Sobakiri recommendation

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changy915

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I've been making noodles at home and I'm using a Chinese cleaver to cut the noodles, however the belly is giving me accordions. I've also tried using a usuba but there's not enough weight and length to it. I figured this a good reason to try a sobakiri [emoji57]. Budget is less than 300 but I know sobakiris can get expensive so I can put up a bit more if necessary.

LOCATION
What country are you in?

-Usa

KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in (e.g., chef’s knife, slicer, boning knife, utility knife, bread knife, paring knife, cleaver)?

-Sobakiri menkiri

Are you right or left handed?

-Right

Are you interested in a Western handle (e.g., classic Wusthof handle) or Japanese handle?

-Japanese(do they usually come bare or wrapped in rope?)

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)?

-270

Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no)

-No

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife?

-350usd

KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment?

-Home

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for (e.g., slicing vegetables, chopping vegetables, mincing vegetables, slicing meats, cutting down poultry, breaking poultry bones, filleting fish, trimming meats, etc.)? (Please identify as many tasks as you would like.)

-Noodles only

What knife, if any, are you replacing?

-None

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for the common types of grips.)

-Pinch

What cutting motions do you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for types of cutting motions and identify the two or three most common cutting motions, in order of most used to least used.)

-Push/pull

What improvements do you want from your current knife? If you are not replacing a knife, please identify as many characteristics identified below in parentheses that you would like this knife to have.)

N/a

Better aesthetics (e.g., a certain type of finish; layered/Damascus or other pattern of steel; different handle color/pattern/shape/wood; better scratch resistance; better stain resistance)?

None

Comfort (e.g., lighter/heavier knife; better handle material; better handle shape; rounded spine/choil of the knife; improved balance)?

-Not picky

Ease of Use (e.g., ability to use the knife right out of the box; smoother rock chopping, push cutting, or slicing motion; less wedging; better food release; less reactivity with food; easier to sharpen)?


Edge Retention (i.e., length of time you want the edge to last without sharpening)?

-i heard these are a pain to sharpen, but im only using it once or twice a week. So I figure I don't need the toughest edge retention?

KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? (Yes or no.)

-Synthetic

Do you sharpen your own knives? (Yes or no.)

-Yes but not for this

If not, are you interested in learning how to sharpen your knives? (Yes or no.)

Are you interested in purchasing sharpening products for your knives? (Yes or no.)

-No


SPECIAL REQUESTS/COMMENTS
 
I make noodles at home all the time. The only type I’ve found that a soba kiri is necessary is when I make actual soba. But that’s just because buckwheat is finicky. When I make udon, a really large, sharp gyuto works just fine. Just as a heads up, soba kiri require better and more frequent sharpening than most knives to actually work well.

I guess what I’m saying is that unless you’re making soba, you’re probably better off just working on your cutting technique and sharpening skills. I mean, unless you just really really want a soba kiri, in which case go for it. I just don’t want you to feel like you wasted your money after a few months.
 
I make noodles at home all the time. The only type I’ve found that a soba kiri is necessary is when I make actual soba. But that’s just because buckwheat is finicky. When I make udon, a really large, sharp gyuto works just fine. Just as a heads up, soba kiri require better and more frequent sharpening than most knives to actually work well.

I guess what I’m saying is that unless you’re making soba, you’re probably better off just working on your cutting technique and sharpening skills. I mean, unless you just really really want a soba kiri, in which case go for it. I just don’t want you to feel like you wasted your money after a few months.
Really appreciate the heads up. The cleaver actually works pretty well for me. I guess I just want a reason to try a new knife. Do you think learning to sharpen a sobakiri is easily doable at home? Thats the only thing holding me back.
 
Just as a heads up, soba kiri require better and more frequent sharpening than most knives to actually work well.

Surprised to hear this. I don't have much experience with soba but when I attended a workshop, the lady teaching had 20-30 soba kiri's lying around and none of them seemed all that sharp or looked like they had been sharpened any time recently. But they all cut soba fine (at least for home!).

I always understood that these knives are more about their size, weight, and most importantly, edge flatness. It would be one knife that I would not recommend frequent sharpening and think it'd probably be better off sent to a professional to sharpen.
 
How about just grind a CCK into a flat profile, probably cost less than a soba kiri? I've seen similar knives in use in noodle shops in Hong Kong
 
Surprised to hear this. I don't have much experience with soba but when I attended a workshop, the lady teaching had 20-30 soba kiri's lying around and none of them seemed all that sharp or looked like they had been sharpened any time recently. But they all cut soba fine (at least for home!).

I always understood that these knives are more about their size, weight, and most importantly, edge flatness. It would be one knife that I would not recommend frequent sharpening and think it'd probably be better off sent to a professional to sharpen.
I guess it depends on who you learn from. I mean, that’s not wrong...

But the person who taught me hated the feel of basically pinching noodles off the sheet and emphasized having a nice clean, square cut. Different strokes for different folks I guess
 
Also, tbh. I don’t have any experience sharpening soba kiri. The person who taught me soba sharpened his himself and never let me take them to stones. They were always kept in incredible condition though.
 
So the sobakiri Michi linked to above finally arrived. Out of the box the fit and finish were acceptable. The handle is dark wood, and the steel is some sort of unspecified stainless, but the edge is sharp (sorry for the lame iPhone pics):

sobakiri1.jpg


The important thing for a sobakiri is that the edge should be dead flat, and unfortunately this one isn't:

sobakiri2.jpg

It's not the cutting board, I checked it on a flat plate too- Looks like it could be fixed with some careful work on the stones, and for the price I guess I wouldn't expect perfection. I would have preferred the bow to be a little convex vs. concave, but other than that it looks like a good deal for the money.
 
Last edited:
Bummer :(

Did you mention it to Knifewear? They might be willing to pick one out for you that is straight and exchange it?
 
Bummer :(

Did you mention it to Knifewear? They might be willing to pick one out for you that is straight and exchange it?
I didn’t even think of that because of the low price, but maybe I’ll mention it and see if they can do anything. On the other hand it’s a challenge to see if I can get it flat on the stones....
 
Just to follow up, I wound up just flattening the edge on a diamond plate (is that what we call butterknifing?) and re-grinding a bevel on a King 300 before sharpening up on a progression of stones (a fair amount of work!). It came almost as a single-bevel, with the ura being very slightly convex, but there's a pronounced smaller bevel on the ura side. I tried to keep the new geometry the same, and now it is dead-flat, so for the money I'm happy with it.

Anybody have any idea which stainless this is using?
 
Just to follow up, I wound up just flattening the edge on a diamond plate (is that what we call butterknifing?) and re-grinding a bevel on a King 300 before sharpening up on a progression of stones (a fair amount of work!). It came almost as a single-bevel, with the ura being very slightly convex, but there's a pronounced smaller bevel on the ura side. I tried to keep the new geometry the same, and now it is dead-flat, so for the money I'm happy with it.

Anybody have any idea which stainless this is using?
Thanks for reporting back!
 
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