Best dishwasher safe board for raw meat only?

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Well as someone who knows what it's like to have a year long of diarrhea after a food poisoning of some sort I started taking things a bit more seriously than that... ;) It's better safe than sorry for me.

In the only pro kitchen I worked in (hospital) everything was just thrown in a 90 degrees celcius cycle in the dishwasher. Wood boards are actually allowed under the Dutch health code (if you have seperate clearly marked board for different food categories) but most don't bother with them because dishwashable plastic is just more convenient.
 
Ive also considered the effects of microplastics. I don't like the gouges that appear on cheap plastic boards and provide a crevice for bacteria to get trapped and multiply.

I'm looking at perhaps getting a hasegawa PE or the soft elastomer. Afaik those are the best regarded dishwasher safe boards around. I'm having a hard time deciding between them. Are the hasegawa PE boards much different from other PE boards?
 
Because a 70 degree celcius cycle in a dishwasher is far more effective and reliable at killing bacteria than hand washing.
 
Wood actually kills any remaining germs, yet that needs time...

Really when flushing a 'contaminated abdomen' (meaning bowel content on the loose in the abdominal cavity) the start of the treatment would be to flush with humongous amounts of water.

You do not have to kill the bacteria you have flushed away...killing many bacteria is harder than you think...decreasing their number by flushing and scrubbing really works
 
No disagreement there... which is also why I've always dishwashed under a running tap. The whole concept of dishwashing in a small tub always seemed unappealing to me. You're not really cleaning... you're just evening out the dirtyness across your entire set of dishes. :p
 
You all should buy UV germ killing lights! Go big.

I think the alkaline soap has kept me alive thus far. :). I do a diluted bleach spritz and rinse on especially heinous knife jobs. Like cleaning game.
 
of all protein material I'd expect game to be the cleanest..and biofarmed stuff worst.... poultry being worst, then pigs followed by cattle IMO.
 
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MarcelNL said:
of all protein material I'd expect game to be the cleanest..and biofarmed stuff worst.... poultry being worst, then pigs followed by cattle IMO.
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in Texas, i have an outdoor repurposed chopping block i pulled out of my stepdads restuarant. it is stage one, to game. fur and hooves. it gets kinda brutal looking. i hose it off and pour hot soapy water over it and go to town. before and after.
 
Chasingsharpness said:
Are hasegawa PE boards much different than regular cheap PE boards? I'm thinking if it's worth spending that much extra if the surface material is the same.

I'm also considering the softer rubber, but I heard it is not advisable for use with cleavers. I only use CCK slicing cleavers so wondering if the PE versions are more suitable.
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Soft hasegawa dont work well with cleavers. Id look into ashi insted. I personally use mainly 180mm chuka boocho and use end grain & ashi for land meat and flying meat😆i have 30x30cm ashi so its eazy to clean
 
MarcelNL said:
of all protein material I'd expect game to be the cleanest..and biofarmed stuff worst.... poultry being worst, then pigs followed by cattle IMO.
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Yes, makes sense. Although even game isn't necessarily always hazard free. Saw a fairly recent documentary ones about how wild hogs in Germany still have to get tested for radiation as a result of the Chernobyl disaster. Apparently there's bioaccumulation happening through mushrooms that they like to eat. Even 20-30 years later sometimes carcasses are still rejected as safe for human consumption because of it (though considering how low the norms usually are in Europe I'd expect you to be fine if you ate some of it).
 
In the past, I have used sani-tuff and hi-soft boards for this sort of thing. They are both soft on the knife edge. Of these two I preferred the sani-tuff because the hi-soft was too thick and heavy.

Nowadays (for home use), I prefer to just use a well oiled hard maple face grain or edge grain board. I feel the end grain is too porous and oil-demanding. I sand the face of the new board down to ~2000 grit to burnish it and seal the surface pores prior to oiling, which should somewhat limit the penetration of germs. I haven't had any issues and have used the same cutting board for protein and veggies for many years this way. I always wash it thoroughly with soap and hot water afterwards, and let it dry completely before using again. This also works for things that normally stain the wood, such as beets.
 
Chasingsharpness said:
Ive also considered the effects of microplastics. I don't like the gouges that appear on cheap plastic boards and provide a crevice for bacteria to get trapped and multiply.

I'm looking at perhaps getting a hasegawa PE or the soft elastomer. Afaik those are the best regarded dishwasher safe boards around. I'm having a hard time deciding between them. Are the hasegawa PE boards much different from other PE boards?
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Yes, I believe they are. Mine is much gentler on knife edges than a standard flat PE board. As mentioned earlier, the texture also helps keep the proteins from sliding around as much.

I don't throw my Hasegawa in the dishwasher, but since it's fairly easy to wash, I don't mind.
 
I also think my Hasegawa PE board feels a little softer than my cheap PE boards. Part of that might be due to the texture, which is almost like the dimples on a golf ball vs the rougher stippled texture on my cheap boards. Maybe that reduces edge contact.

I run them all through the dishwasher, without the heated drying cycle, and they all come out fine.
 
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