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I started honing it today. Judging by the hone wear it has never been used. I'm at about 600 laps or so on the SP1500. Still a couple little spots of pitting but it will clean up fine. I would have paid $100 cash for it no questions asked but luckily the guy didn't know what he had.


Very nice! And yeah - the rust didn't look bad to my eye, and given it's basically mint otherwise you can probably afford to lose a mm if needs be eh.

I showed your pic to Steve on B&B and he said - yes the scales are original, which would probably make it 1920s/30s. Also that 1st gen Especial 13s are pretty rare anyway, 14s would be more common. Sounds like you've got something of a collector's piece there then. :)

(You possibly knew all that already, but I didn't, and I find the history of the various Fili models and incarnations quite interesting.)
 
Very nice! And yeah - the rust didn't look bad to my eye, and given it's basically mint otherwise you can probably afford to lose a mm if needs be eh.

I showed your pic to Steve on B&B and he said - yes the scales are original, which would probably make it 1920s/30s. Also that 1st gen Especial 13s are pretty rare anyway, 14s would be more common. Sounds like you've got something of a collector's piece there then. :)

(You possibly knew all that already, but I didn't, and I find the history of the various Fili models and incarnations quite interesting.)
Thanks for asking for me. I probably would have been too lazy. I told my wife that I had found a super rare expensive highly sought after highly collectible razor that was worth at least 15 times what I paid for it. She rolled her eyes and said that that would only be impressive if I ever intended to sell it. I'm not even sure if it's worth mentioning to her that it was actually slightly more rare than I thought. :p
 
I told my wife that I had found a super rare expensive highly sought after highly collectible razor that was worth at least 15 times what I paid for it. She rolled her eyes and said that that would only be impressive if I ever intended to sell it.


Ah yes, I know this conversation very well indeed...


- OMG I just found this amazing yellow n purple stone. It only cost 'X', but it's worth '3X'.

- Oh well done. You'll be selling that one then, I assume?

- Of course not, don't be absurd. JUST LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL IT IS!!!
 
Thanks for asking for me. I probably would have been too lazy. I told my wife that I had found a super rare expensive highly sought after highly collectible razor that was worth at least 15 times what I paid for it. She rolled her eyes and said that that would only be impressive if I ever intended to sell it. I'm not even sure if it's worth mentioning to her that it was actually slightly more rare than I thought. :p
did it work out or will the pitting be problematic??
 
did it work out or will the pitting be problematic??

The edge is clean but there are a few small spots still on the bevel that I am working through. It wasn't very deep but it did get all the way to the edge, so I need to remove some metal. The steel is very impressive. Extra crispy. Reminds me of the way that Japanese razors feel on the stone except that it is ground much much thinner than any Japanese razor in my collection.
 
Ah yes, I know this conversation very well indeed...


- OMG I just found this amazing yellow n purple stone. It only cost 'X', but it's worth '3X'.

- Oh well done. You'll be selling that one then, I assume?

- Of course not, don't be absurd. JUST LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL IT IS!!!

“I think this is a pretty stone”

“I guess?”

“…for what it is.”

And women wonder why men don’t open up more.
 
I fished this one out of the bay. I would put it at pre-1880. Near wedge marked only "OLD ENGLISH" with mottled horn scales. What caught my eye was the etch. I bid the minimum and won the thing.
PXL_20230216_004126516.jpg
Upon close examination it appears to be an angel taking a piss. Definitely a first for me. :)
 
considering shaving off a coti tomorrow. it might even work. non pasted strop.

think the victim will be a carbon "electric" friedmann/lauterjung, i'd say its about half hollow.
yes that f/l stringer :)
 
so i did a quick polish on the razor with those small green and red tube pastes. then flitz. now its shiny and nice.

will post some pics tomorrow.

then to the actual sharpening. i'm fairly certain i had a gok20k edge on there.
so to erase that that edge i did some circles on the coti with slurry, i figured that would do the trick.
then edge leading for a few minutes, alternating side each stroke.
then maybe 200 laps on a leather strop.

and to my surprise i could actually shave with it. and it was kinda comfortable too.
dont know if the old gok edge has something to do with it.

now i need to work on my second and third passes. i really suck at those.
 
I don’t play with razors often, but this afternoon thought I should. So I got out every yellow stone I have just for good measure! Very amateurish at this razor thing but I’m sure after a playing around with lots of fine stones I’ll get something to work for me haha View attachment 225307
How did you make out?
I think the Kamisori razors are easier to hone than the full hollow westerns. Not wanting to open that can of worms of how to do it, but stiff small blades of good hard steel, they usually hone up really well.

Nice pile of stones there too. I could spend months getting to know each one.
 
How did you make out?
I think the Kamisori razors are easier to hone than the full hollow westerns. Not wanting to open that can of worms of how to do it, but stiff small blades of good hard steel, they usually hone up really well.

Nice pile of stones there too. I could spend months getting to know each one.
Shaved straight off the enormous kiita the razor is sitting on in the picture, worked great! Could pass HHT off all the stones, but that kiita was the best for getting me close to easily popping hairs HHT5 like.

Im definitely spoiled in the stone department these days!
 
All cleaned up.
Finished on an Escher.
Ready to rip a hole in my face if I am not careful.
Lately I've been shaving on Fridays.
I'll let you know how it goes.
when i first saw the pictures of that razor, i thought for sure the edge would look like swiss cheese. while the bevel isnt completely clean, there doesnt appear to be any issues at the edge. very nice \o/

sometimes it sucks chasing clean steel like that if there is a good amount of pitting. i tried shaving once with slight nicks in the edge on a razor i just could NOT find a clean section on. obviously it was a poor shave w/ plenty of irritation. would not recommend trying.
 
Shaved this morning with the Filarmonica. It was very nice. Not as crazy sharp as my Tanifujis. But no silent weepers that come with that either. Very skin friendly. Reminds me the most of decent German turn of the century stuff for grind and how it feels in your hand. With just a touch harder steel. Will make a great daily driver. Which for me is more like a weekly driver.
 
Wow - cave and Aladdin are two words which spring to mind.
Question: I recently got hold of a new leather strop from Dictum. It seems a bit rough texture wise - I have given it some balm that came with it - anything I should do to condition the leather or just bang on ahead and use it? I a a little nervous about putting an edge along it. Cheers.
I have actually only ever bought old beat up ones so I can't really comment on what to do with a new one. But I would say you don't need to do much. With the old ones I wash the dirt and grime off with saddle soap and water. I beat the leather up a bit and make sure it is pliable. Then I leave it out to dry. If it gets too dry I add a couple drops of neatsfoot oil. Which comes from cow shins or something. Very old school traditional way to condition leather. I also use natural human grease. A little gross. But the oils from your hands/forehead are really good for the strop over time. I give it a little rub before each use. If you overdress a strop it can leave residue on your razor or affect the draw in ways that diminish performance. Of course it does also depend on what kind of strop you are talking about. Cow/horse/pig/roo will all behave different. And depending on how the leather is treated and tanned and finished will add more complexity. But generally I would say don't overthink it. Try it out first and only tinker with it if something isn't right.
 
I have actually only ever bought old beat up ones so I can't really comment on what to do with a new one. But I would say you don't need to do much. With the old ones I wash the dirt and grime off with saddle soap and water. I beat the leather up a bit and make sure it is pliable. Then I leave it out to dry. If it gets too dry I add a couple drops of neatsfoot oil. Which comes from cow shins or something. Very old school traditional way to condition leather. I also use natural human grease. A little gross. But the oils from your hands/forehead are really good for the strop over time. I give it a little rub before each use. If you overdress a strop it can leave residue on your razor or affect the draw in ways that diminish performance. Of course it does also depend on what kind of strop you are talking about. Cow/horse/pig/roo will all behave different. And depending on how the leather is treated and tanned and finished will add more complexity. But generally I would say don't overthink it. Try it out first and only tinker with it if something isn't right.
Thanks!
 
For someone thinking about a foray into razors, any advice on where to start? Glancing at old/NOS kamisoris on ebay, but don't really know what I'm looking for (or trying to avoid, other than obvious junk). For sharpening/using it seems there's plenty of available guidance, but would love any advice on a first purchase. Or just encouragement to trust my gut and have at it!
 
I have the same question! I bought a stainless Celebrated Sheffield probably 50 to 80 years old but would like something with less romance and more carbon. I don’t suppose they’re making razors in Apex Ultra yet?…
 
Picking a used razor is a deep subject. Let me see what I can so with something brief.

Kamisori specifically:

The two sides are different. Look carefully at the side without the stampings. How wide is the bevel, and the honing strip? Did someone grind away at the center, to give the razor more life? That can be OK, but tread carefully. Is the honing strip worn evenly, the same height all the way along? If not, you may find some corrections to do, which could even include not reaching the edge in some spots. Unless you are confident about dealing with that, stay away.

General:
Skip anything with blurry pictures, or pictures of one side only.
Skip anything where the middle of the bevel is wide on one side and narrow on the other, and it's reversed for the bevel at the toe and heel. It's warped.
Skip anything with black spots anywhere near the bevel.
Skip anything that is taller at the toe than the heel, or vice versa. It's a sign of uneven honing over a long period.

You can break some of these rules once you know what you're doing and can make nuanced judgements.
 
For someone thinking about a foray into razors, any advice on where to start? Glancing at old/NOS kamisoris on ebay, but don't really know what I'm looking for (or trying to avoid, other than obvious junk). For sharpening/using it seems there's plenty of available guidance, but would love any advice on a first purchase. Or just encouragement to trust my gut and have at it!

100% for a first razor buy from a trusted source with a good reputation. if you have no experience with razors, it would probably be best to leave the ebay gambling until later where you know what to look for and can at least hone razors start to finish. buying NOS razors and "shave ready" ebay specials might leave you with a sour taste in your mouth starting out when you cant get a passable shave no matter what you try.

if you have no honing experience, especially dealing with problem razors(poor geometry). ebay will often times lead to frustration.
 
Figured it could be fun to jot down my experience with straights, especially since I finally made some progress this morning.


For reference, until a couple of years back my only experience shaving was with Gillette blades, and I never really enjoyed using them. On a whim I decided it might be fun trying a straight, and ordered myself a Dovo prima klang and a strop and tried to get to work.

Had a couple of months of somewhat painful experiences, but figured it was mostly bad technique on my part. Towards the end of this time I tried adding some cheap diamond paste to a strop to see if it could help - on it's own it didn't do much for me (note that this was before I really fell down the kitchen knife rabbit hole, and hence also before I started getting myself proper sharpening equipment). From there I brought the straight out less and less frequently.

A few weeks ago the itch to get using the straight again returned. By now I had begun a kitchen knife collection, had a set of sharpening stones between ca 400-8000grit as well as a couple of fun natural stones (of course I had to dip my toe in that as well...) Having gotten used to sharpening knives for my kitchen and realizing how sharp they can get I began pondering whether my discomfort with my razor had to do with dullness of the blade, and not just bad shaving technique. Reading a lot more about dovo razor quality control as well as edge tests/what to expect from a properly honed razor confirmed my suspicions.

Now, being the reasonable and economical person I am, naturally I ordered what I read was a well-considered natural finisher (a Nakayama + Asano naguras from JNS), as well as an Iwasaki for good measure.

...In my defense, I had already accepted I would fall down this rabbit hole and figured I might as well get myself set immediately.

The Iwasaki arrived sharper than anything I ever put an edge on - and most definitely sharper than my Dovo - but I was determined not to actually start using it until I new to properly hone my other straight. After reading some basics about setting the bevel, checking scratch patterns and such, I began. I was very slow and careful, and also very unsuccessful for a few tries. I tried a couple of times starting at 3000grit, and then after that failed I went down to 1000grit but kept failing somehow. Maybe worth to note that the bevel of my razor was slightly uneven, but aside from that I considered the geometry to look quite decent - at least spine was flat and the edge seemed properly parallell to it.

With sharpening my kitchen knives I had seen much quicker progress, but I had also dared to be much more reckless with my first few. After watching some video on bevel setting where the guy talking mentioned one of the mistakes people generally make with honing is not putting enought pressure, being scared to ruin their razor (although he also said you may have to ruin a couple to learn to do it well). With this encouragement and my experiences with kitchen knives, this morning I decided: to hell with it. I put my thus far unsatisfactorily dull Dovo to the Atoma 400 and aggressively ground away some steel and set a bevel I could be sure was my own, the razor screeching in agony at the diamonds. Evened out the bevel quite a bit in the process.

From there I went through everything I had up to 8000 grit (SG500, SP1000, SG3000, SP6000, Kitayama 8000), now only letting up on pressure properly towards the end strokes of each stone. Low and behold, for the first time, the edge felt properly sharp! Not quite doing consistent hanging hair tests, and some trouble treetopping, but at least popping hairs on my arm. I put it to the Nakayama through a progression of Asano naguras, and finally just running water, and I finally had at least a decent edge, and for the first time got to feel out a somewhat straight shave. It can definitely still get better, and I also need to experiment with stropping a bit (went straight of the stones today to make sure I didn't accidentally ruin anything stropping), but as a start, I'm very happy. Will be away from home for a few days now, but am really looking forward to getting home and start perfecting my razor edge. Also have a rather hard Aiiwatani+nagura that I might experiment a bit with.


Lessons learned from this journey? The main one is probably: read up enough before starting not to order a factory Dovo expecting it to be shave ready (reading up now, I would probably have gotten a Ralf Aust razor, wouldn't have cost me much more - might just get one to try anyways). That and don't be afraid to just go for it when you start working out how to hone.
 
Out of curiosity: how do you finish your favorite edges? Any stones you prefer? Do you always find stropping improves performance or are there stones you prefer shaving off without intermediary stropping?

Also, if anyone else is using a hard Nakayama to finish, do you find it fine to jump straight from an 8000grit synthetic to the Nakayama+Botan nagura or do you add a middle step? If so, what?
 
Out of curiosity: how do you finish your favorite edges? Any stones you prefer?

My baseline is Naniwa Super Stone 12k. I measure other finishers by whether or not they can improve the SS 12k. It is very sharp but comfortable. The Shapton Pro 12k is pretty good. Coticules don't get keen enough to be called finishers for me. My favorite finishers are Escher thuringian, surgical Black Arkansas, and jasper. I have one Japanese natural that I like how it finishes but not the shape of the stone. I think I am going to try and cut it.



Do you always find stropping improves performance or are there stones you prefer shaving off without intermediary stropping?

I always prefer stropping immediately before shaving. And I like a quick draw. I use horse shell. It makes the razor both keener and more comfortable. I can't imagine a circumstance where I would not want to strop.



Also, if anyone else is using a hard Nakayama to finish, do you find it fine to jump straight from an 8000grit synthetic to the Nakayama+Botan nagura or do you add a middle step? If so, what?

I think my jnat finisher is a Nakayama, but not really sure. But I don't do any of the Japanese nagura stuff. My philosophy is make sure your bevel is really really set and then the other stones shouldn't take too much time to refine the very apex. My progression is usually just:

Shapton Pro 1500 for bevel set
(This is plenty fast enough for me to eliminate even 1-2 mm chips pretty quickly. I can't imagine putting a straight razor on an atoma 400.)
Coticule for mid range
Finisher
Horsehide shell strop

If I have issues then I will use the SS12k to troubleshoot.

Wedges are the only thing I use tape on the spine or loaded strops for.
 
Stuff to avoid:

1. Cracks and chips

some minor chips (<.5 mm) are not worth worrying about.

cracks of any size on or near the bevel pretty much make the razor unusable

2. Excessive wear

3. Uneven wear / frowns

4. Broken or crooked scales

5. High price - mostly based on condition and desirability of the brand name

If you want a NOS razor from one of the really hyped brands then it will cost you on eBay.

6. Pitting/rust

7. Anything marked Pakistan

8. Novelty Razors / Razor Shaped Objects

9. Heel spurs

10. Over-restored razors




Stuff I like (this is all super personal)

1. Hollow ground blades are easier for me to hone and use than half hollows or wedges. I think they are easier for beginners too.

2. Western style Japanese razors. I love them, not necessarily great for beginners. Harder steel is less forgiving on your skin. I only have one kamisori that I got before I was into straights and I have lost it. So I really have nothing to say about them.

3. Swedish razors - often too small and dainty. But really good steel. Anything marked Eskilstuna will be pretty good.

4. Henckels Friodur - excellent razors. Bonus points for Japanese market Henckels. Creme de la creme for German razors which are the most consistently excellent razors in general for the past 150 years.

5. Utilitarian Americans. Lots of great users in great shape for great prices from New England, New York, and elsewhere USA on eBay
 
Got a new one.

My favorite most used razor in my collection is a Cape 1372 For Barber's Use Swedish Steel from Japan. Basically the best of all possible worlds. Swedish steel, Japanese heat treat, German hollow grind, Tanifuji design. The one I have is "well loved". Found a NOS one for a rather reasonable price. Makes a rather lovely pair in my opinion.

PXL_20230309_024619009.jpg
 
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