As a beginner I have a question. What happens if I go like 800+3k+Strop on Victorinox or same kind of knives instead of only 1k stone? Can somebody explain it to me?
demirtasem,
Your question is too general to answer effectively. The "theoretical answer" is easy,,,,, but it would be far better to know precisely what you want to achieve,,, and that starts with knowing precisely what's "wrong" with your knife's present status,,,for example; is your knife almost brand new, and not cutting quite as well as it originally was? or,,,, are we talking about a knife that's been honed many times, and despite the re-honing, the knife still does not cut well? or,,,, is there visible deterioration of the cutting edge? Any one of those scenarios requires a different approach, and keeping it simple, or minimalistic,,,, is always best in my opinion. The last thing you want (or need), is to remove more metal than the situation calls for. If you "must" sharpen, then do so, but it should be considered as a last resort.
The "progression" that you mentioned (800/3k/strop), is fine,,,, but you can also get by with a concrete patio block,,,,,,.if you had to. It all boils down to how much time you're willing to spend at each stage of sharpening process to achieve the results you're looking for. Knowing how much, (or how litlle) pressure you need to apply through the various stages, is probably as important, if not more important, than the grit of abrasive you choose. You also want to think of what type of edge would best suit your needs,,, for example,,, you wouldn't want to sharpen an edge that's used primarily for chopping, in the same manner as an edge that's used primarily for slicing/carving.
Getting back to your 800/3k/strop suggestion,,,, the 800 stone might be fine as a starting point if there is very little if any visible damage to the cutting edge. A good 400 grit stone might be a better (and quicker) choice for rebuilding a visibly damaged edge. Starting on an 800 grit stone might be fine if the blade looks fine (little or no visible damage), but can't be brought back to "like-new" condition with a proper honing/feathering.