Spalted Opinel #12 handles

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Had them in the ground for 7 months rained a lot checked them out today rough sand 80 grit to see what have did one than the other finishing grit 2000.
First coat today 3 coats in all then buff them. Have nice spalting all around the handles.
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Fungi & Bacterea need moist conditions. They create soil important for ecology systems.
Bacteria are amazing and underappreciated. They are the wide strong plinth on which all life rests. The Cambrian expansion had three point five billion years of prologue.
 
My first one was by mistake I lost the knife doing yardwork the place was a jungle have to do lots of clearing weeds & vines dominate. Before we moved in.
Auntie too old for yardwork & never hired yardmen. It was above ground hidden by weeds found it 2 years later. Open position blade covered in deep rust. Later I ordered two #12 one carbon & one stainless 23.00 each took blades off & buried them in Rich volcanic soil. 7 months it rained a lot during those months. When I pulled them out covered in dirt washed them sanded with 80 grit could tell plenty spalting. It was windy & sunny so hung them on line to completely dry. Once dry continued sanding 80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1,000, 1,300, 1,500, 2,000.

Picture of carbon that lost two years with new carbon blade it got a few spots on it laying on workbench in open air garage. So cleaned up thinned it put very sharp edge.

The wood was dry but buried in moist dirt became feeding ground for fungus & bacteria. They even break down fallen trees in rainforest. Buried for 7 months up here more than enough time. Maybe with the rain 5 months enough.
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Thought I would give a few tips on putting blade on spalted handle. I am using old rusty blade. To show how it's done. I had to sand the slot some where back of blade inserts to line up hole for pivot pin. Sorry condition one of tools inherited when Father died. I have to clean it up & put mineral oil on it. It's a
reverse plier perfect for taking off & reinstalling stainless steel locking ring.
On line video shows folks using them.
A flat head large screwdriver will work, but these give you more control had to widen it some. I buried handles with base ring & locking ring on it. The base ring not as high quality stainless as locking has some rust on it. Doesn't matter to whoever gets these handles they will use new hardware on #12 blade to put on spalted handle. The pivit pin has a head on one side the pliers expand ring over nail head. Pictures show lock ring in open & closed blade.
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Often videos show easy part taking off & putting back on lock ring using reverse pliers. Most don't get into blade removal taking out pivit pin. The stainless steel pin on back side has no head that's the side you remove from. Maybe there are DIY videos, the couple I watched where hilarious stopping video because couldn't get nail out. My first try was removing new blade was failure the nail is slightly above the hole because no side resistance flared out. So I used fine metal file to make it flush with the hole nail punch came right out. Both my new blades installed on spalted handles work perfect.
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Went ahead & bought two #12 Opinel put new blades, pivit pin, both new rings internal & external locking rings on spalted handles. Of coarse beechwood on opinel not stabilized so decided to put satin Arm-R-Seal two coats. This is good stuff. On of my antique Tansu top was getting wear bought it 40 years ago. Needed some repair. Wanted a natural looking wood finish & protective seal for top of Tansu that has stuff on it stained glass lamp etc. It's expensive but great stuff even for unstabilized spalted beechwood. One Carbone & one Stainless.
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Well had last two handles in ground 6 months. Dug them up today.

Decided to show how do it. You can see moss on concrete tiles drainage flume.
Put rocks around to mark where i put them.
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Wash dirt off then with hose scrub pad. remove stainless steel collars bury with handles to protect that area of wood. Clean out the slots. Hang on line during the day to dry out. Put them inside of garage at night in case of rain. Have to be completely dry before start sanding.

Can tell both these handles have good spalting.
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Sanded first coat of arm-r-seal. The beechwood when sanded is very light wood that shows off spalting. Have to wait two days between coats. 0000 steel wool when dry before next coat. Spalted wood should be stabilized. Can't do that with opinel handles. When restored my 1800's Japanese Tansu in 2023 researched protective finish that still brings out beauty of wood. Arm-r-Seal kept coming up. I only coated top on tansu. It had damage stains from its past life in Japan then dyed dark color to hide imperfections. I asked guy who sold me the piece in 1980's how could strip off stain back to natural wood color. I dont mind wear on antiques. The top was pretty bad sanded out some of damage then 3 coats of ARS. Since have stain glass lamp & put other things on top it's good protection.
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Sanded first coat of arm-r-seal. The beechwood when sanded is very light wood that shows off spalting. Have to wait two days between coats. 0000 steel wool when dry before next coat. Spalted wood should be stabilized. Can't do that with opinel handles. When restored my 1800's Japanese Tansu in 2023 researched protective finish that still brings out beauty of wood. Arm-r-Seal kept coming up. I only coated top on tansu. It had damage stains from its past life in Japan then dyed dark color to hide imperfections. I asked guy who sold me the piece in 1980's how could strip off stain back to natural wood color. I dont mind wear on antiques. The top was pretty bad sanded out some of damage then 3 coats of ARS. Since have stain glass lamp & put other things on top it's good protection.
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That is the finest chest I’ve seen since … oh what was her name…
 
Was first Tansu it was very dark stained
Bought it from Garata Do Japanese antiques in 1980's for 400.00. In 90's wanted to strip it to original wood color. The Japanese owner told me how & also how to keep metal hardware looking good. When he saw job I'd done back then offered me a job In his workshop to fix old Tansu. I had to decline because already had full time job at Kahala Hilton
Plus a thriving ice carving bussiness.

Second Tansu
Bought from him is from 1700's. Kind of rare single piece. Most are two pieces stacked. Paid 1,500 for it. Keep it in
excellent condition.
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2023 found termite droppings back of the 4 drawer stripped Tansu. The only nails are in metal hardware. All the wood is joined with wooden pegs. Took all my clothes out of drawers & two stacked cabinets. Treated it for termites did some repairs. Sanded the top got rid of some of the old damage then 3 coats of Arm-R- Seal. The carpenter who made it 1800's put the wide grain piece of wood in front of top. It's held my clothes for almost 40 years. Who knows it's history before I got it. Treated the drawers and
Cabinet with Howard's orange oil & spiffed up the metal hardware.
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Was first Tansu it was very dark stained
Bought it from Garata Do Japanese antiques in 1980's for 400.00. In 90's wanted to strip it to original wood color. The Japanese owner told me how & also how to keep metal hardware looking good. When he saw job I'd done back then offered me a job In his workshop to fix old Tansu. I had to decline because already had full time job at Kahala Hilton
Plus a thriving ice carving bussiness.

Second Tansu
Bought from him is from 1700's. Kind of rare single piece. Most are two pieces stacked. Paid 1,500 for it. Keep it in
excellent condition.
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sod the furnature, I need to see the katanas!
 

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