As many of you maybe already aware, square knives tip wore much quicker than the rest of the knive since they are tapered to balance the weight.
There's two methods that I know, one is to thin the base to make the edge closer to the Ura, another one is to slant the entire Shinogi towards the tip.
I used my honyaki white 3 Usuba daily at home(I am not a chef) for a few years and the entire edge has slanted to the tip due to wear.
Finally I decided to raise the Shinogi to compensate this and move the edge slightly to the left,
which means I have to thin the entire cutting edge to repivot at the tip without making the base too thin.
![IMG_1166.JPEG IMG_1166.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281968-1d44937525766d5e9325335543bc3414.jpg)
![IMG_1167.JPEG IMG_1167.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281969-6f7d53e92a35a9ffe607d87796d6bc6f.jpg)
![IMG_1168.JPEG IMG_1168.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281970-873b1fa2f4c7d9f1b99e95cb38bf1684.jpg)
![IMG_1169.JPEG IMG_1169.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281971-9e15addf71a0bb3abc68b52d96a39a66.jpg)
The upper radius of the base is not fully blended in yet because I didn't want to touch my newly sharpened edge this time(I finished it with Asagi after Iyo, shaves paper without cutting it through).
How to you think about the result?
I wasn't able to move the entire Shinogi in one go because how much hardened steel I have to to remove by hand with 240 grit ceramic as PVD diamod like atoma will leave deep marks.
Do you think it's practical to do this without power tools? How would you have handled this?
Also I did this myself because I have diffucluty trusting shops in the London to take care of my knive because all they do is overpriced damascus and overpriced fancy grips.
Am I being overly cautious on this matter?
There's two methods that I know, one is to thin the base to make the edge closer to the Ura, another one is to slant the entire Shinogi towards the tip.
I used my honyaki white 3 Usuba daily at home(I am not a chef) for a few years and the entire edge has slanted to the tip due to wear.
Finally I decided to raise the Shinogi to compensate this and move the edge slightly to the left,
which means I have to thin the entire cutting edge to repivot at the tip without making the base too thin.
![IMG_1166.JPEG IMG_1166.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281968-1d44937525766d5e9325335543bc3414.jpg)
![IMG_1167.JPEG IMG_1167.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281969-6f7d53e92a35a9ffe607d87796d6bc6f.jpg)
![IMG_1168.JPEG IMG_1168.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281970-873b1fa2f4c7d9f1b99e95cb38bf1684.jpg)
![IMG_1169.JPEG IMG_1169.JPEG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attachments/281/281971-9e15addf71a0bb3abc68b52d96a39a66.jpg)
The upper radius of the base is not fully blended in yet because I didn't want to touch my newly sharpened edge this time(I finished it with Asagi after Iyo, shaves paper without cutting it through).
How to you think about the result?
I wasn't able to move the entire Shinogi in one go because how much hardened steel I have to to remove by hand with 240 grit ceramic as PVD diamod like atoma will leave deep marks.
Do you think it's practical to do this without power tools? How would you have handled this?
Also I did this myself because I have diffucluty trusting shops in the London to take care of my knive because all they do is overpriced damascus and overpriced fancy grips.
Am I being overly cautious on this matter?