Hiromoto AS thickness question

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Have seen the same. Tang and even bolster protruding. Can be effectively addressed with dry automotive sandpaper. Is not as it should be, though.
 
I just played with a 240mm Hiro AS gyuto that was thicker at the tip and heal sections than in the middle.....go figure?
 
I E-Mailed Richmond complaining about the handle.He said happens often,that the wood gets like that fr. dry weather.Use mineral oil on handle.It has been raining here 3 days.Put a lot of mineral oil on it 3 days,no dice.Tang still is above wood all around the handle.

Her hands are much smaller than mine.Think I may reshape the tang some & round some edges a little to make a more comfortable handle.
 
The Hiromoto AS at CKTG is clad in 405 SS an the one at JCK is clad in 420J1 and a tad more expensive. Which one is better and in checking for FF?
 
The Hiromoto AS at CKTG is clad in 405 SS an the one at JCK is clad in 420J1 and a tad more expensive. Which one is better and in checking for FF?


I am sure someone with more knowledge can tell you about the clad, but I can say that the service I got from JCK was superb, I asked for the best example they had in stock and the one I got was perfect, no issues with the handle, everything smooth and flush and no scratches or marks anywhere on the handle or blade and from my limited experience the edge was really good.
 
I can agree about JCK's excellent service, both by my own experience as by reports by others. Mr Koki Iwahara goes far, very far in fulfilling his customers' requirements.
Reports about the other site's owner are more mixed.
No chance Hiromoto produces two different versions. One of the descriptions is less adequate. Not that it matters. The clad's function is purely protective. I would tend to believe JCK's description as Mr Koki Iwahara's office is said to be so to say next door to the Hiromoto factory. FWIW, is has been discussed before without any conclusive point:

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/printpost.php?tid/864170/
 
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For the sake of clarity, I think it's worth pointing out that "Hiro" by Hiro Knives Company (Hiroaki Masui) is a different company. JCK sells a line of theirs under the name Shiki. I own a Hiro branded gyuto that I've had for years. Fit and finish are excellent.
 
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Not on anything I have cut so far, not tried large potatoes yet . Tomatoes, cucumber, onions, carrots, courgettes, aubergine, small potatoes all cut with no problem and little effort
Hey guys,
I have both versions ( the Hiromoto biggest Santoku in Aogami Super and a biggest Gyuto 270 mm in Shirogami, limited edition)
I can compare with many knives: i have 30+ really great knives, inkl some Shigefusa, Kato, even some Honyaki.
Both Hiromotos are good, but differ from each other.
The Santoku is just outstanding! It's rather thin, even in comparison with other knives. Frankly speaking i bought the Santoku to use as a " test knive" to check my Jnats. But: the rather cheep knife is so good!! Of course, out of the box it was not that keen, as now. But i can really recommend this knife to everybody. And the soft side steel they use for Sanmai is very good to work on, so check the threads ( Dave has a " Full SPA Hiromoto", i have shown my fingerstone treatment etc). Hiromoto allows to play a lot with the knife.. This is maybe my cheepest knife, but i really love it.
The big 270 Gyuto is completely different : it's thick , heavy, so not so nice to use for any task. I use it only for meat-mincing task- it's very good for it, being heavy and handy. But as an every-day -chef knife....even being the big strong boy:) ..too heavy, too thick, a limited task knife. The handles are sturdy, but in general Hiromoto allows any " tuning"- check it! I have advised to my friend first of all their AS Santoku- easy sharpening, thin, very good retention, a real laser cutting! BTW- i have changed the cutting edge profile for a convex :),
 
What exactly have you done with the edge?

Nothing special, i just sharpen all my knives not in V- grind( almost all , i leave some for sone tasks) , i slightly " curve" by changing the angle at the final stage of the sharpening movement and get the "convex "form of the cutting edge. It works just awesome on thin knives, you get the fantastic cutting performance. As far as i know, Hattori san was the first who has offered the convex to the clients , at least he says it.
But as i see it looks often not so easy to achieve :(- at least for my friends, they prefer to stay with the straight bevel). Of course, this is applicable only for double bevelled knives. But you can play changing the angles as well (50/50,70/30,80/20 etc). Single bevel sharpening is completely different, it's clear.
 
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