Choil shot - thinning another blade (because I can)

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GeneH

GeneH

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I welcome any feedback with suggestions so I can improve my skills. After I hear from a few of you I'll start the other side. Left is untouched, right is the thinned side. The handle got wet while I was grinding away and pulled away from the tang. Ooops. How to prevent that?

Picked this one up to try a less tall shape gyuto and see what I could accomplish thinning it. Only one side is done so far, with the spine raised (I'm guessing) 3 mm, give or take nothing to a lot, until I just was able to feel an even burr along the whole edge.

It's a factory edge 25 cent Rostfrei Edelstahl Acier Inoxydable, 230mm, x 45mm at the heel. Spine is 2.27mm down to 1.2 mm at the tip (before I started. The tip is thinner now) The handle got wet while I was grinding away and pulled away from the tang. Ooops. How to prevent that?

This one didn't take too long on the 220 stone so it's not horribly wear resistant. I removed scratches somewhere about 5 - 10 mm from the edge easily with a 1K stone.


IMG_2782%20Choil%20Shot-L.jpg
 
youre going to have to thin a lot more to have any real improvement in cutting. raise the spine 2mm and thin. then do it again but only raised 1mm, and finally a third time with less than 1mm raise.
 
just mirror your progress on the other side and it should be in the right neighborhood.
 
Panda, I think I was doing it backwards, or just not following a regular process. I'll start with the spine higher and work lower in regular intervals. Seems to make sense at least so that I'm consistent.

Do I understand that I should get to the edge just barely before I start lowering the spine?

With this knife I'll match the thin side and use that for a while to see how the edge holds... or doesn't.
 
Continually ease the shoulder and move it up - achieved by thinning at lower and lower angles (flatter to the stone). Try to keep the edge where it is and not lose more blade height
 
panda said:
dont even bother doing the other side it looks good, it's the right side that looks like a solid block of steel. leads me to think this was a lefty ground knife.
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If I interpreted the OP right, the thinned convex-looking side is the one he/she thinned, and the flat chunky side is the one that is waiting for modification.
 
panda said:
dont even bother doing the other side it looks good, it's the right side that looks like a solid block of steel. leads me to think this was a lefty ground knife.
Click to expand...

Took me a while - I was thinking Panda was looking at a mirror image ... my bad. Left as we view from the choil, upside down - left side of the picture is the factory block of steel with a > 1mm bevel. The rest of the edge that we cannot see on that same side has < 1 mm bevel.

Right side of the picture as we are viewing it, smooth convex leading up to the edge, is what I have thinned down. Glad you think it looks good.

:)

And I'm male. That would be a "he."
 
Good work my man.
Do you have better knives? I know you used this one as a cheap sacrifice in the name of progress, but I think you've learned enough to move onto a better knife. That POS isnt worth the effort thinning the whole blade. The only thing you'd do differently on the other side is to allow more convexity for a righty (or less for a lefty), then sharpen in such a way to minimalize the steering this introduces.
 
POS!?!?! Ha! It's worth $20 on eBay. Maybe. I think it's backward as a pseudo single bevel that HRC_64 posted - I'm a lefty. Last weekend I had a chance to touch up Tyler's (one my my twin boys) Gonbei AUS10 gyuto. Love the sound of that as it goes across the stones. I truly cannot image what it is to use and sharpen a quality laser or or single bevel knife.

I handed off my Tojiro's to Blake (one of my boys) to use for a while...wasn't that happy with them. Turns out I like the sound and feel of monosteel. A blade has to have a ring to it. Been putting my money into stones and next up is a Gyuto from JKI for my daughter before she leave town in December. Then it's my turn for better steel.

I appreciate the compliments and suggestion, really, and thank you. It is a POS, buty it's my&#8203; POS. LOL And so are the rest of my kitchen knives.
 
Kippington said:
The only thing you'd do differently on the other side is to allow more convexity for a righty (or less for a lefty), then sharpen in such a way to minimalize the steering this introduces.
Click to expand...

...just re-read and picked up on this. Maybe I'll leave it more convex for a righty and have my kids try it to see how they like a right-hand-biased blade.

What should I do to minimize the steering? Another learning opportunity!
 
We're getting into dangerous subjective-opinion territory here! :nunchucks:

GeneH said:
What should I do to minimize the steering?
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I can tell you to "Do X,Y and Z to solve the problem". Or I can help you to understand what steering is and what causes it, allowing you to fix it yourself (You might already know - its not rocket surgery! :)).
But before I do, I should take a step back and ask: Do you know what advantage is gained by having more convexity on one side over another?
Because doing this intentionally will introduce steering into your knife, and if you don't know what the advantage is then why put up with the disadvantage?
 
Kippington said:
We're getting into dangerous subjective-opinion territory here! :nunchucks:



I can tell you to "Do X,Y and Z to solve the problem". Or I can help you to understand what steering is and what causes it, allowing you to fix it yourself (You might already know - its not rocket surgery! :)).
But before I do, I should take a step back and ask: Do you know what advantage is gained by having more convexity on one side over another?
Because doing this intentionally will introduce steering into your knife, and if you don't know what the advantage is then why put up with the disadvantage?
Click to expand...


Ah, no. To most of your questions. I was thinking if I didn't take off too much metal, I could eventually just mirror the finished side. Not so simple, eh? Not having any knife with intentional, or recognizing unintentional, steering, I'm just wandering around in the dark. Nothing so amusing as amateurs eh?

Maybe just take a few steps back, make is as symmetrical as I can and call it good practice?
 
I did a knife like that once, a 9 incher 1 5/8 at the heal, but never again. I spent hours getting the tip reasonably thin and bringing the edge to .008", not realizing how soft the steel. Cutting through those wirey cooked turkey leg tendons or just touching a bone will dimple the edge.
 
Kippington said:
I didn't want to leave you hanging on an answer to your question, so I wrote you a long winded email to explain it. But your inbox was full and it was too long to post in here so I started a new thread: A Basic Explanation of Asymmetry

Hopefully it might help other people too.
Click to expand...

I'm really glad you started a new thread so everyone can benefit from the time you invested. I really appreciate how much people on KKF help everyone here.

My inbox had some good info that I didn't save off yet, so getting it cleared this morning. Sorry for that - but again it worked out to the best for everyone.
 
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