Saya Process

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captaincaed

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Decided to make a saya for the B-grind, and basically did it as stupid as possible at every step. But! I think it's coming out pretty well despite my stupidity. It's in the oil stage, which will take a while, and I'll post a final pic when its all done.
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The last step of hand sanding flat was a bear. Note to self, don't sand the planks almond-shaped with the orbital.
 
Nice work, do you have to do anything to stop grit getting embedded in the wood when sanding? I never sure if I’m being paranoid by only planing, chiselling or rasping inner surfaces
Is the oil finish tru-oil
 
Very nice work!

How much time in all did it take you?

And how much time would it take for the next one 😜?
Haha waaaay too long. If I were smart, I’d have started with a portaband, would have resawed smarter, wouldn’t have used chisels (osage is terrible for tear-out) etc etc etc

I can do it with the tools I have, but not efficiently
 
Nice work, do you have to do anything to stop grit getting embedded in the wood when sanding? I never sure if I’m being paranoid by only planing, chiselling or rasping inner surfaces
Is the oil finish tru-oil
Thanks! Grit hasn’t really been a worry. Stiff brush and vacuum at the end, cover with oil. You can’t plane osage, so sanding was my only option. Finish is tru-oil
 
Thanks! Grit hasn’t really been a worry. Stiff brush and vacuum at the end, cover with oil. You can’t plane osage, so sanding was my only option. Finish is tru-oil

Good to know, yeah some of the gnarly stuff with alternating grain is annoying for tear out- light backbevel to increase the angle of attack helps a bit, but if you get the cap iron really snugged up on the edge it can really help. Some of the Tropicana with silica in end up sending me to the sharpening stones every few minutes- hence always worrying I’m overthinking!
Good to know you’re not having any issues!

I really like tru oil but ended up wasting half of every bottle I got as it polymerised in the bottle. Should give it another try again
 
Good to know, yeah some of the gnarly stuff with alternating grain is annoying for tear out- light backbevel to increase the angle of attack helps a bit, but if you get the cap iron really snugged up on the edge it can really help. Some of the Tropicana with silica in end up sending me to the sharpening stones every few minutes- hence always worrying I’m overthinking!
Good to know you’re not having any issues!

I really like tru oil but ended up wasting half of every bottle I got as it polymerised in the bottle. Should give it another try again
You maybe able to save it by adding some mineral spirits? Although I suppose a new can wouldn't be wallet breaking.

@captaincaed, great first go around! Looks like it fits like a glove. 👍
 
Good to know, yeah some of the gnarly stuff with alternating grain is annoying for tear out- light backbevel to increase the angle of attack helps a bit, but if you get the cap iron really snugged up on the edge it can really help. Some of the Tropicana with silica in end up sending me to the sharpening stones every few minutes- hence always worrying I’m overthinking!
Good to know you’re not having any issues!

I really like tru oil but ended up wasting half of every bottle I got as it polymerised in the bottle. Should give it another try again
Wet sanding very fine the first 3-4 coats thinned with mineral spirits helps get an even finish.
 
Thanks! That rounds to 2.4mm. I'm getting 4mm brass for handle pins and thought it could be ok for sayas as well. Kinda sounds a bit too thick right now in comparison... And guess what, that's the "whatever the store has" in my case :D No thinner, no thicker.

And I should have said this to start with: Awesome work :)
 
Hey thanks!

What are you working on for the rehandle?

I think 4mm stock will be just fine, just make sure the saya frame (the middle third of the sandwich) is wide enough to handle it.

Couple of Masamotos that are in quite bad shape (one 270mm gyuto actually missing the whole tang) and some cheaper knives too. A stainless Sukehisa gyuto for example and a real wild card bunka that says "Hi-Sharp" on the blade (3 layers with a carbon steel core I think). I'll definitely start a thread on those!
 
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