New at handle making

[Ruppertsreef]

Looking for someone to chat with about making some handles. I have tried casting one out of epoxy with decent results but I want to inlay something in the handle. So need a channel. Not sure how to go about this and just looking for some advice or techniques

These two picture show a handle I made a silicone mold of and then cast in epoxy with the knife set in. Getting it straight during curing was a pain and I’m sure there is an easier way. I then coated it in Opal and seal and sanded it. Sanded off a bit too much and not happy with how it turned out.

I believe for the next attempt I would like to make it out of wood and have a channel cut in the handle to inlay similar to the inlay channel of this ring just larger.

Just lost on where to start

 

[Bensbites]

Reach out. What tools do you have?

Start with scrap wood, your first one will be trash, maybe your first 10.

Drill a hole down the center. Add a slotted dowel.

Cut to square/rectangle size you like.

Cut, sand or route your facets however you like.

Cutting your groove, I can think of multiple ways, hand file, table saw. Ect.

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Reach out. What tools do you have?

Start with scrap wood, your first one will be trash, maybe your first 10.

Drill a hole down the center. Add a slotted dowel.

Cut to square/rectangle size you like.

Cut, sand or route your facets however you like.

Cutting your groove, I can think of multiple ways, hand file, table saw. Ect.

I don’t have much tools but I do have access to them.

If I were to take a piece of wood 5 inches long. 1x1 square. And wanted to add some g10 spacers would I drill the hole and then cut it into pieces.

Also what would you recommend for the end so there isn’t a hole where the knife goes in. Do you cap with g10 or would you cut a smaller piece of wood with a slot before drilling the hole?

 

[birdsfan]

I usually drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole in the top of the handle blank, cut the top piece off, then drill the top side of the remaining block for a slotted down, then drill a similar larger hole in the bottom of the cap piece. Then I use a little rasp to cut the slot in the top of the cap piece so it fits the tang of the knife with minimal gap.

Feel free to reach out with any questions. This is a helpful community with a lot of people who dabble in handle making. You will get good advice here!

 

[Bensbites]

I usually drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole in the top of the handle blank, cut the top piece off, then drill the top side of the remaining block for a slotted down, then drill a similar larger hole in the bottom of the cap piece. Then I use a little rasp to cut the slot in the top of the cap piece so it fits the tang of the knife with minimal gap.

Feel free to reach out with any questions. This is a helpful community with a lot of people who dabble in handle making. You will get good advice here!

This ^^ is how I have been making them for 6 yrs.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

Check out www.coltonhandcrafted.com

He sells a very good and pretty thorough handle making guide for like ~$15. I have it and it has been very helpful. I don't use all the same tools he does or exactly mimic is style but it is still an excellent resource.

 

[xsmx13]

@birdsfan @Bensbites

Do either of you have suggestions on files/rasps for adjusting/cutting the slot for the tang? What I've found that seem small enough for the task don't cut very well.

 

[tostadas]

@birdsfan @Bensbites

Do either of you have suggestions on files/rasps for adjusting/cutting the slot for the tang? What I've found that seem small enough for the task don't cut very well.

A broach is helpful. Not super speedy but faster than a metal file. A problem with many of the cheaper broaches out there is maximum depth. The one I posted a pic of here by John perry is the best one I've found but is pricy.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...andles-for-japanese-handles.63382/post-967398

 

[Bensbites]

@birdsfan @Bensbites

Do either of you have suggestions on files/rasps for adjusting/cutting the slot for the tang? What I've found that seem small enough for the task don't cut very well.

I have a couple things I use.

1) jigsaw blade with vice grips as a handle.

2) "fine woodworking files". $12 on Amazon for a set. The useful ones are about 3x10 mm for slots.

 

[birdsfan]

The rasps that I like the best I got from Woodcraft. They are a bit longer than the yellow handled set that I got from....somewhere online. I looked at their online site and they only mentioned a set for like $55. my local retail store sells one-off rasps for $9 each. I got a round tapered, and a flat squared. Between the 2, they are everything I need..

 

[xsmx13]

The rasps that I like the best I got from Woodcraft. They are a bit longer than the yellow handled set that I got from....somewhere online. I looked at their online site and they only mentioned a set for like $55. my local retail store sells one-off rasps for $9 each. I got a round tapered, and a flat squared. Between the 2, they are everything I need..

Do they look the same as these? If so, I'll have to run over and check out the local Woodcraft if I can get a chance to break away from the office. Thanks!

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/needle-rasp-set-w-handle

 

[birdsfan]

They look the same as the ones in the kit, just sold imdividually. By all means check out the store. Inventory varies from location to location, but they always have some cool blocks of wood to check out as well.

 

[gregfisk]

I have a couple of different ways I cut slots for the tang. I built a device using a trim router and adjustable guides for cutting in the aluminum end pieces which works really well. I also made a cutting tool from a ground down saber saw blade which works well for wood. The funny thing is that I originally made the saw blade tool for pumpkin carving and later realized how well it worked for knife handle making.

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Ok making a trial one with some oak.

Picked up some 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 oak.

Drill pressed 3/16 hole. Cut off an inch and 1/4 then used 7/16 bit to drill the rest. Drilled a bit into the smaller piece I cut off and filed the hole to a rectangle. Cut a slit in dowel and fitted it all together then glued and after it was set popped out the knife.

Waiting for a belt sander I ordered to arrive and then will shape it up. If I am happy will make a set of 3 with more exciting wood.


Few questions- do you finish with a poly or shellac or use tung oil?

Any reason some people use stabilized woods over just a normal dried wood?

Never used a belt sander before but do you do all sanding on this or do final sanding by hand and to what grit (if so wet or dry sanding)

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Ok making a trial one with some oak.

Picked up some 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 oak.

Drill pressed 3/16 hole. Cut off an inch and 1/4 then used 7/16 bit to drill the rest. Drilled a bit into the smaller piece I cut off and filed the hole to a rectangle. Cut a slit in dowel and fitted it all together then glued and after it was set popped out the knife.

Waiting for a belt sander I ordered to arrive and then will shape it up. If I am happy will make a set of 3 with more exciting wood.


Few questions- do you finish with a poly or shellac or use tung oil?

Any reason some people use stabilized woods over just a normal dried wood?

Never used a belt sander before but do you do all sanding on this or do final sanding by hand and to what grit (if so wet or dry sanding)

Forgot to add a photo of my current progress

 

[tostadas]

Few questions- do you finish with a poly or shellac or use tung oil?

I personally don't like surface finishes like shellac, poly, or products like tru oil. To me, they feel much too plasticky. 100% tung oil will work fine. Be wary that some products sold as "tung oil" actually have a lot of other stuff in em. I personally like hardwax oil. Some brands include Osmo, Rubio, and Odie's oil.

Any reason some people use stabilized woods over just a normal dried wood?

Stabilized wood greatly reduces the amount of swelling and shrinking due to relative humidity that unstabilized woods experience. This has the biggest effect when you use different materials in the handle, each of which will shrink/swell at a different rate. What can often end up happening is that you end up with a noticeable lip at the transition between two materials. Another thing about using raw wood, if it's not fully acclimated to your particular environment before you shape it, it can end up warping. Drying is a very slow process. From green, a rule of thumb I've been told was 1 year per inch of thickness to air dry.

Stabilizing is also useful for certain types of wood such as very soft species, or burls.

Never used a belt sander before but do you do all sanding on this or do final sanding by hand and to what grit (if so wet or dry sanding)

Depends how flat your belt sander is. The one I've been using was not good enough to finish with. So I did rough shaping on it, then did final shaping and polishing by hand.

I'll finish anywhere between 120 grit and 1000 grit, depending on the type of wood and what I'm trying to get out of the finish. In highly figured woods such as curly koa you can bring out more of the chatoyancy with a higher grit finish. On the other hand, if you want extra grip in the finish, you can end on the lower end. I've done both. For most of the handles I make, I finish around 400-800 grit for a good balance. I'll also note that coarse grain woods, such as oak, don't really benefit from a high grit finish.

 

[Ruppertsreef]

I personally don't like surface finishes like shellac, poly, or products like tru oil. To me, they feel much too plasticky. 100% tung oil will work fine. Be wary that some products sold as "tung oil" actually have a lot of other stuff in em. I personally like hardwax oil. Some brands include Osmo, Rubio, and Odie's oil.

Stabilized wood greatly reduces the amount of swelling and shrinking due to relative humidity that unstabilized woods experience. This has the biggest effect when you use different materials in the handle, each of which will shrink/swell at a different rate. What can often end up happening is that you end up with a noticeable lip at the transition between two materials. Another thing about using raw wood, if it's not fully acclimated to your particular environment before you shape it, it can end up warping. Drying is a very slow process. From green, a rule of thumb I've been told was 1 year per inch of thickness to air dry.

Stabilizing is also useful for certain types of wood such as very soft species, or burls.

Depends how flat your belt sander is. The one I've been using was not good enough to finish with. So I did rough shaping on it, then did final shaping and polishing by hand.

I'll finish anywhere between 120 grit and 1000 grit, depending on the type of wood and what I'm trying to get out of the finish. In highly figured woods such as curly koa you can bring out more of the chatoyancy with a higher grit finish. On the other hand, if you want extra grip in the finish, you can end on the lower end. I've done both. For most of the handles I make, I finish around 400-800 grit for a good balance. I'll also note that coarse grain woods, such as oak, don't really benefit from a high grit finish.

Thank you very much. I did notice that on my test scrap of oak and black walnut playing around sanding up to 2000 the oak was very rough feeling still compaired to the walnut.

I have a local woodworker who builds kitchens and tables and such who will give me some wood scraps to use for my handle. Thinking black walnut and black limba combo

 

[gregfisk]

You should be aware that true tung oil takes a very long time to dry and some would argue it’s takes weeks to fully dry. I personally like the over the counter products that call themselves tung oil but don’t actually have tung oil in them. They have additives in them that allow them to dry in just a few hours which allows you to put on several coats in just a couple of days. You can get a deep finish fairly quickly and it’s very durable. Then what I do is put on a min wax finish by applying the wax by hand and then hitting it with a heat gun to melt it into the finish. While it’s still hot I wipe it off with a soft cloth. This protects the wood from water and also protects the metal spacers that I incorporate into my handle designs.

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Thank you. Do you a specific product you like for the tung oil like product you use

 

[gregfisk]

I’ve used the Min Wax brand, Watco and General Finishes and their all fairly similar. Just wipe them on with a soft cloth, let them dry and put on another coat. I usually do 4 to 6 coats a day with no sanding in between for two or three days. Then I sand the finish smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. I then carefully put 1 or 2 light coats on and let them completely dry overnight. Make sure you don’t have any air bubbles that will mess up your final finish. Then you can add the Min Wax finish.

 

[Ruppertsreef]

I took it to the belt sander today, and I have some thing that looks like a handle. It is comfortable. My facets are all out of whack. Nowhere near even but a good first trial run before I get the better more expensive wood.

 

[Ericfg]

That's a lot better than my first try!

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Here is my second attempt

 

[Ruppertsreef]

I then took the perfectly good handle. Tried to add an inlay to it. Which worked great and looked great and I was 90% happy with it. Until I sanded it too much and sanded though the inlay.

The end result was me sanding it all off. And now the handle is a bit too skinny for my liking. And because the red palm got so thin near the top it cracked. I finished it off with tru-oil and gun stock wax. Will post those photos when I get home.

Will try that kingwood/red palm combo again after I finish these two I have ready Purple and walnut & cocobolo and ash

 

[Ruppertsreef]

Here are the three I finished. First is Kingwood and red palm its a bit too skinny. Second is cocobolo and ash. Third is figured walnut and Purple Heart.

 

[Alpine.knifeworks]

Here are the three I finished. First is Kingwood and red palm its a bit too skinny. Second is cocobolo and ash. Third is figured walnut and Purple Heart.

Love the angled butt of the first one!