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I keep getting out my Shibata Tinker Tank and CCK 2204 when doing other knives, and then putting them off because they're both fearsomely difficult to sharpen.

But we have friends over for BBQ tomorrow, so I will get round to it this afternoon. As a 'Pom' I have learnt it is imperative to both impress, and instill fear, in the locals at such an occasion. Otherwise there will be extensive grumblings about how it's "not a sausage sizzle". It also allows them to make their favourite Crocodile Dundee joke ad nauseum, which seems to placate them somewhat.

TT only needs a touch up and will go on the Pike Lily White at the bottom. CCK on the Medium India* at the top, then maybe the coarse Washita in the middle after.

View attachment 149354


* One of the world's great sharpening stones. Was part of a job lot and I only started using it recently - a spectacularly good stone, at 240 JIS I believe.
That CCK makes the tinker look like a toy 👀
 
I keep getting out my Shibata Tinker Tank and CCK 2204 when doing other knives, and then putting them off because they're both fearsomely difficult to sharpen.

But we have friends over for BBQ tomorrow, so I will get round to it this afternoon. As a 'Pom' I have learnt it is imperative to both impress, and instill fear, in the locals at such an occasion. Otherwise there will be extensive grumblings about how it's "not a sausage sizzle". It also allows them to make their favourite Crocodile Dundee joke ad nauseum, which seems to placate them somewhat.

TT only needs a touch up and will go on the Pike Lily White at the bottom. CCK on the Medium India* at the top, then maybe the coarse Washita in the middle after.

View attachment 149354


* One of the world's great sharpening stones. Was part of a job lot and I only started using it recently - a spectacularly good stone, at 240 JIS I believe.

Norton India stones are fantastic. Although I don't use it as often any more, my Fine would be one of the very last stones you'd get away from me because I know I can do of things with it if I need to. I do still use it and love it when I do.
 
Yeah, in your case you can do belt grinder > Venev and done! No need for cereal box strip unless you're feeling fancy.

Really? Hmmmm. That is tempting.

Speaking of sharpening, I feel like I still have a ton to learn about doing it most efficiently…. Hopefully I’ll learn by doing, but it also seems like I’m apt to just keep doing it the way I do it and never really adapt to other methods. Gotta break the cycle!

I also am always uncertain whether to thin soft stainless knives for people. Probably best to be conservative when people treat it like an axe, and since I don’t use the knives I don’t know personally how thin an edge they can really take before folding over or whatever.

Also, this is hard stainless, not soft, but a client brought me an Aritsugu wide bevel a while back, and I was so excited I sent it back with a proper “thin to zero + hamaguri” edge. That was stupid. Client returns a couple weeks later with a big chip in her knife.
 
Knives of today sharpening session


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Really? Hmmmm. That is tempting.

Speaking of sharpening, I feel like I still have a ton to learn about doing it most efficiently…. Hopefully I’ll learn by doing, but it also seems like I’m apt to just keep doing it the way I do it and never really adapt to other methods. Gotta break the cycle!

I also am always uncertain whether to thin soft stainless knives for people. Probably best to be conservative when people treat it like an axe, and since I don’t use the knives I don’t know personally how thin an edge they can really take before folding over or whatever.

Also, this is hard stainless, not soft, but a client brought me an Aritsugu wide bevel a while back, and I was so excited I sent it back with a proper “thin to zero + hamaguri” edge. That was stupid. Client returns a couple weeks later with a big chip in her knife.
Not necessarily a full thinning, but, soften the shoulder just behind the edge. Think a long the lines of Cliff Stamp's method of sharpening.
 
Not necessarily a full thinning, but, soften the shoulder just behind the edge. Think a long the lines of Cliff Stamp's method of sharpening.

👍 I usually cut in what’s essentially a pretty low angle bevel and then a more conservative primary bevel. Sometimes I wonder if it’s enough, tho.
 
👍 I usually cut in what’s essentially a pretty low angle bevel and then a more conservative primary bevel. Sometimes I wonder if it’s enough, tho.

It is in my experience, until the customer tried to cut bones improperly or throws a drunken party where one of the guests decides to use his knive to « sabrer le champagne »… 🙄

Otherwise they’re very happy with the edges for a long time - too long in my book, but if there’s something hard to teach to some folks is when their knives are dull.

Edit: Especially if you’ve thinned them that way, the extra performance has customers believe a completely dull knife « is still sharp ».
 
👍 I usually cut in what’s essentially a pretty low angle bevel and then a more conservative primary bevel. Sometimes I wonder if it’s enough, tho.
They're used to that fat edge behind the edge. Anything thinner than before will be an improvement. Plus it adds a bit of convexity. To thin of an edge will fold, chip or crack.
 
👍 I usually cut in what’s essentially a pretty low angle bevel and then a more conservative primary bevel. Sometimes I wonder if it’s enough, tho.

This is usually what I do too. Mind you an awful lot of the stuff I do for other people has fairly significant chipping / general disrepair to begin with, so I usually have to re-do that part anyway.
 
Nice day for some outside sharpening and polishing on a few things that could do with a bit of tidying up. Ishizuchi 165mm Kiritsuke*, Kai 165mm Bunka, Okeya 150mm Unagisaki, Ishizuchi 150mm Kiritsuke*:

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Stones looking pretty too! SG500, King 800, King 1200, Tanaka Aoto, BBW, Old Iyo. 2 x Turkish Oilstones.

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* These are double-bevel versions. I am calling them Kiritsuke because that's what Ishizuchi call them when I buy the blades. Just in case any of you purists are getting worried about nomenclature ;).
 
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Light touch up on a new Takeda 270mm gyuto. This one came with a decent edge, I tried Takeda’s touch up method, but still didn’t quite get there. Shobu suita/Tsushima nagura (can’t get enough of this thing), quite keen, decently toothy. Isn’t at the keenness of a hard finisher, but is very smooth with some feedback through paper towel. Resulting edge feels a bit different than white #2, possibly somewhat aggressive? Although more likely my technique is inconsistent.

Having done a full synthetic sharpen on a similarly ground bunka, I much, much prefer doing a more extensive touch up on natural stones, as it takes much less steel off. The angles are hard to keep when grinding at lower grits, and small mistakes turn into big ones when you have to grind away at a 6mm wide bevel made of 2 different steels. Definitely not excited for the first full sharpen of the sujihiki version of this.
 
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Nice day for some outside sharpening and polishing on a few things that could do with a bit of tidying up. Ishizuchi 165mm Kiritsuke*, Kai 165mm Bunka, Okeya 150mm Unagisaki, Ishizuchi 150mm Kiritsuke*:

View attachment 149845

Stones looking pretty too! SG500, King 800, King 1200, Tanaka Aoto, BBW, Old Iyo. 2 x Turkish Oilstones.

View attachment 149846


* These are double-bevel versions. I am calling them Kiritsuke because that's what Ishizuchi call them when I buy the blades. Just in case any of you purists are getting worried about nomenclature ;).
What's the wood on the far left handle?
 
Not a sharpening picture per se, but rare footage of my stones being allowed onto the kitchen counter. Renovations are going on and stuff is getting on my stuff, and the wife graciously offered up some counter space.
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Jnat/scotch/preworkout cave
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What a mess 😑.
 
View attachment 150057Light touch up on a new Takeda 270mm gyuto. This one came with a decent edge, I tried Takeda’s touch up method, but still didn’t quite get there. Shobu suita/Tsushima nagura (can’t get enough of this thing), quite keen, decently toothy. Isn’t at the keenness of a hard finisher, but is very smooth with some feedback through paper towel. Resulting edge feels a bit different than white #2, possibly somewhat aggressive? Although more likely my technique is inconsistent.

Having done a full synthetic sharpen on a similarly ground bunka, I much, much prefer doing a more extensive touch up on natural stones, as it takes much less steel off. The angles are hard to keep when grinding at lower grits, and small mistakes turn into big ones when you have to grind away at a 6mm wide bevel made of 2 different steels. Definitely not excited for the first full sharpen of the sujihiki version of this.

Cool! That's a lotta knife... would probably make my Tank look small in comparison too!
 
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Trying out my beautiful new (old) hard black on a few things recently:

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And another, starting with a Nakayama Tomae:

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Also needed to thin this little parer slightly on SG500, and then tried a fun 'hybrid edge' with a translucent ark after:

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Though I think I'll probably revert to this, my absolute favourite stone of all:

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Quite a good memory my friend, it is a stabilized piece of maple burl!

And it's feckin' lovely, gracias! Going to a good home too... a friend who was for a long time the GM at a seriously good Michelin-starred restaurant in London, though now moved back to her native New Zealand.
 
And it's feckin' lovely, gracias! Going to a good home too... a friend who was for a long time the GM at a seriously good Michelin-starred restaurant in London, though now moved back to her native New Zealand.
Pretty cool that a block of wood that started in my little workshop is in the hands of a professional on the other side of the world!
 
The lowliest of the low. IKEA something and a grocery store petty I de-serrated, converted to double bevel, and thinned. Maybe thinned too much, as the edge I put on it came back pretty destroyed. This thing must be made of putty. Cerax 320 for fun (and speed) and maybe a few NP1k swipes to keen it up a bit.

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Update - kinda hard to get a crisp clean edge on the cerax. Interesting. I mean it’s a great stone, very fast for repairs and setting bevels, but producing a final edge is uncharted waters to me. NP1k did the trick. I wonder how much of it is a product of just how bad the steel is.
 
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Sorry for the bad pic but this is my Hinokuni Shirogami #1 180mm gyuto. You can see it has two high spots that were causing some accordioning and it was time to see what I could do about it.

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I think @cotedupy and @stringer can appreciate this. Pulled out the Norton Course Crystolon and started in.


My back is toast any more so once I got the profile mostly fixed I needed a break. Did some thinning later in the day but it'll be something I need to get back to to finish up.
 
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An odd combination: aizu nagura on a hard suita. Heavy lifting on NP1k. The stone has given some keen edges in the past, but fairly polished. Added some crunch to the mix and it retains most of the fine edge feel, with much aggression.

The knife is one my wife made me buy at a shop in Tokyo for about $30. It’s a discount crazy thin nakiri that was clearly unsalvageable. The choil shot says single bevel, it’s badly warped and way overground in a few spots. It’s responsible for starting me down the sharpening road, and is horribly ugly as a result, but it’s the only knife she’ll use so it gets plenty of attention. Cuts quite nicely somehow.
 
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