Burr removal

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hibbs00

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Hey everyone. Just curious what everyone thinks of this burr removal method I found on YouTube. Is it great? Good? Ok? Bad? Pros and cons to this method? I've tried this once so far and got my sharpest edge with it. Although I'm pretty new so that's not saying much.
 
Hey everyone. Just curious what everyone thinks of this burr removal method I found on YouTube. Is it great? Good? Ok? Bad? Pros and cons to this method? I've tried this once so far and got my sharpest edge with it. Although I'm pretty new so that's not saying much.

I would be surprised if the created microbevel could be entirely removed without raising a new, small burr. You may check with a sharpie and a magnifier whether nothing of the microbevel remains.
 
I would be surprised if the created microbevel could be entirely removed without raising a new, small burr. You may check with a sharpie and a magnifier whether nothing of the microbevel remains.
So far it worked great for me but I'm not sure if there's still a micro bevel or not and I've only used this way once. I'm interested in the kippington method. Wouldn't that also possibly leave a small burr but the time you reform the apex?
 
I do edge leading and trailing stropping on each stone I use(6-10 each way)

I think fold up a single sheet of paper towel multiple times to make a densely folded rectangle and cut through it. Same concept as cutting through cork or soft wood

This has worked well for me
 
I do edge leading and trailing stropping on each stone I use(6-10 each way)

I think fold up a single sheet of paper towel multiple times to make a densely folded rectangle and cut through it. Same concept as cutting through cork or soft wood

This has worked well for me
I'm not so sure about wood or cork since that video. It kind of makes sense to me anyways. I used to do the wood trick too. I'm just trying to find the best way. I'm really interested in the kippington method but hasn't worked so good for me yet so idk
 
Same idea, just without the higher angle.
The edge leading passes, in my experience, are very efficient at burr removal.
Oh, I thought he said last few light passes slightly higher angle. It makes sense to me though that leading passes don't form a foil edge like trailing passes. Thank you for sharing that
 
I just saw a new video from this same guy sharpening, on the coarse stone he did a couple really high leading passes before going to the fine stone. Aren't those high passes supposed to only be on the fine stones?



Jayson is on the forum as @stringer. :)
 

I’ve also done this before and it’s helpful at removing a burr.

Recently I experimented with setting the foundational bevel on a 320/400 stone and just doing a couple of strops (edge trailing) on 1000, 2000 and a Tajima natural Stone

In my head, it seemed lazy and incomplete but cut through paper towel like butter

I give this example that there are many many appropriate ways to sharpen knives. As long as you end up with a knife that’s sharp enough to be safe for you, then you’re all good.

Have fun, try some stuff out, take notes and see what works for you
 
The knife seems to work fine.


He told me in the comments it's to apex the edge which I understand. I'm curious as to which angle is the edge set and does he still do higher angle passes on the finishing stone for burr removal?
 
He told me in the comments it's to apex the edge which I understand. I'm curious as to which angle is the edge set and does he still do higher angle passes on the finishing stone for burr removal?
He thins the knife behind the edge initially. The higher angle is to actually apex/sharpen the knife.
 
He thins the knife behind the edge initially. The higher angle is to actually apex/sharpen the knife.
That makes way more sense. So it's not a burr removal on the first stone. I'm dumb
 
That makes way more sense. So it's not a burr removal on the first stone. I'm dumb

You're not dumb. Good questions. If I sharpen the apex bevel a little with the coarse stone then I will have to spend less time sharpening the apex bevel later. And it will have better teeth. Which is especially important for these cheaper knives.
 
You're not dumb. Good questions. If I sharpen the apex bevel a little with the coarse stone then I will have to spend less time sharpening the apex bevel later. And it will have better teeth. Which is especially important for these cheaper knives.
I like that. So it is the same as your other sharpening videos. I was thinking you were deburring on the coarse stone before going to the fine. I shared a video in this thread where a guy uses 45 degree passes to deburr before back sharpening to remove the micro bevel. That must be where I got confused. I can't wait to get a knife as sharp as yours one day. Your videos showing how easily you cut through ingredients always blows me away. I definitely look up to you and your skills. Thank you
 
I’ve also done this before and it’s helpful at removing a burr.

Recently I experimented with setting the foundational bevel on a 320/400 stone and just doing a couple of strops (edge trailing) on 1000, 2000 and a Tajima natural Stone

In my head, it seemed lazy and incomplete but cut through paper towel like butter

I give this example that there are many many appropriate ways to sharpen knives. As long as you end up with a knife that’s sharp enough to be safe for you, then you’re all good.

Have fun, try some stuff out, take notes and see what works for you
From what I have been reading here, was your knife carbon steel? Sounds like deburring can be a lot harder / take a lot longer with the more stainless steels is that right?
 
I can't find much online but when using a strop, does it matter if your trailing passes go from heel to tip or tip to heel? I see some people do tip to heel on one side and heel to tip on the other and see others only go tip to heel
 
Different strokes for different folks!

Based on what your mental model of what’s going on, what differences would you predict?
I'm thinking tip to heel follows the grind pattern. Heel to tip doesn't but does that really matter on a strop? Heel to tip, for me, is easier to start on the right angle.
 
If you sacrifice a roll of paper towel to science:

A) both ways seem equally sharp
B) one way is sharper than the other
B.1) and it has to do with the grind pattern
B.2) and it has nothing to do with the grind pattern

C) after a month or two of me getting better at this, the above answers
C.1) stay the same
C.2) have changed
 
If you sacrifice a roll of paper towel to science:

A) both ways seem equally sharp
B) one way is sharper than the other
B.1) and it has to do with the grind pattern
B.2) and it has nothing to do with the grind pattern

C) after a month or two of me getting better at this, the above answers
C.1) stay the same
C.2) have changed
Thanks but I'm trying to hear what theories everyone has and what their experience has shown
 
my friend, pick up those old stones and a new medium coarse one and spend a little bit of time scrubbing.

Experience >>>>>>> theorycrafting in sharpening. Our endpoints and results are based in real world tests, which can only be found by simply doing the thing (sharpening) and learning from what happens. The faster you start removing steel the more you will understand your needs and what solutions are appropriate/ideal.
 
I have tried both ways and don't seem to notice any difference. Never noticed the strop to ever make my knives shaper, sometimes just duller if I'm not careful. I also know there is a science to it all and not one way will work for everyone but I'm interested in the science of it. If I understand the science I can build upon that. Like typically most people have better luck removing a burr edge leading but all the close ups show trailing can give a better edge. Both don't work for me except raising my angle to remove the burr then back sharpen to take out the micro bevel. Hearing others experiences helps learning also, maybe there's a different way I didn't think of trying. Or knowing the science I can come up with my own unique way
 
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