s are more universal, especially for finer stones and thinning
 
Oh, these Suehiro/Naniwa flattening stones need to be soaked. No time for that. Considering an atoma and glue on a handle myself.
 
a handle for what?

the biggest advantage of good diamond plates is that they are and stay flat! you don't have to worry about it anymore, in contrast to the flattening stones
 
Personally I feel like the handled atoma is pointless. It’s much much cheaper for the non handle version and it works fine. Also, you can in future tape say an atoma 400 on the back side, and then you have a 140/400 atoma. Plus you can mount them into a stone holder to use if you want. With the handle, all of those possibilities are removed.

Or if you wanted a handle regardless, I have seen people mount handles to their atoma with a bit of weldbond putty and a cabinet handle.

Personally I think the handle is not necessary. Just my opinion So take it with a grain of salt 😅
 
If you're worried about the finish an Atoma 140 leaves, just rub it down with one of the other sharpening stones. I don't really see the point of the handle.
 
Jarrod12345 said:
Personally I feel like the handled atoma is pointless. It’s much much cheaper for the non handle version and it works fine. Also, you can in future tape say an atoma 400 on the back side, and then you have a 140/400 atoma. Plus you can mount them into a stone holder to use if you want. With the handle, all of those possibilities are removed.

Or if you wanted a handle regardless, I have seen people mount handles to their atoma with a bit of weldbond putty and a cabinet handle.

Personally I think the handle is not necessary. Just my opinion So take it with a grain of salt 😅
Click to expand...
Could also use one of those suction cup handle things.
 
Cheapest option is get some silicon carbide powder (around 60-90 grit) and a flat piece of tile from the hardware store. It's messy though so you might want to do it outside.

Next option for convenience would be simple sandpaper, also on top of a hard flat surface.
 
tostadas said:
Cheapest option is get some silicon carbide powder (around 60-90 grit) and a flat piece of tile from the hardware store. It's messy though so you might want to do it outside.

Next option for convenience would be simple sandpaper, also on top of a hard flat surface.
Click to expand...
I've been using a half sheet pan and an old piece of 3m pro sandpaper.
 
Still haven't but plan to get the Atoma 140 for flattening all my stones.
So far Kai 300/1000 2-in-1, Nw 800/3000, KingS1 6000.

Additionally need stones for thinning and attempting a kasumi finish on my Toyama SS.

The Atoma 140 when used for thinning supposedly leaves deep scratches. I probably cannot work them out with the stones I have, or it's slow. So which one should I get for thinning?

For the Kasumi, I'm thinking it will work good with the stones I have, or should I get something else? My goal would be something like this:

1676043335744.png
 
Removing scratches is easier done when you go 90 degrees against the existing scratchpatern.

First gritt horizontal, next grit vertical etc. etc.
 
konsuke said:
Still haven't but plan to get the Atoma 140 for flattening all my stones.
So far Kai 300/1000 2-in-1, Nw 800/3000, KingS1 6000.

Additionally need stones for thinning and attempting a kasumi finish on my Toyama SS.

The Atoma 140 when used for thinning supposedly leaves deep scratches. I probably cannot work them out with the stones I have, or it's slow. So which one should I get for thinning?

For the Kasumi, I'm thinking it will work good with the stones I have, or should I get something else? My goal would be something like this:

View attachment 224935
Click to expand...
the atomas are good for flattening stones. but not for knives. they create very deep scratches.
also you will wear them out very fast if used on knives. its much better to get a 220 shapton or 240 sigma for thinning knives. get both since they prefer different materials. sigma is good for hard monos. shapton for everything else.

regarding kasumi stones. well the best one i've found is the naniwa pro 2k. the finish is almost identical to an uchigumori. and then a high grit one suehiro green 8k g-8-dn this is as good asit gets with synth stones imo. also morihei 9k karasu. for lower grit like 800-1k we have the kings, naniwa pro800, shapton pro 1k etc etc.

https://www.suehiro-toishi.com/en/gyomu/超仕上砥石　g-8-dn（台なし）/
you should also know that the most "contrast" will be created with ironclad carbon blades.
ss clad carbon could work either way. could be good good could be almost invisible.
ss clad high cr tool or ss steel is really hard to get a nice contrasty finish on.

and this depends on what type of ss they use for the cladding. 304/316/400 series etc etc.

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/the-grandiose-synth-kasumi-thread.51860/
 
i now have a post showing the naniwa pro finish on the last page of the synth kasumi thread. its almost identical finish to my uchi. check it out. and its ultra repeatable. and maybe thats the most important thing of it all. i mean there are stones that can give a good finish if you stop at juuust the right time, and then if you go a minute or 2 longer then its all mirror polished or all streaky, or half the blade is finish x and the rest is finish y. depending on the pressure or whatever.
 
Many thanks @inferno ! For thinning, do you think a 220 Naniwa Super Stone (S1-402) would work as good as a 220 Shapton?
 
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