For The Knifemakers: Comparative Steel Removal Volumes of 2"x72" Belts

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MSicardCutlery

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Since I started doing this, even as a hobbyist, I've been a diehard Norton Blaze fan, and for various reasons, availability, curiosity etc. I've experimented with other belts but today I decided to perform a more quantitative analysis and record it here for the reference of others. This is by no means scientific, but I'll specify as many of the variables that I can and consider relevant.

I almost always do the bulk of my grinding with 36 grit belts, I've tried the VSM 880Y's, RedHeat's, Combat Shredders, but keep coming back to my trusty Norton Blaze belts. I've tried the 50 grit belts, and still prefer the 36's, especially on MagnaCut.

Today's test is as follows

  • 3 gyutos, 2x215mm, 1x220mm, same heel height ~55mm, 2.7mm thick MagnaCut @~63hrc.
  • With separate belts I ground in steep ~30 degree bevels to get the corners off of the edge and bring the edge thickness to ~.02"-.03". This prolongs the life of the belts significantly. I also made a quick pass to knock off any scale loose enough to vibrate off the blades
  • I tested the following belts made by Norton: Blaze 24 grit, Blaze 36 grit, and the Razorstar 36 grit
  • I reconditioned/dressed/resurfaced the belts using a piece of hardened O1 tool steel when the belts began to glaze and did so as necessary until it was no longer impactful
  • I concluded the use of one belt when it became glazed over and could not be dressed to any avail
  • "Glazed" in this context meaning dulled to the point of leaving a reflective scratch pattern on the blank
  • Blanks were weighed prior to grinding (after knocking off the corners and scale) and after to determine the volume of steel removed
  • Only 1 new belt was used on each blank for the test
  • Grinder running at 6322 SFM @ 3hp and using a glass platen

First up was my old standby the 36 grit blaze.

Initial blank weight: 201g
Post grinding weight: 176g

Nothing much to note, I burn hundreds of these a year.

Second was the Razorstar 36 grit. I'm very skeptical of new gimmicky belts that cost 50% more than the Blaze belts, but I've wanted to try them for a bit. The first thing I noticed was that the grit felt finer than the Blaze 36 grit.

Initial blank weight: 215g
Post grinding weight: 137g

Um, wow. That damn belt just wouldn't die, it kept coming back time and time again after dressing. The heat build up was higher than the Blaze, which would support the grit size being smaller, but it could also easily be that the distribution is more even and thus there's more abrasive in contact with the steel at a given time leading to more friction. I also did not need to push on my workpiece as hard to keep the belt cutting well. I am beyond impressed.

Third, the Norton 24grit Blaze. Anyone that's done much sanding on wood will know what a small increase in abrasive size can do for material removal rates and volumes. I was curious to see how much it would translate to steel. Especial a steel like MagnaCut that benefits from coarse abrasive size

Initial blank weight: 209g
Post grinding weight: 165g

Not bad, better than the 36 grit by a whopping 76%, but the belt needs to be pushed very forcefully to cut well, and while definitely superior to the 36 grit Blaze, using these all day would destroy my hands. My knuckles are not happy with me as it is. These would be a more viable option with a blade jig such as the one made by Oliver Tobin

I intend to keep adding to this thread in the future, potentially with other steels, but likely just with other belts. I'll try out the Norton RedHeat 36 grit, VSM 880Y 36 grit, Actirox 36 grit and Norton 50 grit at some point in the future for reference, but based on today's test I think I may trade up to the Razorstar belts permanently.

Also, I am not affiliated with Norton. I just like their grinding belts.
 
Impressive with the Razorstar! Interested to see how the Actirox compares to it! I use those as my main 36 grit, but usually use the VSM 880 or 885's. Never thought to weigh the blades to see how much material is removed by the coarse belt!
 
Very! And so am I. For now I can definitely say that the cutting pressure is lower with the RazorStar.
 
I thought Razorstar cut a bit slower at first compared to Blaze, but it just keeps cutting after 1 whole blank is finished.
While the Blaze is just toasted after 1 Blank. It could still work for slight thinning, but not as effective.
 
I love the Norton Blaze 50's, on thinner knives, I've heard great things about the Razor's. My next order i'll grab some and see how they're on high alloy.
 
I tried the 50 grit blaze today on one of the same blanks.

Initial weight of 176g

After 1x 50 grit blaze 152g


24g removed.
 
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Today I gave the Norton RedHeat 36 grit belts a try. Same steel, same hardness. 27g removed. Interestingly comparable to the Blaze
 
  • With separate belts I ground in steep ~30 degree bevels to get the corners off of the edge and bring the edge thickness to ~.02"-.03". This prolongs the life of the belts significantly

  • I reconditioned/dressed/resurfaced the belts using a piece of hardened O1 tool steel when the belts began to glaze and did so as necessary until it was no longer impactful

Can you explain a bit more these two steps please ? I'm very curious.
The first one, you say if i understand well that you dont start grinding with a sharp 90°angle on your steel, as it will pop oit most of the abrasives is this right ?

For the second, how can you dress a belt ?

Cheers
 
Yes, most of us grind edge up, so that sharp 90 degree corner will shear the abrasive grains off of a new belt quickly! Most knifemakers scribe the center line of the knife (or 2 parallel center lines) and grind the corner down to come close to the line/lines. My 2 lines are around .030" or so apart, so I leave some edge thickness there when I start grinding. I start my bevels that way and then "walk" the bevel back up the side of the blade on each side by lowering the angle I am grinding at. That way you are grinding on a smaller surface area too and not trying to grind an entire 2" tall flat surface as you walk the bevels up. Makes a bit difference for me, especially with wide kitchen knives and wear resistant steels!

Dressing the belt like this involves taking a piece of hard steel and jamming it into the belt at high speed. Belts will load up and/or glaze over and the ceramic abrasive grains become dulled. Dressing the belt allows us to unglaze/unclog the grains as well as break them up to expose sharper edges. Most ceramic belts are designed to fracture with high speed/pressure (automated machine grinding), which is not how most knifemakers grind!

I use the Trizact Gator belts a lot and use a diamond dressing bar designed to dress/flatten round bench grinder stone wheels when they glaze over and wear and they cut really nicely afterwards for a while! The same bar doesn't work as well on regular ceramic belts because the diamonds smooth out the grains, but they do help remove glazing.
 
Amazing, thanks so much for your constructive reply.
I will test this !
 
Not quite the same.

Clogging happens when broken abrasive or steel starts to cover the abrasive or fill in gaps between the abrasive and reduces cutting effect.

Glazing happens when the abrasive gets polished and dulled, but does not break free and reduces cutting effect.
Crystal clear explanation, i like that. Thanks very much !
 
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