Been a while since I posted anything but have had a few days off work and have been able to get into the workshop.
Making a saya is quite straight forward, just needs a bit of effort in preparing the stock, and then plenty of trial fits.
Started off with a piece of reclaimed Teak, looks a bit scrappy now but there's some good timber inside
Saw off a piece about 15mm wider than the knife and a bit longer
Next stage is to rip it in two. A bandsaw comes in handy here, but before I had one I made do with a handsaw and a bit of effort. I aim for one piece 12mm thick and one 8mm thick.
Helps to label the two inside faces for when it comes to gluing them back together. Then trace around the profile of the knife on the thicker of the two pieces. Extending the line of the edge all the way to the end of the board
Now to hollowing out a recess for the knife. I find a shallow gouge across the grain works best for this, having cut down along the line for the spine with a knife.
Being Teak it was hard on the edges of the tools so I kept the stones and the strop close by
I find forming a recess in just the one side easier as you only have to do one side... keep chiselling out the waste until the knife sits flush within the recess. If you are aiming for a friction fit, which I am, you need to take off just enough that the knife will fit snugly.
This is just about there
Up till I've got the recess almost formed I keep the boards square as it's easier to clamp and hold the stock. Now though it's time to roughly trim the profile to match the knife
Making a saya is quite straight forward, just needs a bit of effort in preparing the stock, and then plenty of trial fits.
Started off with a piece of reclaimed Teak, looks a bit scrappy now but there's some good timber inside
Saw off a piece about 15mm wider than the knife and a bit longer
Next stage is to rip it in two. A bandsaw comes in handy here, but before I had one I made do with a handsaw and a bit of effort. I aim for one piece 12mm thick and one 8mm thick.
Helps to label the two inside faces for when it comes to gluing them back together. Then trace around the profile of the knife on the thicker of the two pieces. Extending the line of the edge all the way to the end of the board
Now to hollowing out a recess for the knife. I find a shallow gouge across the grain works best for this, having cut down along the line for the spine with a knife.
Being Teak it was hard on the edges of the tools so I kept the stones and the strop close by
I find forming a recess in just the one side easier as you only have to do one side... keep chiselling out the waste until the knife sits flush within the recess. If you are aiming for a friction fit, which I am, you need to take off just enough that the knife will fit snugly.
This is just about there
Up till I've got the recess almost formed I keep the boards square as it's easier to clamp and hold the stock. Now though it's time to roughly trim the profile to match the knife