What's your method for a toothy edge?

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AC-Bus

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So I'm getting a lot better at sharpening, at least it seems that way, but I'm looking for examples of how some of you more experienced sharpeners like to get that perfect balance between stupid sharp and aggressive bite.
I feel my edges could use a bit more tooth.
What's your progression? What finishing stones? Do you strop on leather with compound? etc.
My knives are stainless steel, no carbons yet.
I have a Gesshin 400, and a Gesshin 1000/6000 combo.
Got some stropping supplies on the way.
Examples of your personal setups/ general pointers/ jedi tricks are gratefully accepted.
 
[video=youtube;bMW5vJ4krPE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMW5vJ4krPE[/video]
 
I'm pretty sure all of Jon's stones--I've not used the 6k--will leave a nice toothy finish. I suggest just sticking with a technique (Theory's is good) and sharpen a lot of knives:)

As stated by Panda though if you want a real toothy finish I'd stop at a lower stone like maybe the 1k and see how it feels. If it's too much tooth then a few light swipes on the 6k, etc. Others would suggest sharpening thru the 6k and then stropping a few times on the 1k; really just have to experiment to find your personal likes and even then it can vary by knife.

Cheers
 
Depends on what you want. Probably the easy way is to stop at say 3000 grit and strop on something hard with chromium oxide or other half micron material. This will leave a "toothy" edge but the stropping will polish up and refine the edge at the apex between the scratches from the coarser stones.

You should experiment after you have attained the ability to carry an edge through your highest stone -- not because you necessarily want that kind of edge, but you need to be able to hold a bevel angle consistently to get repeatable results. From there you can try jumping from a 1K to a 6K but not completely polishing the edge, stropping, whatever. You have to find for yourself what sort of edge works best for you on your knives, it's sorta difficult to give a one size fits all solution!

I have one very hard carbon knife that performs very well when polished on my Kitayama and stropped on chromium oxide. My Tojiro DP is happier if I strop after a 6K stone, just the difference between whatever carbon steel I have and VG-10. Both are almost freakishly sharp but will slice onions paper thin with little effort. No tomatoes to try them on right now, it's winter and I refuse to eat grocery store tomatoes, but they both cut meat nicely too.

My Chicago Cutlery knives get finished on my synthetic blue aoto and stropped, that seems to give the best edge for them. Doesn't last long, may have to increase the bevel angle a bit from the 12 or so I've been trying, but I suspect they will never hold an edge very well. Just the nature of the steel, they were all pretty flat along the edge when I got them.

You will always have to sharpen your knives, so you will have plenty of opportunities to experiment!

Peter
 
Yeah, I had a big sharpening session today and definitely found that it can vary from knife to knife. My Mac seemed to like stopping after the 1k and then just stropping on the 6k. My Ken Onion Shun (shut up, i won it at a food show) seems to like a lot more work on the 6k, that thing will get scary sharp btw and actually has good retention but its a lil' chippy.

My Ginga petty is somewhere between the two right now. I'll have to experiment with that one a bit more.

How's that blue aoto? Seems like a few people use that one. Would you recommend that as an alternative to a good 3k?
 
I want to stress out the point psfred brought out. Consistent angles during all the progression is key to sharp and durable edge.
 
The synthetic aoto is an unusual stone, it's made with some ground natural stone along with synthetic grit. Not really a beginner's stone, I don't think, it's very soft and muddy. The mud is the magic -- it seems to sharpen up softer stainless very nicely without pulling the large carbides out, leaving a very sharp and "toothy" edge. On other knives it's a nice pre-polish stone, but the edge is nothing special at all, and in fact can feel quite dull in comparison to a stainless edge off the same stone. Non-stainless steel knives require a finer stone to finish and polish from the synthetic aoto.

It's very soft, and quite easy to gouge, which does nothing for stone or edge.

It also has a reputation, like natural stones, for cracking, and if you get one, I highly recommend shellacing five sides, leaving only the working surface free. It needs some soaking to work well, and if sealed with shellac or lacquer, can be left in water, but will also be happy if soaked for a short time and allowed to dry. Unsealed it is VERY likely to crack into chunks.

It is coarser than a standard 3k synthetic stone until you are sliding on mud, after which it produces a nice polish on most knives.

Get one if you have the cash and want one, but it's not the same as a regular 3k stone and won't work like one for most steel.

Peter
 
I think that was the case with the "old" synthetic aoto. I hear that Maxsim's newer synthetic red aoto is pretty good, and not prone to cracking...
 
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