I've got my first straight razor coming in the mail. I have a question about honing.

[JesusisLord]

I ordered my first straight razor ever from Griffith Shaving Goods: a factory-new Thiers Issard 6/8 'Spartacus' Etch with Blond Horn Scales and a Full Hollow grind.

I asked them not to hone (sharpen it) because I want to do it myself. Here's the sharpening stones I have:

• Atoma Diamond Stone 140 for flattening
• Shapton Glass 400
• Suehiro 1k
• Chosera 3k and Suehiro 3k Ouka
• Suehiro 6k
• Shapton Glass 8k (Brand New)

Here’s the sequence I'm planning to use:

• Suehiro 1k to set the bevel (I know the stone needs to stay flat for straight razors. Will it wear down too quickly? Do I need a splash-and-go option?
• Chosera 3k
• Shapton Glass 8k (I just ordered this one because I read you need at least an 8k or higher stone for finishing a straight razor)
• Going to go ahead and order Naniwa 12k

Will these get the job done? Do I need to get another stone? Eventually, I want to get a Naniwa 12k or something even higher.
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For stropping, I have two paddle strops:

1. One strop with 1 micron of Gunny Juice.
2. One strop with 0.5 micron DMT diamond compound.

Update:
*I have a hanging leather straight razor strop on its way.
*I also ordered a Pocket Microscope on Amazon for $13 to check my edge after each step.

 

[Asian8640]

In my very limited experience with straight razors, you're going to want to get either the very high grit stone, ultra fine 3um or 1um mylar lapping paper or, 1um diamond stropping compound for your strop in addition to your current setup. The reason for this is that razors need to have very refined edges for comfort so that you don't irritate the skin with a coarse edge. Don't stop at green chromium oxide buffing compound because it generally isn't fine enough for comfort.

 

[JesusisLord]

In my very limited experience with straight razors, you're going to want to get either the very high grit stone, ultra fine 3um or 1um mylar lapping paper or, 1um diamond stropping compound for your strop in addition to your current setup. The reason for this is that razors need to have very refined edges for comfort so that you don't irritate the skin with a coarse edge.

I currently have two paddle strops, one loaded with 1 micron Gunny Juice and the other with 0.5 micron DMT. I also have three-inch hanging dual leather strop coming in the mail.

 

[blokey]

@stringer

 

[Asian8640]

I currently have two paddle strops, one loaded with 1 micron Gunny Juice and the other with 0.5 micron DMT. I also have three-inch hanging dual leather strop coming in the mail.

That sounds good enough as long as you make sure to refine the edge. Careful with the coarse grits. You really shouldn't use them at all unless you have a massive ding. Even 1k is quite coarse for a straight razor. You can do your maintenance on the 8k and polish again from there. You'll be doing much more stropping than stone work to keep that edge nice and polished. Also, if your 1k is the Suihero Cerax 1k, you need to keep it flattened. It dishes quickly but has the most consistent scratch pattern out of all the 1k stones I've used. You shouldn't be using the 1k for much of anything. save for setting bevels once in as blue moon. Otherwise, you'll end up wearing through your straight razors in no time.

 

[JesusisLord]

That sounds good enough as long as you make sure to refine the edge. Careful with the coarse grits. You really shouldn't use them at all unless you have a massive ding. Even 1k is quite coarse for a straight razor. You can do your maintenance on the 8k and polish again from there. You'll be doing much more stropping than stone work to keep that edge nice and polished. Also, if your 1k is the Suihero Cerax 1k, you need to keep it flattened. It dishes quickly but has the most consistent scratch pattern out of all the 1k stones I've used. You shouldn't be using the 1k for much of anything. save for setting bevels once in as blue moon. Otherwise, you'll end up wearing through your straight razors in no time.

Thanks for the information.

 

[Hassanbensober]

You can definitely get a shave able edge with what you got there. Brand new Thiers probably shouldn’t be going on a 1k out of the box. I would definitely consider getting some beaters to play around with as well as it won’t be so critical if you have troubles.
It’s super relaxing and fun enjoy

 

[JesusisLord]

You can definitely get a shave able edge with what you got there. Brand new Thiers probably shouldn’t be going on a 1k out of the box. I would definitely consider getting some beaters to play around with as well as it won’t be so critical if you have troubles.
It’s super relaxing and fun enjoy

Thank you! I'm eager to see how the Thiers razor turns out when it arrives, and I’ve heard great things about Thiers as a reliable brand. I definitely want to avoid wearing out a brand-new razor, so I probably look around for some beater razors to practice on like you mentioned and not use my 1k sharpening stone. I'm happy I made this post.

I also agree with you on the enjoyment factor. I find sharpening knives relaxing, so I’m sure that maintaining and sharpening a straight razor will be just as enjoyable for me.

 

[cotedupy]

I would tape the spine if I were you, and I’d start at 3k.

Ideally at some point you may want a finer stone than an 8k synth. But it’ll get you to a pretty reasonable level for sure.

Good luck!

 

[JesusisLord]

I would tape the spine if I were you, and I’d start at 3k.

Ideally at some point you may want a finer stone than an 8k synth. But it’ll get you to a pretty reasonable level for sure.

Good luck!

Thanks! I plan to use Super 88 Electrical tape for the spine. I'll start with a 3k grit stone and skip the 1k grit.

Could you recommend any higher grit finishing stones? While I appreciate the affordability of lapping film, I think I find myself gravitating towards stones.

 

[stringer]

I never go below 1500 unless there is massive damage. SG8k is a perfectly acceptable finisher.

 

[Koop]

Pay close attention to your first stone (3k?). Getting the bevel set all across the edge is crucial, any work after that is wasted time if step one isn't properly completed.

 

[JesusisLord]

I never go below 1500 unless there is massive damage. SG8k is a perfectly acceptable finisher.

That's a solid approach. Keeping it at 1500 grit unless there's serious damage helps maintain the integrity of the blade, and good to know that SG8k is an acceptable finisher.

 

[JesusisLord]

Pay close attention to your first stone (3k?). Getting the bevel set all across the edge is crucial, any work after that is wasted time if step one isn't properly completed.

Makes sense. Thanks!

 

[Legion74]

My experience with honing new TI razors for people is that they can often be a PITA to set the initial bevel on. I'm not sure if they are honed on belts in the factory, but the factory edge, combined with the hardness that TI treat their razors to, can often take a lot longer to put right than a lot of other razors.

My first step would be take your 3k stone, a powerful loupe and a sharpie, and do the old sharpie test to make sure you are hitting the apex along the whole edge. If you are not, be prepared to go to the 1k stone and be on it for a while.

 

[JesusisLord]

Thanks, you make a good point. They probably use machines rather than hand-honing with stones to get the edge.

I’m definitely familiar with the Sharpie method. That’s what I used when I first started sharpening knives. I’ll give your method a try.

 

[user 52613]

Maybe try shaving with it before putting it to the stones?

 

[Legion74]

Maybe try shaving with it before putting it to the stones?

And here lies the problem. Since it is his first straight razor he really does not have a benchmark for what a properly honed straight razor should feel like.

Generally speaking, on the razor forums the usual recommendation is to get your first razor honed by an expert. That way, when you hone your own, or even just touch up the first one, you have a solid point to aim for.

Also, when you are learning to shave with it you can feel fairly confident that any difficulties are a result of your technique, and the razor is not to blame.

 

[SammieM]

As mentioned before the SP 1k is on the coarse side. The SP 1.5k is similar to other 1k stones.
If you want to stay synthetic, the Naniwa SS 12k is a great stone. After that for refinement you can load a bench strop with that black Herold paste gently and you’ll get a great edge for shaving. I haven’t tried Gunny juice, but I have tried diamond pasted on balsa and I find the edges a bit harsh, albeit I had taken mine to 0.1 micron.
You should watch your pressure when honing as well. Also, it is not a bad idea to run the razor on glass rim without pressure 2-3 times before staring with the 3k. As you progress every 10 laps or so check if it cuts hair at skin level all along the edge or you can even try the cherry tomato skin. It should shave thin slices without much pressure…
You didn’t mention if the razor is a new production or a vintage one. The new steel C135 that TI uses is harder than the vintage steel…
Good luck!

 

[JesusisLord]

As mentioned before the SP 1k is on the coarse side. The SP 1.5k is similar to other 1k stones.
If you want to stay synthetic, the Naniwa SS 12k is a great stone. After that for refinement you can load a bench strop with that black Herold paste gently and you’ll get a great edge for shaving. I haven’t tried Gunny juice, but I have tried diamond pasted on balsa and I find the edges a bit harsh, albeit I had taken mine to 0.1 micron.
You should watch your pressure when honing as well. Also, it is not a bad idea to run the razor on glass rim without pressure 2-3 times before staring with the 3k. As you progress every 10 laps or so check if it cuts hair at skin level all along the edge or you can even try the cherry tomato skin. It should shave thin slices without much pressure…
You didn’t mention if the razor is a new production or a vintage one. The new steel C135 that TI uses is harder than the vintage steel…
Good luck!

I appreciate the advice! Just to clarify, I have the Suehiro Cerax 1k, which is true to its grit, not the Shapton Pro. I'll definitely keep your tip in mind about checking the edge every 10 laps to see if it's cutting hair. As for stropping, I plan to use straight leather for my first shave. If it feels like there's any tugging, I'll consider adding a leather compound. Initially, I was going to use a leather compound if my final step was the 8k stone, but with the 12k stone on the way, I think going straight to leather should work just fine.

And regarding the razor, it is indeed factory new, as I mentioned in the first sentence of my post at the top. But you're right about the C135 steel, it’s likely to take a bit longer to hone due to its hardness.

 

[SammieM]

I appreciate the advice! Just to clarify, I have the Suehiro Cerax 1k, which is true to its grit, not the Shapton Pro. I'll definitely keep your tip in mind about checking the edge every 10 laps to see if it's cutting hair. As for stropping, I plan to use straight leather for my first shave. If it feels like there's any tugging, I'll consider adding a leather compound. Initially, I was going to use a leather compound if my final step was the 8k stone, but with the 12k stone on the way, I think going straight to leather should work just fine.

And regarding the razor, it is indeed factory new, as I mentioned in the first sentence of my post at the top. But you're right about the C135 steel, it’s likely to take a bit longer to hone due to its hardness.

Sounds like you are all set.
I love the C135 steel. Holds an edge great.
I personally wouldn’t skip the linen. If you have a wire edge it will clean it and the leather will straighten it… I do about 60/60 linen/leather after initial honing and about 20/40 between shaves..

 

[cotedupy]

And here lies the problem. Since it is his first straight razor he really does not have a benchmark for what a properly honed straight razor should feel like.

Generally speaking, on the razor forums the usual recommendation is to get your first razor honed by an expert. That way, when you hone your own, or even just touch up the first one, you have a solid point to aim for.

^This^ is exceptionally good advice. In fact I got my first straight from Legion74, and having that benchmark to aim for is invaluable when trying to learn the (really quite nuanced) art of honing a razor.

If you put up a ‘WTB’ - I’m sure there are a few people in the US here who would send you a really well honed old razor for not a huge amount of money. A lot of old straights don’t cost all that much, so people who are into them often have loads.

 

[stringer]

^This^ is exceptionally good advice. In fact I got my first straight from Legion74, and having that benchmark to aim for is invaluable when trying to learn the (really quite nuanced) art of honing a razor.

If you put up a ‘WTB’ - I’m sure there are a few people in the US here who would send you a really well honed old razor for not a huge amount of money. A lot of old straights don’t cost all that much, so people who are into them often have loads.

@JesusisLord

DM me if you are interested. I have a few extras

 

[deltaplex]

@JesusisLord

DM me if you are interested. I have a few extras

View attachment 343647

I think you can only have extra if there's a whole other cabinet for "storage" of the ones you're not regularly using.

 

[M1k3]

I think you can only have extra if there's a whole other cabinet for "storage" of the ones you're not regularly using.

I'm pretty sure he has 100-200 extra

 

[JesusisLord]

@JesusisLord

DM me if you are interested. I have a few extras

View attachment 343647

Thank you for the offer! I actually just ordered a Gold Dollar razor from AliExpress for about $7. I’m mainly looking to get a feel for honing, so I’m not too concerned if it’s not shave-ready. The reviews mentioned it’s sharp, though I’m taking that with a grain of salt.

 

[stringer]

Thank you for the offer! I actually just ordered a Gold Dollar razor from AliExpress for about $7. I’m mainly looking to get a feel for honing, so I’m not too concerned if it’s not shave-ready. The reviews mentioned it’s sharp, though I’m taking that with a grain of salt.

Gold Dollars are terrible straight razors. I have several of them. They require a lot of work to get half decent and they will never perform better than half decent. The geometry sucks and they have very poor quality control. Vintage straight razors are far easier to deal with.

 

[JesusisLord]

Gold Dollars are terrible straight razors. I have several of them. They require a lot of work to get half decent and they will never perform better than half decent. The geometry sucks and they have very poor quality control. Vintage straight razors are far easier to deal with.

I’ve watched a lot of videos on sharpening straight razors, and it doesn’t seem too difficult. I regularly sharpen knives and am quite familiar with whetstones. I’m not planning to shave with the Gold Dollar razor; I’m just using it to get a feel for honing a straight razor. I’m not expecting much from it. Just looking to practice the technique.

 

[Mr Kooby Shemayrew]

Update:
*Ordered, ordered, ordered, ordered
*More ordered, ordered, ordered, ordered.

My Man!

 

[Legion74]

Gold Dollars can be ok, but as mentioned above, their man issue is quality control, so it is pot luck if you get an ok one, a basket case, or something in the middle. Most of them can be turned into a half decent shaver with work, but they are not what I would consider a beginner project.

To start with, put it on your 1k hone without tape, and wail on it until the spine matches the bevel, and the bevel is set. Don't worry about spine wear, in fact you will want to wear the spine until it is all square. Once you get the bevel set it should hone easily enough. Depending on the razor you may need to grind down the stabilisers to begin with.