"simple stainless gyuto" - what would be your pick?

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This thread is acting weird. It shows up under "New posts" then I click the second page and the last post it says is from daddy yo yo but the last on the thread is Pensacola Tigers?

It's been acting strange since last night. Seemed like the site crashed.
 
where are you getting tanaka g3 measurement from? the 240 one i handled (from metalmaster) was slightly thinner (guessing 3.5mm) but taller than the 270 i have 4mm x 53mm. although i've been told the g3 from cktg were custom ordered by mark and had shigeki grind them instead of hideyuki which the grind is just like the damascus version and are quite thin behind the edge.

2.4 x 47 is indeed thin and narrow as far as i'm concerned.

konosuke ginsan series is interesting, i like the grind still narrow but i'm weird and like tall gyutos. maybe it's a proper grown up version of tanaka g3?
 
where are you getting tanaka g3 measurement from? the 240 one i handled (from metalmaster) was slightly thinner (guessing 3.5mm) but taller than the 270 i have 4mm x 53mm. although i've been told the g3 from cktg were custom ordered by mark and had shigeki grind them instead of hideyuki which the grind is just like the damascus version and are quite thin behind the edge.

2.4 x 47 is indeed thin and narrow as far as i'm concerned.

konosuke ginsan series is interesting, i like the grind still narrow but i'm weird and like tall gyutos. maybe it's a proper grown up version of tanaka g3?

My Tanaka came from Mark, so perhaps it is thinner than the ones that you get from MetalMaster.

I assume you consider the Misono Swedish (the Dragon) to be thin and narrow, with a 2.4 mm spine and a height at the heel of 49 mm. I consider it to be a "middle of the road" gyuto, just like the CarboNEXT.

Part of the problem is that terms like "laser" and "workhorse" are thrown around without any clear consensus of what they mean. It's almost as bad as "thin behind the edge".

Rick
 
Pensacola Tiger said:
Part of the problem is that terms like "laser" and "workhorse" are thrown around without any clear consensus of what they mean. It's almost as bad as "thin behind the edge".

Rick
And ****** knife has a"nice grind"
 
the thinnest knife i enjoyed for a while was a masamoto vg which was 2.5mm but was a bit taller than the rest at 52. it didn't have that much taper so didn't feel as flexy as other knives with similar spine thickness plus its profile is more santoku-like rather than the french pointy type hence i think there was more overall metal in the blade. i don't feel comfortable recommending it because the handle is rather awkward and choil is very sharp.

the dragon was one i never got around to trying, i went with masamoto hc as a no nonsense knife instead. maybe i'll get to play with one down the road.
 
I owned a misono swed and used pandas tanaka and let me say that the tanaka is a tad bit thicker. Metal master tanaka g3s are thicker than the ones mark carries. I measure everything i try and the tanaka 270mm from metal master had 3.0mm spine with practically no taper at all half way down the blade. I owned a mis swed 240 and i think the spine was thinner and even though it was on the light side and pretty thin i didnt really think of it as a laser. Both knives are great it just depends on the customers preference.
 
Hattori FH - best Western handle and nicely treated VG-10...or Ryusen Blazen - fantastic powdered steel, solid fit and finish, nice black saya included
 
OK guys. if things will work out than I should soon commit a custom project with Ian Rogers of Haburn knives :knife: Things are being discussed right now. Once the project starts I will try to give you guys some "live coverage" :)
 
I assume you consider the Misono Swedish (the Dragon) to be thin and narrow, with a 2.4 mm spine and a height at the heel of 49 mm. I consider it to be a "middle of the road" gyuto, just like the CarboNEXT.

Part of the problem is that terms like "laser" and "workhorse" are thrown around without any clear consensus of what they mean. It's almost as bad as "thin behind the edge".

Rick

+1 The term "workhorse" meaning a thicker knife is puzzling to me. Im not a pro, but I would consider a "workhorse" to be the knife that let's me perform the most amount of work for the longest period of time comfortably. For me, my Gesshin Ginga is still the most comfortable knife to use when I've had to cut for hours at a time.
 
Me too Matus, seems like a bunch of people are getting customs from Ian AWESOME!
 
Me too Matus, seems like a bunch of people are getting customs from Ian AWESOME!

And the great thing is that at the time there is no waiting time. I could have the knife in few weeks. I need to start that 'live view' thread - the blade design is already there!
 
It took him 11 days from discussing design to shipping completed knife. That's quite refreshing compared to endless waiting lists of other KKF makers
 
well… a chzbrgr knife apparently :)

It's a small gyuto or very tall petty with near flat profile. Very thin. Very stainless. Vert cheezburgerish

13085630293_8cd5f696bb_z.jpg

picture by Ian Rogers.

… shipping from Canada or US to Russia usually takes 3-4 weeks, so some of you could receive your knives before me :)
 
well… a chzbrgr knife apparently :)

It's a small gyuto or very tall petty with near flat profile. Very thin. Very stainless. Vert cheezburgerish

13085630293_8cd5f696bb_z.jpg

picture by Ian Rogers.

… shipping from Canada or US to Russia usually takes 3-4 weeks, so some of you could receive your knives before me :)

Very cool...reminds me of my Tosagata knife a little. The choil/heel isn't my style, but the handle looks great. If I wasn't on a temporary knife moratorium, I'd consider an order...
 
The blade is indeed very flat - what is the intended purpose of this knife?

I'm so tempted to say cheeseburgers… :)
That's going to be an all-around knife for my wife. She doesn't use any gyuto because she finds them too long. So she uses 150 pettys for all tasks. And with this knife I hope she could learn the benefits of pinch grip. I could have bough santoku, but when I saw those Haburn knives I couldn't resist
 
I indeed love the way it looks, but I would a bit unsure about the edge and very pointy tip. Please do let us know how it works once it arrives.
 
In addition to some other requirements, the original post mentioned wanting some blade "toughness" or chip resistance. some members recommended very high hrc knives (e.g. blazen & yoshikane). are these considered tough? I would have guessed them to be chip prone because of the high HRC but i'm not sure if i'm over-generalizing. does it depend on the maker / heat treat? I'm curious to know if other members have high HRC / PM blades that they consider tough.
 
I believe it depends on both the steel and the heat treat/maker. I like to think of steel like steak; a lousy chef will ruin a $30/lb dry aged steak. With the same steak, a good chef will cook up a perfectly seasoned medium rare piece of meat with a great crust. For what it's worth, I find my saji r2 gyuto is tougher than my hattori hd and they're about equally as thin behind the edge. The saji should clock in at 62-63 HRc while the hattori is ~ 60.
 
It seems like the OP has made up their mind on the subject, but just for further discussion....

I love MAC knives. It was my first 'real' (J-)knife and it has seen more abuse than most will probably put a knife through and just has that right feel to me. The handle, the balance, the weight -- it fits like a glove. Every time I pick it up, years later, it makes me happy.

But even though it is thinner and lighter, the (Gesshin) Ginga stainless is an amazing knife. Edge retention, ease of sharpening, sheer cutting ability - it continues to amaze me. I can't recommend them enough. It will require a higher degree of attention/knife skills during use but I see no reason why a Ginga couldn't be a workhorse. I use mine for practically everything.
 
In addition to some other requirements, the original post mentioned wanting some blade "toughness" or chip resistance. some members recommended very high hrc knives (e.g. blazen & yoshikane). are these considered tough? I would have guessed them to be chip prone because of the high HRC but i'm not sure if i'm over-generalizing. does it depend on the maker / heat treat? I'm curious to know if other members have high HRC / PM blades that they consider tough.
Sharp.
 
Hiromoto G3

I would second this. Way under your budget and for an all stainless knife. The OOTB edge is quite good and the knife is light and easy to use.

A few have mentioned the carbonext. But, if you are really looking for stainless, this is not the knife. It is "stain resistant", not stainless. It will still rust. Yes, it's easy to clean but if you don't want to deal with that. Then stay away from the carbonext.

On the higher side of your budget, the Gesshin Ginga is also quite nice.
 
I would second this. Way under your budget and for an all stainless knife. The OOTB edge is quite good and the knife is light and easy to use.

A few have mentioned the carbonext. But, if you are really looking for stainless, this is not the knife. It is "stain resistant", not stainless. It will still rust. Yes, it's easy to clean but if you don't want to deal with that. Then stay away from the carbonext.

On the higher side of your budget, the Gesshin Ginga is also quite nice.

CarboNEXT will rust? In what universe? Have you owned one? Yes, it will discolor. No, it will not rust, no more than any stainless knife.
 
CarboNEXT will rust? In what universe? Have you owned one? Yes, it will discolor. No, it will not rust, no more than any stainless knife.

I'm pretty sure it will rust given the "right" environment. Well, at least in this universe. And not all "stainless" react the same. I have an AEBL which can readily form rust spots if left wet for too long.
 
I'm pretty sure it will rust given the "right" environment. Well, at least in this universe. And not all "stainless" react the same. I have an AEBL which can readily form rust spots if left wet for too long.

Excuse my hyperbole. Yes, any steel, stainless or not, will rust under the right conditions, but a CarboNEXT is as resistant to rust as any "normal" stainless blade, at least in my experience. Soft iron clad knives like a Shigefusa, or a monosteel carbon like a Fujiwara FKH, will develop rust in a fraction of the time a stainless or semi-stainless knife will. In the context of required care for your knife, I group the CarboNEXT in with stainless. Which was the point when replying to the OP's request.
 
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