Would this be a reasonable Kamisori or should I look for something on Jauce?
https://japaneseknifedirect.com/col...20-blue-steel-no-2-japanese-traditional-razor
https://japaneseknifedirect.com/col...20-blue-steel-no-2-japanese-traditional-razor
It looks great. I’m not sure about the blue steel but it should be good. I haven’t come across any other vintage razors that reveal their steel choice except tamahagane. The wrapping looks great, but if not careful and you get it wet it can lead to rusting as it traps water/moisture. If you are careful, that shouldn’t be a problem as I never get water on the scales of a traditional razor anyways. The grind and finish looks awful like the Iwasaki ones…Would this be a reasonable Kamisori or should I look for something on Jauce?
https://japaneseknifedirect.com/col...20-blue-steel-no-2-japanese-traditional-razor
https://couteauxjapon.fr/18-rasage-japonaisWould this be a reasonable Kamisori or should I look for something on Jauce?
https://japaneseknifedirect.com/col...20-blue-steel-no-2-japanese-traditional-razor
Blue steel strikes me as an idiosyncratic choice for a razor. One of the nice things about blue steel for kitchen knives is that it seems to add a bit of extra bite, which is the last thing you want in a razor.Would this be a reasonable Kamisori or should I look for something on Jauce?
https://japaneseknifedirect.com/col...20-blue-steel-no-2-japanese-traditional-razor
Blue steel strikes me as an idiosyncratic choice for a razor. One of the nice things about blue steel for kitchen knives is that it seems to add a bit of extra bite, which is the last thing you want in a razor.
Most Japanese razors I've seen use Swedish Steel (whatever that is), tamahagane, or Yazuki steel, which I understand to be an attempt to make synthetic steel with tamahagane-like characteristics. I've shaved with all three, and they can all produce nice keen comfortable edges that are a joy to shave with, right at the very top for my preferences.
Blue steel is something I've seen only once, on a vintage Iwasaki collaboration that I could not resist grabbing. I wanted to answer the question: why isn't blue steel used in razors? It seems like an obvious choice.
I knew going in that I would be more likely to get an answer to the question than a razor I'd love shaving with, and I did. I have not yet been able to get a comfortable shaving edge on the thing, just aggressive angry edges. Haven't tried with a coticule, though; that's next.
Of course it is entirely possible that this maker knows what he is doing, and has found ways to overcome the difficulties that have made blue steel razors uncommon. But I'd not want to take the risk, myself, without clear reviews.
That is very interesting, and I did not know it. If I were making a razor out of Yasuki Blue No 2, though, I'd go to great pains to make that completely clear to experienced buyers, including stamping it on the blade, as others have done.It also gets confusing because Yasuki steel is also split into 3 categories white, blue, and yellow and grades #1 and #2 just like the normal "paper" steels. So when the vendor says Blue #2 they might be saying aogami 2 or they might be saying Yasuki blue 2. Hard to say. But Yasuki and Tamahagane are the only ones I have personally seen labeled as well. Although for folders, I don't buy kamisori.
Actually, it looks like they are the same thing. Yasuki is the city where Hitachi makes paper steels. They just seen to call them Yasuki for razors and Hitachi for knives.That is very interesting, and I did not know it. If I were making a razor out of Yasuki Blue No 2, though, I'd go to great pains to make that completely clear to experienced buyers, including stamping it on the blade, as others have done.
Now I'm just confused. I have definitely seen, multiple places, tales of Yazuki steel being the mass production version of tamahagane, or as close as they can come to it, and the shave experience makes that plausible. I guess I need to poke around and see whether I can come up with a clear narrative that makes sense of all this.Actually, it looks like they are the same thing. Yasuki is the city where Hitachi makes paper steels. They just seen to call them Yasuki for razors and Hitachi for knives.
Now I'm just confused. I have definitely seen, multiple places, tales of Yazuki steel being the mass production version of tamahagane, or as close as they can come to it, and the shave experience makes that plausible. I guess I need to poke around and see whether I can come up with a clear narrative that makes sense of all this.
Originally Yasugi (Yasuki) steel was made from the steel produced from sand iron at a plant in Yasugi City in Shimane perfecture. Tartara steel is also made there. The plant is now owned by Hitachi which produces a wide range of steels.
Actually, it looks like they are the same thing.
Ah, there seems to be a difference between the historical version and the current version. So only the name has lived on, maybe.
Not sure if this is allowed but if not the mods can kindly remove the link.
Here is a little history about Yasuki steel.
https://historyrazors.wordpress.com/2016/09/06/hitachi-y-s-s-yasuki-speciality-steel/
No problem. The site is a wealth of info on mines, stones naguras, razors. Tıkıra has done an excellent job.I have seen that before but couldn't remember where. Thanks.
They got all the Iwasaki and Tanifuji info.
Personally I wouldn’t go with a coticule for blue steel that has a bitey edge, unless you have a super hard and fine one that polishes great like a La Verte. I’d probably choose a German slate that refines and polishes the edge. I don’t see why you shouldn’t get a comfortable edge if the heat treating is good and you have a hard steel…Blue steel strikes me as an idiosyncratic choice for a razor. One of the nice things about blue steel for kitchen knives is that it seems to add a bit of extra bite, which is the last thing you want in a razor.
Most Japanese razors I've seen use Swedish Steel (whatever that is), tamahagane, or Yazuki steel, which I understand to be an attempt to make synthetic steel with tamahagane-like characteristics. I've shaved with all three, and they can all produce nice keen comfortable edges that are a joy to shave with, right at the very top for my preferences.
Blue steel is something I've seen only once, on a vintage Iwasaki collaboration that I could not resist grabbing. I wanted to answer the question: why isn't blue steel used in razors? It seems like an obvious choice.
I knew going in that I would be more likely to get an answer to the question than a razor I'd love shaving with, and I did. I have not yet been able to get a comfortable shaving edge on the thing, just aggressive angry edges. Haven't tried with a coticule, though; that's next.
Of course it is entirely possible that this maker knows what he is doing, and has found ways to overcome the difficulties that have made blue steel razors uncommon. But I'd not want to take the risk, myself, without clear reviews.
BTW, rumour has it that these Cape razors are Tanifuji made razors. Some argue that unless a razor has his name stamped, it is not a Tanifuji, but I disagree as I have one and have seen several that have Tanifuji on the boxes and not on the razors…Ok, so here's what I found in my horde.
I have three Capes that are all labeled Swedish Steel.
View attachment 286606
I have one Star Reito that is labeled "Special Steel" in English on one side. The other side has Japanese characters that I think someone translated for me as "Yasuki Steel" at one point.
View attachment 286607
View attachment 286608
BTW, rumour has it that these Cape razors are Tanifuji made razors. Some argue that unless a razor has his name stamped, it is not a Tanifuji, but I disagree as I have one and have seen several that have Tanifuji on the boxes and not on the razors…
Awesome collection…
I hate cheap plastic razors and have an electric one.
Japanese Razors by Iwasaki look very nice and I'm
probably going to get one early in 2024.
But that means I have to get 5/5 Razor stone to add to my JNat collection.
I think I owe you a beer, if our paths ever cross. You were indeed correct. I've used coticules to make a comfortable edge from uncomfortably hard steel razors, notably the freakish Titan at 70 hardness, but it did not work for this blue steel razor. A ragged, uncomfortable edge is what I got instead.Personally I wouldn’t go with a coticule for blue steel that has a bitey edge, unless you have a super hard and fine one that polishes great like a La Verte. I’d probably choose a German slate that refines and polishes the edge. I don’t see why you shouldn’t get a comfortable edge if the heat treating is good and you have a hard steel…
Swedish stew used to be imported because it was very pure not unlike white steel that Hitachi makes…
I hope you get a spectacular shave from it.I think I owe you a beer, if our paths ever cross. You were indeed correct. I've used coticules to make a comfortable edge from uncomfortably hard steel razors, notably the freakish Titan at 70 hardness, but it did not work for this blue steel razor. A ragged, uncomfortable edge is what I got instead.
So I broke out the Escher. I try to hide it from my thoughts, partly because it has not yet nearly justified its expense by earning a place around here, and partly because it is annoyingly narrow. Clearly its time had arrived.
After plenty of strokes on the posh Thuringen, , the edge feels more like a normal clean sharp razor edge. I have not shaved with it yet, that's for tomorrow, but I am in the (bad?) habit of testing edges with whatever digit doesn't have current cuts on it. One advantage is that you get the feel of the edge, comfortable or nasty or ragged or clean or harsh or whatever, and this edge finally feels as though it will deliver a non-irritating shave.
I'll update tomorrow, after the shave, but if that goes the way I now expect it to go: how did you know that the slate would do this? I had no prior lore that would have guided me in this direction.
Glad to hear that mate. I always go slow. I also alternate every time regardless of grit, even for bevel setting. All that is done with super light pressure on all grits. Takes longer but it is worth it.Forgot to update: the Escher/blue steel shave was much improved. Still not what I'd call comfortable, but not harsh. This definitely worked. I'll try more slurry next time. Also, slower strokes at the end, which someone here taught me was a great way to tame very hard steel razors like this one.
Thank you. I will try the glycerine. Alas, I'm going to be stubborn about the compound. But I will happily try my equivalent post-finishing ritual, doing a final finish on a Translucent Ark. That has worked so well on a ready-to-shave edge that it almost threatens to make differences among my finishers irrelevant.Glad to hear that mate. I always go slow. I also alternate every time regardless of grit, even for bevel setting. All that is done with super light pressure on all grits. Takes longer but it is worth it.
I would also highly recommend couple of other things.
One is to try your coticule with glycerine for finishing. Super light pressure. If it is a big one and fast, you won’t need more than 40 strokes per side.
Second thing, keep in mind I’m a purist and I resisted this for many years, black here old strop compound on denim strop. 15 per side and you get much more comfortable shaves with all stones including JNATs, Coticules and eschers. It was recommended to me by a dear friend with much more experience than me who has used hundreds of stones of all kinds. He has now settled on a German slate and 12k Naniwa SS and the stropping compound. He has sold all his other stones although he regrets letting some go as he won’t be able to replace them easily…
Let me know how you get on…
My understanding about arka is that they only polish the edge and do t remove much of any steel. Sorta like the migaki-bo burnishing needle. I might be completely off the mark as well… They might be tempered very hard. How do they feel on other stones? Glassy?This steel talk has me wondering about these guys. They seem to be more modern but I don't really know. They are larger than most and one (maybe both) of them wanted nothing at all to do with novaculite. I was under the impression that an ark finisher was removing the softer steel at a much higher rate than it could finish the edge but I don't know that for a fact.
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