epoxy advice

[zzoldtown]

So I'm re-handling a knife, and I'd like to attach the scales without rivets or pins. I was thinking I would drill some shallow holes that correspond to the tang holes, and allow the hardened epoxy to act as a pin. should that work?

 

[cotedupy]

In a word: yes.

That’ll work grand.

 

[PolishAvenger]

So I'm re-handling a knife, and I'd like to attach the scales without rivets or pins. I was thinking I would drill some shallow holes that correspond to the tang holes, and allow the hardened epoxy to act as a pin. should that work?

Remember that not all epoxies are created equal. If you plan on only doing this job once, stay away from fast-cure and products that may have been on a peg hook for years. I can wholeheartedly recommend Acraglass and G-Flex. West Systems makes some excellent stuff.

 

[cotedupy]

Remember that not all epoxies are created equal. If you plan on only doing this job once, stay away from fast-cure and products that may have been on a peg hook for years.

^THIS^

Cheap epoxy is almost as much of a false economy as cheap sandpaper is.

 

[Frosty]

I've just about used up my first kit of G/Flex 650 and I can highly recommend it. It's so much better than other similar products you might pick up from a hardware store or similar. Epoxy choice does actually matter. The little kits of G/Flex actually go a really long way, too. Almost surprisingly so.

Your plan to use epoxy as hidden pins will absolutely work, but you can also do almost the exact same thing using something like carbon fiber pin stock to span that gap and it will have significantly higher shear strength than just epoxy alone. Think of it a bit like rebar. Still hidden, not terribly hard to do, but will greatly increase the overall strength of the handle construction. Prep the pin stock by cleaning it well with a strong solvent, and rough it up with around 80 grit sandpaper/emery. It will be just as strong as a normal pinned handle, but the pins will be hidden. Epoxy to seal and handle peel-strength, physical pins to deal with shear forces.

 

[tostadas]

For knives, no need to over think it. Just get gflex. It works very well.

 

[hd_snow]

Another vote for G-flex. I have never had it fail, and I have used it for things that I expected it to.

While, I believe it should work without pins. I like the alignment aid the pins provide while clamping three items that like to shift around. Also, it provides a little extra peace of mind and it would only takes a few minutes to blind drill four (2 per scale) holes. Especially if the tang already has the holes drilled.

I would use the method Frosty outlined but use whatever pin stock I had in inventory. Heck you could use two cut nails they are going to be hidden.

 

[Tim Rowland]

Another tip of the hat to g-flex...I have used it on over 1000 knives. It is the industry standard for a reason.

 

[Patriot Blacksmithing]

Another vote for g flex ! Designed for marine environment so your project should be no problem.

 

[sansho]

accurate measuring (use a scale with enough resolution) and thorough mixing (spend minutes mixing) are very important. otherwise, you get inferior material properties and prolonged stinkage.

 

[aporigine]

accurate measuring (use a scale with enough resolution) and thorough mixing (spend minutes mixing) are very important. otherwise, you get inferior material properties and prolonged stinkage.

Coming from a lab environment, I wholly concur that spending much time mixing is crucial. It’s shocking how long it takes a viscous clear component to achieve homogeneity with something dyed.

Without the dye, it’s easy to undermix.

 

[sansho]

as soon as i pour a pot, i start a stopwatch and spend a solid three minutes manually mixing. that also lets me keep an eye on the pot life as i work.

i set the remnant aside and inspect a couple of days later before throwing it away.

also, i hate epoxy stank. i use a fume hood or wear a respirator.

 

[sansho]

I was thinking I would drill some shallow holes that correspond to the tang holes, and allow the hardened epoxy to act as a pin.

Your plan to use epoxy as hidden pins will absolutely work, but you can also do almost the exact same thing using something like carbon fiber pin stock to span that gap and it will have significantly higher shear strength than just epoxy alone.

yeah, i wouldn't bother drilling holes just to fill with epoxy, but for an actual hidden pin, sure. for a kitchen knife handle, i'd think flat surfaces (properly prepped) with epoxy is plenty strong.

 

[sansho]

https://www.westsystem.com/compare-epoxy-physical-properties/

 

[Nemo]

Edit: Nvm. Misunderstood your initial Qn

 

[Patriot Blacksmithing]

Another trick is to mix a little saw dust into epoxy the color of handle . If you have small areas exposed they will color match.