J-Nat Club

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Not yet sadly, work has been busy the past week, but I'm going to try your suggestion when I do. Yeah, the okudo is very clean aside from the two slight depressions in the bottom left corner and has some light renge which didn't really come out in the photo.
 
My very modest new stone, a Mizuhikara suita (from MM)

.

It is a budget stone (MAX 150mmx87mmx25mm), but I am pretty impressed with how quick it kicks up swarf and the finish.
(I only have a very hard Aoto from Kameoka, oohira tomae and JNS Shoubudani type 100 to compare).
 
Nice pickup. That's a decent size and a good width, which to me is the most important of the dimensions. Plus when the price is right, who can complain! Enjoy.
 
OK I'm lm still learning a lot about Naturals too and have amassed a small collection but this stone looks intimidating. Are you going to prepare it or just go at it? If you could post some pics of the stone and the edge after use. Would be most helpful.

My take on stones is that there is a looooot of confusion and misconception out there, really hocus pocus. Because each stone is slightly different with infinite variations, its impossible to know how it will perform for you.

Also, your sharpening technique and steel to be sharpened will change the behavior of different stones. Naguras. OM MY.

I will say that I do believe that I can produce the sharpest longest lasting edge on them.

I also think that if you have good sharpening technique, and you get a clean rock from someone that know something about them, you'll be able to get good or great edges. Don't be afraid, just get something and get cracking.

riba said:
My very modest new stone, a Mizuhikara suita (from MM)

.

It is a budget stone (MAX 150mmx87mmx25mm), but I am pretty impressed with how quick it kicks up swarf and the finish.
(I only have a very hard Aoto from Kameoka, oohira tomae and JNS Shoubudani type 100 to compare).
Click to expand...
 
Mucho Bocho said:
OK I'm lm still learning a lot about Naturals too and have amassed a small collection but this stone looks intimidating. Are you going to prepare it or just go at it? If you could post some pics of the stone and the edge after use. Would be most helpful.

My take on stones is that there is a looooot of confusion and misconception out there, really hocus pocus. Because each stone is slightly different with infinite variations, its impossible to know how it will perform for you.

Also, your sharpening technique and steel to be sharpened will change the behavior of different stones. Naguras. OM MY.

I will say that I do believe that I can produce the sharpest longest lasting edge on them.

I also think that if you have good sharpening technique, and you get a clean rock from someone that know something about them, you'll be able to get good or great edges. Don't be afraid, just get something and get cracking.
Click to expand...

I am under the impression that I don't need to do much to the surface (but any suggestions are welcome here -- read: newbie). The stone itself is flat (and the edges were chambered). I am considering putting some nail polish on the sides to protect it. It does have some holes in the surface, but fortunately enough I don't feel them at all while sharpening. (In what way does it look intimidating?).

I started my JNAT journey with my razorhone (a shoubudani type 100) but didn't manage to get a nice edge. After I bought a pretty hard aoto (8.5 according AframesTokyo) I suddenly managed to get some results with my shoubudani too. Funny how that sometimes works. (the aoto gives a pretty nice gyuto edge btw).
Some time later I bought a Oohira tomae (2nd hand, originally from JNS), but I guess my technique is still insufficient as the edge gets less sharp when I use it :D
With all the recent JNAT activity on the forum, I couldn't restrain myself and bought this Mizuhikara. Must say I am pretty impressed how easy it is to use and how nice (contrasty) the polish is (along with a nice edge).
I will soon make some pics of the stone in use and of the resulting polish :)

I am making this journey at a leisurely pace, as my 3YO daughter takes up most of my free time (and budget ;) hehehe )
 
I'd lacquer the sides with your choice of protective agent (nail polish is fine) just for peace of mind and to protect your investment, but otherwise, as long as there are no problem spots on the surface that cause you issues while sharpening and you said the edges are fine, so it sounds like its good to go. Little holes aren't uncommon. Sometimes they are natural or result from where the dealer has dug out a small bit of inclusion. I've had several stones that started with a small hole or depression that were subsequently removed with sharpening and lapping, no big deal. Common sense is usually enough to tell you when something might be an issue.
 
My advice from Maxim was to prepare by flattening with an Atoma 140 (or equivalent) to both clean the surface from decades of absorbed grime and contaminants, and ensure it is dead flat. Round over the edges a bit more while you are at it. After that, I use a nagura to recondition the surface (that is now a little cut up from the Atoma), and then use.

If you use all parts of the stone when sharpening, including rotating the stone 180 degrees from time to time, you can maintain it with a nagura for a long while before it should need flattening again, if ever.

Cheers

J :)
 
Mute-on said:
My advice from Maxim was to prepare by flattening with an Atoma 140 (or equivalent) to both clean the surface from decades of absorbed grime and contaminants, and ensure it is dead flat. Round over the edges a bit more while you are at it. After that, I use a nagura to recondition the surface (that is now a little cut up from the Atoma), and then use.

If you use all parts of the stone when sharpening, including rotating the stone 180 degrees from time to time, you can maintain it with a nagura for a long while before it should need flattening again, if ever.

Cheers

J :)
Click to expand...

Clear answer indeed.
I was too lazy to write it. 100% correctly.
Just a remark- having used many other i must admit that Atoma 140 is the best solution ever.
- very effective
- long lasting
- affordable in comparison to others( DMT lapping stone, Shapton lapping diamond plate etc)
Having an impressive collection of Tennen Toishi ( read: lapping/ flattening/ fixing for years) i decided to grab a new one Atoma 140 only a month ago). Still keeping the old one.. greedy greedy?? Not really ( though who knows[emoji23][emoji23][emoji41]). You can always use it to work on edges, to use it as a kinda Nagura after aggressive ( new) Atoma etc.

Cheers
 
Was curious so I finally ended up with one of these silly things.
Qv2a4x7.jpg
 
Best lay some metal on it and get scraping. Despite your modesty, I look forward to seeing your handiwork.
 
brooksie967 said:
Must be nice to have that stuff "locally". Canada is the absolute worst for knives and stones :(
Click to expand...

I see your 'canada-is-bad-for-knives-stone' and I raise you 'UK-is-freqing-awful-for-knives-and-stones'
 
Cheers. I was feeling guilty about having too many stones.
 
Ugh, you guys are killing me. I had just about managed to convince myself that I don't need more stones. Lovely maruoyama, Otto. A maruoyama suita has been top of my list for a long while.
 
tgfencer said:
Ugh, you guys are killing me. I had just about managed to convince myself that I don't need more stones. Lovely maruoyama, Otto. A maruoyama suita has been top of my list for a long while.
Click to expand...

That maruoyama is as good as it gets. Prett tricky to get a hold of for an active mine. Their website is nearly permanently out of stock for smaller reasonably priced stones, Watanabe is tapped out, and they're never on BST.
 
Yeah tell me about it, finding something I can afford and also a decent size is difficult. I've had a few absolute beauties come on my radar but they've been way to pricey. Its top of my Japan trip wishlist, so hopefully I'll luck out during my visit this spring.
 
TheCaptain said:
*Snort* Says the stone meister himself, then goes to prove my point with his next post...
Click to expand...

I laughed at this too.

May I ask something, are Jnats good for Aogami Super and R2, or only for simpler alloys?

I'm always browsing these natural threads and I'm curious by the use of those. Not that I foresee committing (read spending) in jnats. Too much for our pockets at the moment.

Thanks
 
guari said:
I laughed at this too.

May I ask something, are Jnats good for Aogami Super and R2, or only for simpler alloys?

I'm always browsing these natural threads and I'm curious by the use of those. Not that I foresee committing (read spending) in jnats. Too much for our pockets at the moment.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have a couple finishers that are great on AS. Dunno about R2.
 
What is your j-nat of choice for a pm steel gyuto like the 240 Shiro Kamo R-2 ?
Now I am finishing on Chosera 3k and like that edge a lot.
Tried on the Khao Men from Miles but did not really like the edge it produced.
 
GRoc said:
What is your j-nat of choice for a pm steel gyuto like the 240 Shiro Kamo R-2 ?
Now I am finishing on Chosera 3k and like that edge a lot.
Tried on the Khao Men from Miles but did not really like the edge it produced.
Click to expand...

I have a 210 Shibata Kotetsu R-2 and like the edges I get off a Shiden Suita that I would place in the 4000 grit range. No experience with Shiro Kamo R-2 but if you are finishing an edge on a well formed bevel I believe many J-nats can effectively cut pm steel but not as fast as synthetics. Also most J-nat finishers will be finer then your Chosera 3k and would give you a more polished edge.
 
GRoc said:
What is your j-nat of choice for a pm steel gyuto like the 240 Shiro Kamo R-2 ?
Now I am finishing on Chosera 3k and like that edge a lot.
Tried on the Khao Men from Miles but did not really like the edge it produced.
Click to expand...
:2cents:
I'm not very experienced at this but I've recently been happy with the results on R2 steels by finishing on a Yaginoshima. Seems to be even better when used with a Tsushima nagura. Still experimenting.
 
Doug said:
I have a 210 Shibata Kotetsu R-2 and like the edges I get off a Shiden Suita that I would place in the 4000 grit range. No experience with Shiro Kamo R-2 but if you are finishing an edge on a well formed bevel I believe many J-nats can effectively cut pm steel but not as fast as synthetics. Also most J-nat finishers will be finer then your Chosera 3k and would give you a more polished edge.
Click to expand...

Exactly this. I find harder Suita and aggressive Kyoto finishers do the business on my kotetsu. Almost a pity it needs sharpening so infrequently
 
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