Spalted Opinel #12 handles

[Keithpaints]

Had them in the ground for 7 months rained a lot checked them out today rough sand 80 grit to see what have did one than the other finishing grit 2000.
First coat today 3 coats in all then buff them. Have nice spalting all around the handles.

 

[aporigine]

Had them in the ground for 7 months rained a lot checked them out today rough sand 80 grit to see what have did one than the other finishing grit 2000.
First coat today 3 coats in all then buff them. Have nice spalting all around the handles.View attachment 331965

Maple?

 

[Keithpaints]

I'm not sure what opinel handles are it's light wood good for spalting contrast.

 

[aporigine]

I'm not sure what opinel handles are it's light wood good for spalting contrast.

So if I’m pickin up what you layin down — you exposed original handles to spalting conditions. Nice!

 

[Jovidah]

Standard opinel handles are beechwood but these days they come in a variety of flavors.

 

[big D]

Very nice.

 

[Keithpaints]

Yeh these must be beechwood. Different other woods like olive cost more

 

[Keithpaints]

Fungi & Bacterea need moist conditions. They create soil important for ecology systems.

 

[aporigine]

Fungi & Bacterea need moist conditions. They create soil important for ecology systems.

Bacteria are amazing and underappreciated. They are the wide strong plinth on which all life rests. The Cambrian expansion had three point five billion years of prologue.

 

[Jovidah]

And I thought 2001: A Space Odyssey had a slow start...

 

[aporigine]

And I thought 2001: A Space Odyssey had a slow start...

But hooo diggity once things caught fire!

 

[xsmx13]

Had them in the ground for 7 months rained a lot checked them out today rough sand 80 grit to see what have did one than the other finishing grit 2000.
First coat today 3 coats in all then buff them. Have nice spalting all around the handles.View attachment 331965

Bravo, those are gorgeous.

 

[Beerzebub]

Looks really cool! I didn't know you can do this with wood that's already dried. Does it seem like the 7 months was about right?

 

[Keithpaints]

My first one was by mistake I lost the knife doing yardwork the place was a jungle have to do lots of clearing weeds & vines dominate. Before we moved in.
Auntie too old for yardwork & never hired yardmen. It was above ground hidden by weeds found it 2 years later. Open position blade covered in deep rust. Later I ordered two #12 one carbon & one stainless 23.00 each took blades off & buried them in Rich volcanic soil. 7 months it rained a lot during those months. When I pulled them out covered in dirt washed them sanded with 80 grit could tell plenty spalting. It was windy & sunny so hung them on line to completely dry. Once dry continued sanding 80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1,000, 1,300, 1,500, 2,000.

Picture of carbon that lost two years with new carbon blade it got a few spots on it laying on workbench in open air garage. So cleaned up thinned it put very sharp edge.

The wood was dry but buried in moist dirt became feeding ground for fungus & bacteria. They even break down fallen trees in rainforest. Buried for 7 months up here more than enough time. Maybe with the rain 5 months enough.

 

[Keithpaints]

New Zeland are volcanic in origin just like Hawaii. If you are in rainy area or know of a rainy part of island you could bury it there & mark it with some rocks.

 

[Beerzebub]

Haha, it's pouring rain as we speak. Lack of rain in Wellington won't be a problem! It's definitely colder than Hawaii though, so guessing fungal growth could be slower here.

 

[aporigine]

New Zeland are volcanic in origin just like Hawaii. If you are in rainy area or know of a rainy part of island you could bury it there & mark it with some rocks.

New Zealand isn’t purely igneous. It has old, old granite and schist in places.

 

[Keithpaints]

Thought I would give a few tips on putting blade on spalted handle. I am using old rusty blade. To show how it's done. I had to sand the slot some where back of blade inserts to line up hole for pivot pin. Sorry condition one of tools inherited when Father died. I have to clean it up & put mineral oil on it. It's a
reverse plier perfect for taking off & reinstalling stainless steel locking ring.
On line video shows folks using them.
A flat head large screwdriver will work, but these give you more control had to widen it some. I buried handles with base ring & locking ring on it. The base ring not as high quality stainless as locking has some rust on it. Doesn't matter to whoever gets these handles they will use new hardware on #12 blade to put on spalted handle. The pivit pin has a head on one side the pliers expand ring over nail head. Pictures show lock ring in open & closed blade.

 

[Keithpaints]

Often videos show easy part taking off & putting back on lock ring using reverse pliers. Most don't get into blade removal taking out pivit pin. The stainless steel pin on back side has no head that's the side you remove from. Maybe there are DIY videos, the couple I watched where hilarious stopping video because couldn't get nail out. My first try was removing new blade was failure the nail is slightly above the hole because no side resistance flared out. So I used fine metal file to make it flush with the hole nail punch came right out. Both my new blades installed on spalted handles work perfect.

 

[Keithpaints]

Went ahead & bought two #12 Opinel put new blades, pivit pin, both new rings internal & external locking rings on spalted handles. Of coarse beechwood on opinel not stabilized so decided to put satin Arm-R-Seal two coats. This is good stuff. On of my antique Tansu top was getting wear bought it 40 years ago. Needed some repair. Wanted a natural looking wood finish & protective seal for top of Tansu that has stuff on it stained glass lamp etc. It's expensive but great stuff even for unstabilized spalted beechwood. One Carbone & one Stainless.