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Oh yeah. I didnt mention it yet.

I got to sharpen one of the asp-2053 blades.

This stuff is 👌took a nice edge right off my f400. Which is always a good sign to me. After a few strops with 1 micron diamond it was very crisp.

Sharpening has always been one of the biggest ways I personally judge how much I like a steel.

Its why i really like going into the 65+ hrc range. A good bit of these tool steels, like m4, 10v, k390 with 66-68 hrc (provided retained austenite isnt too high) really come up nicely on the stones. And at least initial impressions of asp-2053 are right to the top of my list. Of course it too early for me to just say this is one of my favorite steels to sharpen, but....

It being 68.5 hrc probably helps it out. Lol.

But also. One thing, that i didn't notice. Is that with super high hrc steels, like maxamet, and also I have seen 15v do this. they can tend to have the entire apex come off it you go too big on the burr. I didnt try pushing it to that extent really, but i wasnt super careful about it either.
 
Moved. Currently getting the new shop setup.

I think I spent 24 hours straight no sleep working to get everything arranged. I still need to do more. But had to stop because I'm just exhausted. Had to load everything, unload everything..still gotta finish up more unpacking but gonna rest.

IMG_20231227_033841996.jpg
 
Got the new shop set up pretty much. Going to move things around as i go, and find the best place for stuff as the need arises.

IMG_20231229_173253611.jpg


But, the good news is once i get really going again I will just be making knives full time. I really wanted to keep making progress on this batch. After basically having to grind to a halt over the last couple weeks because of the move. But there is an issue with the mail, and some of the stuff i needed to polish the blades. So I'm kind of stuck waiting on that.
 
@Troopah_Knives put his article on asp-2053 out today on patreon. If you are interested in knife steels I highly recommend giving him a follow! I promise there likely isn't a person here that wouldn't learn a thing or two from his articles (being conservative it will be more than a thing or two lol).

Anyone into nerdy steel metallurgy stuff that isnt following him there yet is doing themself a disservice imo.

About there steel.

There is a lot still up in the air, still, as far as the exact properties. Being what I have mentioned already, about it not quite being like 10v, or k390 but similar. And not quite like the high speed steels out there that I see, but also similar. Without going into too much, it will be really interesting to see this stuff catra tested, and charpy tested.

I think there is a decent likelihood it has a really nice combination of properties. And in the worst case scenario, it ends up just being similar to 10v. But it reaches 68.5 hrc without breaking a sweat.
 
Yeah. Even if the wear resistance just falls between k390 and 10v, and the toughness just stays in line with the other similar steels in the 65+ hrc range. I think its still a good choice.

It certainly sharpens nicely.
 
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A rehandle and restoration for a kato.

IMG_20240102_105901006.jpg



This is the last rehandle I'm going to do. I really don't like doing them. I take on way more risk, since people are sending me $1000 knives, and then I have to stress out about making sure they dont get broken or lost.

Also it I have to spend time working on the handle and all that, that I could spend making my own knives. And getting paid less to do these. And just putting a new handle on someone elses knife really isn't as fulfilling as making my own.

So there is basically no positive side to me continuing to do rehandles for people.
 
@SABOL BROTHERS to answer your question yes. I temper in the lower range.

You can look at larrins results on testing different steels in the low and high range for corrosion resistance. It makes a pretty large difference.

Also for cold work tool steels they tend to have increased toughness for a given hardness when tempered in the lower range. So there isnt any benefit to properties that would come from a 1000+ temper on 10v.
 
Got the timascus ones anodized. I think im pretty happy with the color combo
IMG_20240110_170442879.jpg


Also got all the choils and spines polished. Gonna start moving forward with blade polishing again soon.

About time to start putting the bolsters and handles together also.
IMG_20240110_184959058.jpg
 
Last edited:
Still making progress. On stuff.

Got this mokume bolster polished and etched yesterday. Which was a huge ordeal. Because i dropped it like 5 times and had to repolish it every time. Because its awkward to hold onto. Wasted basically the whole day just doing that over and over.

But im happy with the end result at least.

IMG_20240111_191018812.jpg


Got a new 400 grit vitrified diamond stone in, along with diamond films i was waiting on to start polishing these knives.
IMG_20240111_214540020.jpg


I desperately need a 1000 grit diamond stone still. For those of you who havent seen my f400 venev, its gotten even worse.

Anyway. Spent today polishing blades. Got the asp-2053 ones up to the final grit. Need to do straight pulls on it still.

And got one side of the apex ultra knife most of the way there.
IMG_20240112_225218763.jpg
 
Blank Blades. said:
Still making progress. On stuff.

Got this mokume bolster polished and etched yesterday. Which was a huge ordeal. Because i dropped it like 5 times and had to repolish it every time. Because its awkward to hold onto. Wasted basically the whole day just doing that over and over.

But im happy with the end result at least.

View attachment 292924

Got a new 400 grit vitrified diamond stone in, along with diamond films i was waiting on to start polishing these knives.
View attachment 292925

I desperately need a 1000 grit diamond stone still. For those of you who havent seen my f400 venev, its gotten even worse.

Anyway. Spent today polishing blades. Got the asp-2053 ones up to the final grit. Need to do straight pulls on it still.

And got one side of the apex ultra knife most of the way there.
View attachment 292926
Click to expand...
Nice, which stone is that?
 
Justinv said:
Can you explain the issue with Venev 400? Worn out?
Click to expand...
I have worn through all the abrasive on top, down to the base plate on about 1/4 of the entire surface of my f400.

The f400 stone is fine. Ive just used mine up.
 
jedy617 said:
Do you like it?
Click to expand...
So far seems good. I messed with it in the as received condition. On my 10v para 3 reblade felt good, good feedback. Though 400 grit should have decent tactile feedback whether resin bonded or vitrified.

Used it for thinning/polishing behind edge on one of the asp-2053 gyutos, and an apex ultra one. It wasnt completely flat, the sides and both ends were higher than the middle, so that effected some things. But the important thing i was looking at, was how cut, and if it was friable or not.

On the asp-2053, which is 68.5 hrc (i think it might have been just above that actually), 18%ish mc type carbide volume. it smoothed over the more i used it. And felt glassy by the end.

The apex ultra which should be around 67 hrc. But has a much much lower mc type carbide volume. Was able to get it cutting again just by following it up with thinning this.

My conclusion from the stone so far is if you are doing edges. With this specific batch, you in theory would never need to redress the stone to keep it cutting. But if you were to thin something very extreme like i did here. You very well may need to once or twice in a session.

That said apparently the new batch has a harder bond. So this wont be relivant to those. I personally think keeping it how it was would have been the better move if the intended use is on hard, high carbide volume steels. If the intended use is for normal steels the harder bond is probably better.
 
Ended up finding a hairline crack in the apex ultra gyuto. So i had to make it into something else. I'm personally not a huge petty fan, and the spine thickness seemed perfect for a honesuki. So i made a right hand biased honesuki. Got it ground, and did some stone work. Just need to round over some parts, and i'll be caught back up... I might have to make some adjustments to the handle. But i'll see.

IMG_20240114_181738069.jpg
IMG_20240114_181741879.jpg
 
Decided to see what the handle looks like on it now (the machi gap wont be there at the end)... I definitely think it might need to be shorter at least now... Idk. Kinda sucks. Because i thought it was perfect with the gyuto sized knife.

IMG_20240114_183659764.jpg



Would like to hear any opinions for sure.
 
Blank Blades. said:
Gonna have to polish the spine and choil again, and then go back and take single passes to get the satin perfect. But here is close to how it will be.
View attachment 293326
Click to expand...
Please don't polish the cat. They usually come with spines already polished. The two of mine are like that, everything besides the cutting edges are very smooth and rounded.
 
Barmoley said:
Please don't polish the cat. They usually come with spines already polished. The two of mine are like that, everything besides the cutting edges are very smooth and rounded.
Click to expand...
But mine isn't shiny 💀
 
Got the new batch started.

Still waiting for more steel to come in for more knives.
IMG_20240207_132118681.jpg


On the left, the top 3 are asp-2053. Its a honesuki, and a santoku.

Then a custom gyuto in it.

Then i have 2 a2 gyutos, 1 roughly 210x52, the other 240x55. Going to go for the banding wootz look on them.

On the right are 3 edcs in wolfram special, differentially hardened.

I really want to make more high wear resistance honesuki's, i think gyutos are great in these steels, but i think honesuki's are a place steels like asp-2053, 10v, zmax, even maybe rex 121 could really shine. Doing 10v honesuki's was my first real step into making kitchen knives myself, and though i have moved away from them a bit. I really think i should start making them again, exclusively in steels like these. Maybe i can do m4 also. But no less wear resistance than that.
 
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