Edge trailing works well if you want to remove a bit steel. It's fast. At the very edge though, it removes too much material. Going to a finer stone serves two purposes: refinement, and reducing or eliminating the remaining burr. I want the burr to get abraded, not just weakened by flipping over and hoping it will fall off. The edge it leaves behind is likely to be damaged. For abrading the burr, I find edge trailing too aggressive. The burr gets abraded, but a new one gets raised as well. Especially when some serious pressure is being applied.
The Arks I have used always provide a toothy edge, edge trailing or edge leading. No need for much pressure. The best deburrer I know is a soft Arkansas. That being said, soft is here most relative.
Have tried your technique with the simplest carbon I have, C60 @ 60Rc. Even when reducing pressure I can't reduce the burr with edge trailing. It only flips, or creates an new one, I can't tell. By edge leading I can considerably reduce the burr, and the last remnants are taken away with one or two longitudinal strokes, even with more complex steels.
So, I'm wondering if with the edge trailing strokes and considerable pressure you aren't creating a wire edge. For those who aren't familiar with it, it's a burr on top of the apex, very thin, crazy sharp, but failing after board contact. It may break, leaving a damaged edge behind, or fold, in which case it covers the edge and makes it perfectly dull. Quite common with jig users when they stick just behind the very edge. Jig user or not, to make sure you reach the very edge, use a sharpie and a loupe (8-12x). You will be surprised how often the very edge isn't reached, and all we do is accumulating debris on top of the old edge. A burr is no garantee that the very edge got reached. It may get developed before, as the loupe will show. This is quite likely to occur when big pressure is involved.