how would you deburr a knife that is too long to deburr by using edge leading strokes in 1 swipe

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boblob

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how would you deburr a knife that is too long to deburr by using edge leading strokes in 1 swipe (you can only hit a portion of the knife and not the whole edge in 1 strop[) ?
stropp it edge leading by sections ?
 
To abrade a burr I use the lightest possible, short (1/2") edge leading strokes, in sections, . I don't want it to just flip. It should get abraded, without raising a new one. Better repeat a few times than creating a fat new burr. With large, elegant swipes there's less angle control. Check with a sharpie and a loupe and you will be amazed.
 
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boblob said:
how would you deburr a knife that is too long to deburr by using edge leading strokes in 1 swipe (you can only hit a portion of the knife and not the whole edge in 1 strop[) ?
stropp it edge leading by sections ?
Click to expand...
Never had a knife long enough I couldn't do an edge leading stroke on it. Must be quite the monster you got yourself there.
 
boblob said:
how would you deburr a knife that is too long to deburr by using edge leading strokes in 1 swipe (you can only hit a portion of the knife and not the whole edge in 1 strop[) ?
stropp it edge leading by sections ?
Click to expand...

Are we counting a broadsword as a kinfe these days...

Have we all finally descended that deep into madness ? ? ?

action tai chi lebowski-the dude.gif
 
Last edited:
boblob said:
how would you deburr a knife that is too long to deburr by using edge leading strokes in 1 swipe (you can only hit a portion of the knife and not the whole edge in 1 strop[) ?
stropp it edge leading by sections ?
Click to expand...


There are other ways to deburr, but I'd agree with what others have said too - you should be able to do a full length deburring stroke on any kitchen knife. The length of the knife shouldn't really matter, the length of the stone might be more of an issue.
 
Benuser said:
To abrade a burr I use the lightest possible, short (1/2") edge leading strokes, in sections, . I don't want it to just flip. It should get abraded, without raising a new one. Better repeat a few times than creating a fat new burr. With large, elegant swipes there's less angle control. Check with a sharpie and a loupe and you will be amazed.
Click to expand...
so basically you are debarring by sections
very interesting
 
Reason to do it by short strokes and in sections is in limiting the waste of steel that occurs when swiping on coarse stones. I find it easier to control both angle and weight than with a swiping motion. Already on the first stone, say a 320, I want to abrade the burr, as much as possible without raising a fat new one. Exactly the same reason made me change from edge trailing to edge leading.
 
Benuser said:
Reason to do it by short strokes and in sections is in limiting the waste of steel that occurs when swiping on coarse stones. I find it easier to control both angle and weight than with a swiping motion. Already on the first stone, say a 320, I want to abrade the burr, as much as possible without raising a fat new one. Exactly the same reason made me change from edge trailing to edge leading.
Click to expand...
interesting i listened to @JBroida and he recommends deburring on the end of sharpening and each stone progression to raise burr on both sides
what is the reason to deburr at the coarse stone ? do you deburr on every stone of the progression ?

 
Benuser said:
Reason to do it by short strokes and in sections is in limiting the waste of steel that occurs when swiping on coarse stones. I find it easier to control both angle and weight than with a swiping motion. Already on the first stone, say a 320, I want to abrade the burr, as much as possible without raising a fat new one. Exactly the same reason made me change from edge trailing to edge leading.
Click to expand...


I've always found this technique of yours quite interesting, and if I recall correctly you also do it with the edge at a 90 deg right angle to the length of the stone, right?

I'm probably at a stage where I'm not going to mess around with my own final deburring technique too much now, but I'll certainly have to try this on coarser stones. And sometimes I do just sharpen on an SG500 and leave it at that, and you're right - it can be frustratingly difficult to full-length deburr cleanly and without flipping it / raising a new one. So I will give this method a go next time I'm using a coarser stone.
 
cotedupy said:
I've always found this technique of yours quite interesting, and if I recall correctly you also do it with the edge at a 90 deg right angle to the length of the stone, right?
Click to expand...
Indeed!
By the way, I don't find the SG500 all that coarse. While the 220 and 320 are quite similar, the 500 is a very different beast, which is a good thing. But it's no coarse stone.
 
Benuser said:
I indeed deburr on every stone in the progression — from the first one on. I'm not going to refine an edge on a medium-fine stone with still a coarse burr in place.
Click to expand...
when you do your sectional edge leading strokes you do lift up the knife in between every edge leading section pull right ?
 
Benuser said:
Indeed!
By the way, I don't find the SG500 all that coarse. While the 220 and 320 are quite similar, the 500 is a very different beast, which is a good thing. But it's no coarse stone.
Click to expand...


Yep, seems to be able to finish around the level of some other 600 & 700 grit stones I've tried. Just that's about as low as I'd finish a kitchen knife ever, and because it's also reasonably quick - full length deburring can be tricky on some steels, without just continually flipping it back and forth.
 
Benuser said:
No, only pushing. No more lifting than needed to move to the next section, while maintaining the angle.
Click to expand...
forgive me for my lack of understanding but i i just want to clarify you push and then you need to return the knife to the start of the stone for the next section how do you do that ?
also on the tip do you do it in one fluid motion or small incremental adjustments ?
thank you!!!!!
 
Last edited:
boblob said:
forgive me for my lack of understanding but i i just want to clarify you push and then you need to return the knife to the start of the stone for the next section how do you do that ?

also on the tip do you do it in one fluid motion or small incremental adjustments ?

thank you!!!!!
Click to expand...

On straight sections it's obvious. Remember: I want the motion to be perpendicular to the edge. In a belly I will have to follow the curve. The same with the tip, unless the last section to the tip is straight.
 
Last edited:
Benuser said:
On straight sections it's obvious. Remember: I want the motion to be perpendicular to the edge. In a belly I will have to follow the curve. The same with the tip, unless the last section to the tip is straight.
Click to expand...
oh now i think i get your method you do very short edge leading strokes move the knife from the top of the stone to the bottom but what if you run out of room i persume that you lift the knife and place it at the start of the stone again and not move it in a edge trailing fashion but do correct me if i am wrong
 
cotedupy said:
Yep, seems to be able to finish around the level of some other 600 & 700 grit stones I've tried. Just that's about as low as I'd finish a kitchen knife ever, and because it's also reasonably quick - full length deburring can be tricky on some steels, without just continually flipping it back and forth.
Click to expand...
do you know how many strokes did it take you ?
i do kipps method but do continute to strop edge leading after that
 
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