The difficulty with power sharpening and hard steels is probably impact with the fairly coarse abrasive at high speed. Hard steels are all more likely to crack under those conditions, even with a light touch on the belt, so you have an edge with micro-cracks. Those micro-cracks will grow under stress in use, and result in micro-chips.
Hand sharpen those chips out using fairly fine stones and you have removed the micro-cracks without adding new ones, so the edge is much more stable.
Coarse abrasives even in hand sharpening can do the same thing -- back 40 years ago I was warned to use only natural stones, preferably Japanese water stones, on high hardness Japanese chisels, and avoid hardwoods with them. Synthetic stones tended to induce stress cracking in the edge, and prying in American hardwoods could pop rather large chunks off the edge. High hardness carbon steel is brittle! Takes an amazing edge for use in softwoods.
Hand sharpen those chips out using fairly fine stones and you have removed the micro-cracks without adding new ones, so the edge is much more stable.
Coarse abrasives even in hand sharpening can do the same thing -- back 40 years ago I was warned to use only natural stones, preferably Japanese water stones, on high hardness Japanese chisels, and avoid hardwoods with them. Synthetic stones tended to induce stress cracking in the edge, and prying in American hardwoods could pop rather large chunks off the edge. High hardness carbon steel is brittle! Takes an amazing edge for use in softwoods.