- Joined
- Aug 27, 2019
- Messages
- 4,340
- Reaction score
- 9,420
Probably not having the realization that most people are weird on here and like knives that go dull fast just so we can sharpen them ![Grinning face with sweat :sweat_smile: 😅](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f605.png)
![Grinning face with sweat :sweat_smile: 😅](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f605.png)
In a pass around thread even...Why are we back to this argumentment again? I still like my white 2 Ashi Ginga, a good knife is a good knife
Town crier needs to holler this from every squareAlso, consistent distal taper is the mark of a refined workhorse. That means it stays in hand for onions rather than getting swapped out.
I want makers to internalize that "thin behind the tip" is the onion equivalent of "thin behind the edge" for everything else. And it needs to go back several inches - dealing with the last inch or so isn't really enough.
Definitely could be better, but I feel the margin between them and Zwear would be pretty small for end user like me. Anyway nice to see the pass round going so well, hope all the best for the rest of it.Imo, once you get above that 63 or so hrc range. Its better to just use 4v/v4e
Sure it doesnt matter a ton.Definitely could be better, but I feel the margin between them and Zwear would be pretty small for end user like me. Anyway nice to see the pass round going so well, hope all the best for the rest of it.
Lol that's interesting, maybe they are talking about the ingot cruwear? Tho Zwear are entirely PM as far as I know. I always use cruwear and zwear interchangeably, tho Matt used Zwear for mineSure it doesnt matter a ton.
But also, i think if one is better in a certain range, then might as well go with that. No reason not to imo. Well, besides how much zwear has gotten hyped up in the kitchen knife world somehow.
I've even had a conversation with someone, and mentioned maybe using cruwear for something. They basically replied with something along the lines that zwear would be a better choice. Even though the two are the same steel. I can't remember everything from the convo, but it was basically just people arguing with me against using pm steels for kitchen knives. Yet they still had the idea that zwear was somehow excluded from whatever made them dislike other similar steel. Which i assume was something they picked up from this forum. But i really dont know.
Idk. I doubt it. Especially since all the other steels talked about in that particular convo were also pm steels.Lol that's interesting, maybe they are talking about the ingot cruwear? Tho Zwear are entirely PM as far as I know. I always use cruwear and zwear interchangeably, tho Matt used Zwear for mine
Honestly I just write Zwear out of laziness. It could be real Zwear or CPM-Cruwear....probably the latter. Same composition, different facilities I think.....maybe it's like Sandvic AEB-L and Buderus 13c26 having different toughness? Idk...Lol that's interesting, maybe they are talking about the ingot cruwear? Tho Zwear are entirely PM as far as I know. I always use cruwear and zwear interchangeably, tho Matt used Zwear for mine
I could see aeb-l, and 13c26 being more dependant on that. Since theyre ingot steels. I imagine the processing could have a big impact.Honestly I just write Zwear out of laziness. It could be real Zwear or CPM-Cruwear....probably the latter. Same composition, different facilities I think.....maybe it's like Sandvic AEB-L and Buderus 13c26 having different toughness? Idk...
This forum doesn’t bash higher carbide steels for kitchen knives. People just say they are harder to sharpen and typically require diamond stones. carbon steels are easy to sharpen, get scary sharp, and stay sharp long enough. If you like to sharpen then it’s fine if you need to do it every week or two or even every shift and you probably prefer the feel of traditional stones over diamond.Yet they still had the idea that zwear was somehow excluded from whatever made them dislike other similar steel. Which i assume was something they picked up from this forum. But i really dont know.
It wasnt this forum actually that i had this convo on. Though i think they may be around here.This forum doesn’t bash higher carbide steels for kitchen knives. People just say they are harder to sharpen and typically require diamond stones. carbon steels are easy to sharpen, get scary sharp, and stay sharp long enough. If you like to sharpen then it’s fine if you need to do it every week or two or even every shift and you probably prefer the feel of traditional stones over diamond.
There are plenty around here that appreciate higher carbide steels - if you get them scary sharp they stay that way for a while.
Lots of room for personal preference.
Yes.I just don't understand why you'd bash a high alloy? My only beef with it is I don't have diamonds to sharpen it. Fine, cool another rabbit hole to be saved for later, as a treat.
Edit: I think the performance on standard synthetic stones that BB referenced early on for this knife is probably a good reason. Technically able to be sharpened on synthetics but giving subpar results leading people to think the steel is not worth the effort. Hell I could fall into that trap if no one warned me.
I bet every one of them would jump on a magnacut devin if it was $200 on BST.Eh, a lot of people on here turn their nose to them. I think it's been shifting the past few years though.
saw here. With people bashing them. Were describing exactly what you would see if sharpening on normal stones.
I didnt take exact ones before sending it off.To get back on topic here, I never saw final specs on the passaround. Length, height, spine thickness, weight. Did anyone capture that yet?
We could start now.I'm just glad the term "super steels" never caught on here.
You are actually tempting me to pickup a coarse diamond stone to try this.Also understanding you can't always push a big Vanadium carbide steel past a 2-4k polish very easily. Often less is more. Your approach of a DMT coarse plus strop recapitulates what I hear many people have success with.
a coarse/fine diamond combo plate never goes out of style. It's a good general tool, to have around for lots of reasons. Even if you don't sharpen on it directly. The flatter the better - off brand crap isn't worth it.You are actually tempting me to pickup a coarse diamond stone to try this.
Just please dont try it on this knifeYou are actually tempting me to pickup a coarse diamond stone to try this.
Interesting. We strop a lot more than "three strokes per side" and yet we get excellent results and insane sharpness levels, especially on K390.As a sharpening note to others: I’ve found overstropping leads to edges that slice paper towels and bounce off tomatoes. I use a balsa strop loaded with 1u diamond and find about 3 strokes per side with light pressure is all thats needed even on monster steels for edge refinement after your finishing stone. If you say go up to 20-30 strokes per side thinking wear resistant steel needs it, the edge suffers. Using just a strop for a touchup without a finishing stone usually isn’t ideal from my experience. I haven’t tried 10V yet so we’ll see but I have some other high carbide steels.
My experience is with a Venev 800 stone which is ~6 micron / 2000ish grit JIS before a strop. Without the strop its not quite sharp/refined enough.
The 3 strokes thing isn't necessarily true.Interesting. We strop a lot more than "three strokes per side" and yet we get excellent results and insane sharpness levels, especially on K390.
Enter your email address to join: