Grayswandir
Senior Member
That's an interesting idea! I might just try that, sounds like a good way to make the stone sit level in the box.
Need some advice. Making a base for a natural stone.
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That's an interesting idea! I might just try that, sounds like a good way to make the stone sit level in the box.
Bobby2shots
Senior Member
The only concern I have with that particular idea, is the drying-time/hardening of the silicone when it's between the two layers of plastic wrap. (no air circulation to aid hardening) Mind you, that silicone layer would be quite thin, so it may only require an extra day or two. That's one reason you might want to build a prototype first. You wouldn't necessarily need to use your good wood or stone for that experiment. The goal there is simply to determine how the silicone reacts and hardens between the plastic wrap layers.
There's so many ways you can go about this. One way could be building a separate box for storage. You'd mount your stone to a simple flat base which could be hand-held, and when you're done sharpening, you could store your base/stone inside that box. The box itself could take many forms; for example; it could be a fancy box with a lid that flips open (hinges),,,,, or, the box could be a simple sleeve,,, open on one end or one side,,, allowing you to slide the base/stone into the box. Another option could be using the top of that separate box as a platform for elevating your stone/base. Just sit that separate stone/base right on top of the box. All sorts of possibilities.
There's so many ways you can go about this. One way could be building a separate box for storage. You'd mount your stone to a simple flat base which could be hand-held, and when you're done sharpening, you could store your base/stone inside that box. The box itself could take many forms; for example; it could be a fancy box with a lid that flips open (hinges),,,,, or, the box could be a simple sleeve,,, open on one end or one side,,, allowing you to slide the base/stone into the box. Another option could be using the top of that separate box as a platform for elevating your stone/base. Just sit that separate stone/base right on top of the box. All sorts of possibilities.
Grayswandir
Senior Member
I'mm thinking about using magnets, rather then the more tradition clasp. I think the simple base can become the bottom of the box.
@Bobby2shots thanks for all the help. I'm feeling like I'm starting to get a handle on all this woodworking stuff (at least understanding it).
I ended up finding an old no. 4 and restoring it as well. The guy that sold it to me said he restored it already, which was a lie. He covered it in shellac or something. I had to remove all of it, along with all the rust. Then go about flattening and all the normal parts of fixing a plane up.
I'll post some pictures of it after the repairs tomorrow if I remember.
At least it was in better condition than it looked, and had a lot less pitting than my 5 1/2
I ended up finding an old no. 4 and restoring it as well. The guy that sold it to me said he restored it already, which was a lie. He covered it in shellac or something. I had to remove all of it, along with all the rust. Then go about flattening and all the normal parts of fixing a plane up.
I'll post some pictures of it after the repairs tomorrow if I remember.
At least it was in better condition than it looked, and had a lot less pitting than my 5 1/2
Bobby2shots
Senior Member
Well, it looks to me like you're scoring some great iron. 
This thread has kinda rejuvenated my interest as well. It's been too long since I've spent time in the shop.
Rejuvenating older hand-planes is just a great pass-time, and as long as they're not seriously damaged, such as a crack in the sole, next to the mouth, then you're usually OK. Parts are readily available, including some great plane-irons from companies like Lee Valley Tools. Hock is another outfit that sells upgraded irons. Rust is the least of your worries, and even the worst cases can easily be taken care of with electrolysis.
FWIW, I'm becoming a Paul Sellers fan too. Watching him working with wood, is much like watching Jacques Pepin working with food. No wasted motion, and perfection at every step of the way. Demanding only the best from their efforts.
That No.4 should be a joy to use once it's shown a little TLC. Since the blade is narrower than the 5-1/2, it's also easier to push through a cut. It would also be a much better choice than the 5-1/2 for converting to a scrub-plane,,, but you'd have to open the throat considerably. I'd continue using the #4 as a smoother, and wait for a decent #3 to come along if you need a scrub-plane. Or, better yet, wait for an actual scrub to come along. (#40). Scrub planes are not expensive, and narrower blade of the #40 is probably your best bet compared to a wider #40-1/2. (easier to push through rough lumber.
One thing you'll have to check into when working with hand-planes, is "winding sticks". You'll need those to visually check into your progress as you thickness-plane and flatten a board. All you need are two straight edges, and place them at opposite ends of the board you're working on. You simply bend down and see how the top edges of those winding sticks line up. So simple, yet so effective.
This thread has kinda rejuvenated my interest as well. It's been too long since I've spent time in the shop.Rejuvenating older hand-planes is just a great pass-time, and as long as they're not seriously damaged, such as a crack in the sole, next to the mouth, then you're usually OK. Parts are readily available, including some great plane-irons from companies like Lee Valley Tools. Hock is another outfit that sells upgraded irons. Rust is the least of your worries, and even the worst cases can easily be taken care of with electrolysis.
FWIW, I'm becoming a Paul Sellers fan too. Watching him working with wood, is much like watching Jacques Pepin working with food. No wasted motion, and perfection at every step of the way. Demanding only the best from their efforts.
That No.4 should be a joy to use once it's shown a little TLC. Since the blade is narrower than the 5-1/2, it's also easier to push through a cut. It would also be a much better choice than the 5-1/2 for converting to a scrub-plane,,, but you'd have to open the throat considerably. I'd continue using the #4 as a smoother, and wait for a decent #3 to come along if you need a scrub-plane. Or, better yet, wait for an actual scrub to come along. (#40). Scrub planes are not expensive, and narrower blade of the #40 is probably your best bet compared to a wider #40-1/2. (easier to push through rough lumber.
One thing you'll have to check into when working with hand-planes, is "winding sticks". You'll need those to visually check into your progress as you thickness-plane and flatten a board. All you need are two straight edges, and place them at opposite ends of the board you're working on. You simply bend down and see how the top edges of those winding sticks line up. So simple, yet so effective.
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Bobby2shots
Senior Member
Uh oh,,,, it looks like I never should have read this thread,,,,,,; I've got the "fever",,,, again. Thanks to Paul Sellers, I'll be ordering a Veritas Large Router plane next week from Lee Valley Tools, and, as soon as they're back in stock, I'll be ordering a couple more Veritas large tenon saws. (filed rip and crosscut). I'm thinking of rebuilding my workbench to the classic English Joiners' (Cabinet-Maker) style. I've already got a couple of the older Record vises (7" and a 9") with "dogs", and I need to locate a source for quality straight-grained lumber, or, I may go with a laminated plywood top.
Yesterday, while digging around in my closets, I found a cardboard box with a few "treasures" that I had mostly forgotten about; two Lie-Nielsen leather tool-rolls with a complete set of Lie-Nielsen screwdrivers in one pouch, and a bunch of Lie-Nielsen bevel-edge socket chisels in the other. The screwdrivers are patterned after gun-smith screwdrivers, and precisely fit the screw-slots on every hand-plane and backsaw Lie-Nielsen makes. Curly-maple handles,,, they're gorgeous. The chisels are A2 tool steel.
In the same box was a couple of Japanese chisels, a Lie-Nielsen square, and a Lie-Nielsen round-head mallet.
Yesterday, while digging around in my closets, I found a cardboard box with a few "treasures" that I had mostly forgotten about; two Lie-Nielsen leather tool-rolls with a complete set of Lie-Nielsen screwdrivers in one pouch, and a bunch of Lie-Nielsen bevel-edge socket chisels in the other. The screwdrivers are patterned after gun-smith screwdrivers, and precisely fit the screw-slots on every hand-plane and backsaw Lie-Nielsen makes. Curly-maple handles,,, they're gorgeous. The chisels are A2 tool steel.
In the same box was a couple of Japanese chisels, a Lie-Nielsen square, and a Lie-Nielsen round-head mallet.
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Grayswandir
Senior Member
Very nice, beautiful handles.
Those chisels look nice kind of like my Stanley 750 Sweartheart chisels I bought when they first came out a few years ago. A couple of mine needed a lot of work to flatten the backs.
PalmRoyale
Senior Member
Okay, so here's how I do the base thing and I'm a shipwright so I know a thing or two about joining materials. First, seal the bottom and sides of the stone, preferably with epoxy resin and let it cure. If the bottom of the stone is uneven, lightly sand the cured epoxy on the bottom, make a raised edge with masking tape, make another batch of epoxy resin and pour it on the stone. Let the epoxy cure, remove the tape and sand the epoxy layer flat. Now you can glue it to whatever you want. I prefer MS Polymer sealant because it's high strength, it says somewhat flexible and it's waterproof.
Bobby2shots
Senior Member
Actually, those Lie-Nielsen socket chisels are patterned directly after the old Stanley 750's. Unfortunately, the newer versions have not matched the quality of the originals. The Lie-Nielsens are more expensive, but you get the choice of A2 and O1 steels (when available) and the backs are flat out of the box.
