FWIW, the SG 120 and 220 are so different from the rest of the line that they barely seem to have any relationship to the rest.I've read the stories about Global around here, but after all those years I was pleasantly surprised on how it sharpened. I didn't encounter the typical burr formation or removal problems I read about. I actually quite liked it, compared to those beaters I normally get from people around me
Just order the Shapton's (or VenevOP here.....the plot has certainly thickened since the first few replies! thanks for all the feedback, interesting reading for a newb, although I'm getting further away from the solution, was about to order a couple of shaptons after the first replies, now I haven't a clue what decision to make!!![]()
FWIW, the SG 120 and 220 are so different from the rest of the line that they barely seem to have any relationship to the rest.
In...all ways. 320 and above are pure white, and very smooth for their grit, which they release reluctantly. I can see nothing that ties those stones to the 120 and 220, which are rough metal-hogging stones that dish and, yes, glaze quickly.In what way? clogging?
I've found the Shapton dressing stone very helpful. Have used it so far only with the SG220 and 320.In...all ways. 320 and above are pure white, and very smooth for their grit, which they release reluctantly. I can see nothing that ties those stones to the 120 and 220, which are rough metal-hogging stones that dish and, yes, glaze quickly.
I can understand that in comparison to the coarser 120-220 Glass the #320 and #500 are whiter and more reluctant to grit release.In...all ways. 320 and above are pure white, and very smooth for their grit, which they release reluctantly. I can see nothing that ties those stones to the 120 and 220, which are rough metal-hogging stones that dish and, yes, glaze quickly.
I'm sorry that I may have not pointed out so clearly my hindrance vs. what one can do with a SG500 with some level of skills and understanding. It is one of the most versatile stone I've ever encountered of any grits.I used the shapton glass 500 as my sole coarse stone for more than a decade in a pro setting. That is how I used up three of them. I rehabbed and thinned and maintained dozens of globals during that time. Along with all manner of other knives from very cheap to top of the line. The SG500 is fast enough to do major repairs on any kind of knife except for super steels. You will dish it a bit and it will take marginally longer than if you went to a 320 stone. But if you are only maintaining a couple of knives at home. Who cares? It will also have shallower scratches that take less time to clean up. And moving a little slower makes it a little less likely you do something counterproductive like sharpening in a frown or exacerbating geometry issues. Globals don't benefit from a lot of thinning. A little behind the edge and slap a new apex on it. They can't support a nail flexing geometry.
Over the last few years I have experimented quite a bit with oil stones. Crystolon and India are great but to me they are a next step after OP figures out why water stones are better than whatever pull through gadget they have been using. SG500 is that stone in my mind. Great driver's Ed vehicle.
To @Rangen's point. I purchased my first fancy bonded/resin not sure diamond stone recently. (Naniwa 600). And I have used it to rehab several globals actually. Globals that I have previously worked on extensively with SG500 over the years. And these knives coincidentally get used a lot with a pull through sharpener and always need some thinning. At least with the Naniwa Diamond I didn't find it faster than the SG500. But it did leave a more usable edge. I wouldn't recommend coarser diamond stones than this to a beginner. Mostly because I haven't tried any and don't really know anything about them.
A normal motion on a ceramic rod is edge leading: edge forward, abrading steel from one bevel, causing a burr on the other one.Hi all ,
im back
@Benuser
Hi i'm not sure what you mean by the rod technique you are advising....can you try explain again?
i think i fluked the good edge using my ceramic steel after the SP1000, ill need to experiment a bit more
I bought a 1000k ceramic steel by mistake! I meant to get something a lot finer
I tried another one of my globals last night and actually got a better edge with the SP1000
and a newspaper strop than i did using the rod after the SP,
i'm also now thinking should i even get a finer rod or should i just get a finer shapton instead
i really dont have the money at the moment to buy lots of stuff and dont want to anyway
i dont think it would be good for my learning, what grit rod if i go that route? what grit stone?
as mentioned i'm getting a great edge for general cooking, cuts paper but a bit snaggy at times
did the freestanding tomato trick last night but its still a bit toothy and would like it a little smoother
is this just technique, as i said before i wanted to just get the SP1000 and learn on that
but ill add another stone or rod if its going to make the difference
many thanks
Sorry, I'm a bit stoopid it seems, do you mean this? Running it at the normal angle but in a straight line rather than sliding down the lengthA normal motion on a ceramic rod is edge leading: edge forward, abrading steel from one bevel, causing a burr on the other one.
By changing size and reducing pressure the burr will get smaller, but still remain, especially with Global's steel.
A therefore suggest the last motions not to be forward, nor edge trailing for the matter, but staying in place, going along the edge, when very lightly abrading the last remainings of the burr. It will have to be repeated a few times on both sides. Make sure they feel equally smooth.
Indeed!Sorry, I'm a bit stoopid it seems, do you mean this? Running it at the normal angle but in a straight line rather than sliding down the length
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That said, the ceramic rod I use is a really fine one, the ruby Sieger LongLife. Grit is close to 3k.Indeed!
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