Fredrik Spåre Impressions

Japanese Knives - by Tokushu Knife
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I think in general blade size / height / profile is very much personal preference. For me going above 50mm I find the experience less pleasing. Others might say the extreme opposite. But personally I prefer the blades with less blade height in my lineup. After a while you get used to anything though.
It's a bit hard for me to describe why I prefer 50mm-ish, I just know I do.
Never had any issues with knuckle clearance... but I'm not even bothered by a 210 petty in that regard. :D
For me personally shorter wouldn't be my jam, but ask 10 people and you'll probably have 10 different opinions.

Personally I would actually welcome a 'pimped up KS'. I have a KS and it's my favorite knife (due to combination of profile + monosteel), but it looks a bit on the dull side and it could do with a fancier steel (edge retention is not breathtaking). Make it out of 1.2519 mono... give it a bit more ass + taper... mmmmm.
But I understand it's hard to cater to everyone since a lot of people have completely opposing preferences.
 
Jovidah said:
I think in general blade size / height / profile is very much personal preference. For me going above 50mm I find the experience less pleasing. Others might say the extreme opposite. But personally I prefer the blades with less blade height in my lineup. After a while you get used to anything though.
It's a bit hard for me to describe why I prefer 50mm-ish, I just know I do.
Never had any issues with knuckle clearance... but I'm not even bothered by a 210 petty in that regard. :D
For me personally shorter wouldn't be my jam, but ask 10 people and you'll probably have 10 different opinions.

Personally I would actually welcome a 'pimped up KS'. I have a KS and it's my favorite knife (due to combination of profile + monosteel), but it looks a bit on the dull side and it could do with a fancier steel (edge retention is not breathtaking). Make it out of 1.2519 mono... give it a bit more ass + taper... mmmmm.
But I understand it's hard to cater to everyone since a lot of people have completely opposing preferences.
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Thanks for sharing your perspective and you are 100% of course. Ill keep that in mind as we move forward with new designs. The current Gyuto has been so popular I can't imagine making such broad changes, but I'll discuss this with Fredrik and perhaps we will come up with something, "MCX Gyuto Low Pro".
 
Very much personal preference indeed. I'm glad I got one of the first batch at 230x53, which is just about my ideal for that length. 56-57mm on the current batch is a little taller than I like, 50mm is fine for a 210 but a little shorter than I'd want in a 230.

If I had to articulate why I don't love really tall heels: above about 54mm, the cutting edge starts to feel more distant from where I'm pinching the blade face, and therefore like I have less precise control of where it's going. (Obviously someone with bigger hands or a more/less choked up pinch grip would experience that feeling with different heel heights). I don't know if this perception actually makes any difference in the end result, but it feels that way. I do use some tall blades (BB+D at 58mm, CCK at like 90mm) and they're fun but not what I grab by default.
 
200x50mm sounds like a long bunka?

Personally I only appreciate >50mm when I’m double rock chopping, so I specifically reach for a taller blade when I know I need extra fine garlic. Lower blades like Yoshikane, Kurosaki (around 47mm) do feel a little more intimate as @timebard points out - closer to the cutting action with a better sense of control.

For my 210 and larger gyutos honestly I don’t really much care about the height in general. I recently got a 225x59 that I thought would be way too tall but I quite like it especially for bigger jobs.

When I know I need to do finer cuts or just a quick small prep I reach for a bunka or 180mm gyuto. I’m actually on Frederick’s list for a bunka as I seem to be using that size a lot these days.
 
moderncooking said:
@Luxusborg and everyone else who managed to snatch one of the 2nd edition blades, thank you very much for your on going support. Unbelievable how fast this batch sold, Fredrik and I are very humbled and proud of the series.

Next MCX Fredrik Spåre drop will be in April, it won't be a Gyuto, but we will certainly follow that drop with more Gyutos in May.

Also, while you bunka down and wait for that drop you may see an MCX Martin Huber Gyuto. For those that don't know Martins work, he is the unofficial San Mai king of Europe (a title I have given him). Check this out for reference
😉👍
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I vaguely recall seeing a list of planned MCX collabs somewhere - was Neil Ayling on that list or is that wishful thinking?
 
timebard said:
Very much personal preference indeed. I'm glad I got one of the first batch at 230x53, which is just about my ideal for that length. 56-57mm on the current batch is a little taller than I like, 50mm is fine for a 210 but a little shorter than I'd want in a 230.

If I had to articulate why I don't love really tall heels: above about 54mm, the cutting edge starts to feel more distant from where I'm pinching the blade face, and therefore like I have less precise control of where it's going. (Obviously someone with bigger hands or a more/less choked up pinch grip would experience that feeling with different heel heights). I don't know if this perception actually makes any difference in the end result, but it feels that way. I do use some tall blades (BB+D at 58mm, CCK at like 90mm) and they're fun but not what I grab by default.
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Thanks @timebard, very helpful! Its certainly that "grab by default" thing we are striving for. I have to say, with a sense of satisfaction, that I have been reaching for my MCX 230mm all the time. I don't have a million knives, but I can't think of a better way to judge a good one.

Having a sense of the blade edge is certainly something that you loose as the blade gets taller and longer. For me, I am with you 230x53-54 is just about perfect. I do have a 250 and even a 270 and while I do enjoy using them a lot I tend towards the 230/240 length a little more naturally. Short of making MCX a custom fit product its not easy to please everyone, as perviously mentioned, but we will do our best to keep making these for the masses and hopefully get something for everyone along the way.
 
Delat said:
I vaguely recall seeing a list of planned MCX collabs somewhere - was Neil Ayling on that list or is that wishful thinking?
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Neil was keen to do an MCX, but he currently does not have a power hammer and can't manage the numbers. We are however working on some more premium, integral exclusives. They should land on the site over the next month or so. Expect a unique handle design coupled with his classic profile with "S" grind
 
I would be ALLLL about a “pimped out” KS. I have one and I wish it were taller, had more distal taper (much fatter out of the handle) and would certainly not say no to a different steel. (Actually contemplating selling…if anyone is interested DM me…) I know that several companies have made a copy of the profile but all of them are clad. So a mono steel but a bit taller would be clutch.
 
tylerleach said:
I would be ALLLL about a “pimped out” KS. I have one and I wish it were taller, had more distal taper (much fatter out of the handle) and would certainly not say no to a different steel. (Actually contemplating selling…if anyone is interested DM me…) I know that several companies have made a copy of the profile but all of them are clad. So a mono steel but a bit taller would be clutch.
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Sounds like ya need a Kamon 250. Checks all your boxes and literally blows the KS right out the water performance wise.
 
esoo said:
I tried to hack together an acid solution using Bar Keepers friend in hot water. BKF is pretty acidic as I've found out in the past. It did an ok job of an etch but I've done better before using hot vinegar. However today I was short on vinegar.
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I use BKF o. my copper. The oxalic acid in it combined with the mild abrasive cleans it well without scratching the soft copper.

How do you do a hot vinegar or coffee etch?

Am I correct in understanding they can be undone with no harm to the knife?
 
Jeff said:
I use BKF o. my copper. The oxalic acid in it combined with the mild abrasive cleans it well without scratching the soft copper.

How do you do a hot vinegar or coffee etch?

Am I correct in understanding they can be undone with no harm to the knife?
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For a coffee etch you just mix up instant coffee really strong and soak it up to 24 hours. This instant coffee in particular is recommended blacksmith Neil Kamimura. It should be reversible with flitz or BKF, but I haven’t tried removing it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CVQZRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Delat said:
For a coffee etch you just mix up instant coffee really strong and soak it up to 24 hours. This instant coffee in particular is recommended my blacksmith Neil Kamimura. It should be reversible with flitz or BKF, but I haven’t tried removing it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CVQZRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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The one thing I will say from first hand experience with the coffee is that it will darken the blade substantially, like very substantially. So just know that going in if you choose to try it. It works super well with Damascus.
 
tylerleach said:
The one thing I will say from first hand experience with the coffee is that it will darken the blade substantially, like very substantially. So just know that going in if you choose to try it. It works super well with Damascus.
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The level of darkness depends on the steel. In this photo you can see the Kamon in 1.2519 turned battleship grey (dunked in Folgers, not Nescafé), while the Steele just below in 15n20 and 80crv2 turned jet black (dunked by Steele, not sure what coffee he used).

I was debating about dunking the Spare but ended up selling it to cover the bunka he’s making for me.

Interestingly that patina on the Kamon was removed with flitz before the dunk, but the etching brought it back.

C2F383D2-C8A2-497B-AFE0-9E90FBEC349A.jpeg
 
Delat said:
The level of darkness depends on the steel. In this photo you can see the Kamon in 1.2519 turned battleship grey (dunked in Folgers, not Nescafé), while the Steele just below in 15n20 and 80crv2 turned jet black (dunked by Steele, not sure what coffee he used).

I was debating about dunking the Spare but ended up selling it to cover the bunka he’s making for me.

Interestingly that patina on the Kamon was removed with flitz before the dunk, but the etching brought it back.

View attachment 169283
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I am so jealous right now...
 
I've used instant coffee in the past for forcing a patina and it worked quite well - if you're into a plain dark patina. Wasn't a damascus though so no clue what it does there.
 
Delat said:
For a coffee etch you just mix up instant coffee really strong and soak it up to 24 hours. This instant coffee in particular is recommended blacksmith Neil Kamimura. It should be reversible with flitz or BKF, but I haven’t tried removing it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CVQZRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

Don't use BKF to try and remove a patina, unless you have baking soda readily available to neutralize it. Learned this the hard way.
 
Ive used coffee and hot orange juice several times. The one thing to keep in mind, and I suspect this is why cheaper coffee or instant coffee is recommended, is that any oils will reduce or cause a blotchy result. Coffee naturally has oil in it and so I believe that is why instant coffee or cheaper coffee tends to get a better results as it likely has less oils.

For me the result with the hot OJ was pretty decent and it certainly does not have any substantial oils.
 
tylerleach said:
Even with a migaki finish? Kasumi powder?
ps. King stones may be cheap but dammit I love my King 1000… first stone I ever bought and it is still kickin.
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Most knives I've had have been clad, so a kasumi type finish always works.

And by cheap King stone, I'm talking the KD-80 250/1000 combi stone. Grind it off dry with a 140 grit plate. I've used the powder from both the 250 and 1000 sides. Or you could buy it - Tosho Knife Arts Kasumi Powder (3M Sponge Included) (40g).

I basically follow this:
 
esoo said:
Most knives I've had have been clad, so a kasumi type finish always works.

And by cheap King stone, I'm talking the KD-80 250/1000 combi stone. Grind it off dry with a 140 grit plate. I've used the powder from both the 250 and 1000 sides. Or you could buy it - Tosho Knife Arts Kasumi Powder (3M Sponge Included) (40g).

I basically follow this:
Click to expand...

Ahhh I gotcha. I’ve never tried getting powder off of a stone like that, that’s a great idea. Definitely have some projects to do now… Thank you for the advice!
 
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