sharpening by moving the abrasive insted of the knife

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r0bz

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if you use a handheld abrasive as the stone he is using it like he does can he raise a burr like that ?
its not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge





if you use a handheld abrasive as the stone he is using it like he does can he raise a burr like that ?
its not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge



what exactly does it do when you use a handheld abrasive like that is it possible to sharpen this way?
how do you deburr if all you have is a handheld abrasive like that that is not big enough to move the knife on it but you are forced to use it on the knife
 
Just pretend the knife is the stone. And the stone is the knife. Burr forms the same. I found it easier to hold the knife though. It may be different for you. You should try it out.
 
Just pretend the knife is the stone. And the stone is the knife. Burr forms the same. I found it easier to hold the knife though. It may be different for you. You should try it out.
by holding the knife you mean that the stone is on the table and you move the knife ?
if so i also prefer that method but what i am asking here is when you hold the stone and move it on the knife instead of holding the knife and moving it on the stone
 
Just pretend the knife is the stone. And the stone is the knife. Burr forms the same. I found it easier to hold the knife though. It may be different for you. You should try it out.
when the knife is very big and you have a small stone i don't find it possible to hold the knife and move it on the stone
when i am trying to raise a burr when the stone isnt moving and i am holding the knife and moving it on the stone i am doing only edge trailing ..
and when moving the abrasive insted of the knife he is moving it not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge i have a hard time understanding how it works this way
also is it possible to deburr this way (when moving the abrasive insted of the knife not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge)?
 
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So your question is about the viability of sharpening with abrasive/stone moving parallel to the edge, rather than perpendicular (whether the edge is leading or following)?

Looking at the video, I think that he's still generally moving the sharpener in an edge trailing motion, though there are some swipes that seem close to following the edge... but regardless, following the edge would still remove material as long as the abrasive isn't clogged (moving perpendicular does allow you to use more surface area of the abrasive, and I can only assume that means less likelihood of clogging/more fresh cutting material). Forming a burr is a nice tell indicating when you've gotten down to the point that both the back and front sides of the edge are gettin' familiar with each other, but a burr isn't strictly necessary.
 
So your question is about the viability of sharpening with abrasive/stone moving parallel to the edge, rather than perpendicular (whether the edge is leading or following)?

Looking at the video, I think that he's still generally moving the sharpener in an edge trailing motion, though there are some swipes that seem close to following the edge... but regardless, following the edge would still remove material as long as the abrasive isn't clogged (moving perpendicular does allow you to use more surface area of the abrasive, and I can only assume that means less likelihood of clogging/more fresh cutting material). Forming a burr is a nice tell indicating when you've gotten down to the point that both the back and front sides of the edge are gettin' familiar with each other, but a burr isn't strictly necessary.
is it possible to deburr by moving the sharpener moving perpendicular ?
 
So your question is about the viability of sharpening with abrasive/stone moving parallel to the edge, rather than perpendicular (whether the edge is leading or following)?
yes that is exactly the question
 
I don't think there would be any harm in trying it out and letting us know about your experiences. Personally I only clamp my knife and hold the abrasive in my hand under two circumstances. First, if the object is too big and bulky to comfortably sharpen the conventional way (big cleavers, axes, lawnmower blades, scythe blades, etc). Second, if I am doing heavy metal removal. For instance if I am grinding a knife blank into a knife. Then I will generally use steel files instead of sharpening stones and clamp the knife in a vise.

Edge leading, edge trailing, along the edge. All of these methods work just fine to remove metal. 100% personal preference. Your preferences might change depending on the circumstances. In my experience the easiest way to prevent having to deal with big burrs is to finish with alternating edge leading strokes with light pressure. This is true whether you are holding the knife, the stone, or both.
 
by holding the knife you mean that the stone is on the table and you move the knife ?
if so i also prefer that method but what i am asking here is when you hold the stone and move it on the knife instead of holding the knife and moving it on the stone

when the knife is very big and you have a small stone i don't find it possible to hold the knife and move it on the stone
when i am trying to raise a burr when the stone isnt moving and i am holding the knife and moving it on the stone i am doing only edge trailing ..
and when moving the abrasive insted of the knife he is moving it not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge i have a hard time understanding how it works this way
also is it possible to deburr this way (when moving the abrasive insted of the knife not edge leading and not edge trailing its along the edge)?
 
Takeda does this with his tomo nagura. It works. There’s a YouTube video. Dude’s killer at it, me not so much. There’s a couple guys who use it for touch ups.



I did the same thing with a fingerstone yesterday. It also works. It’s eye opening because you feel your burr bits and mistakes. I got some flakes off some low finishers that would be cool to play with.
 
I don't think there would be any harm in trying it out and letting us know about your experiences. Personally I only clamp my knife and hold the abrasive in my hand under two circumstances. First, if the object is too big and bulky to comfortably sharpen the conventional way (big cleavers, axes, lawnmower blades, scythe blades, etc). Second, if I am doing heavy metal removal. For instance if I am grinding a knife blank into a knife. Then I will generally use steel files instead of sharpening stones and clamp the knife in a vise.

Edge leading, edge trailing, along the edge. All of these methods work just fine to remove metal. 100% personal preference. Your preferences might change depending on the circumstances. In my experience the easiest way to prevent having to deal with big burrs is to finish with alternating edge leading strokes with light pressure. This is true whether you are holding the knife, the stone, or both.
the problem is that i cant strop the knife edge leading because the DMT's i want to sharpen a tourne knife with are too small for that i can only move them parallel to the knife
and can not move the knife on them
also if i were to use sandpaper on a broomstick in order to sharpen it i still couldn't deburr by using edge leading because its sandpaper ...
how do you think i can deburr this tourne ?
 
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the problem is that i cant strop the knife edge leading because the DMT's i want to sharpen a tourne knife with are too small for that i can only move them parallel to the knife
and can not move the knife on them
also if i were to use sandpaper on a broomstick in order to sharpen it i still couldn't deburr by using edge leading because its sandpaper ...
how do you think i can deburr this tourne ?
If edge leading is inconvenient then the other methods will work. They are just not as foolproof. If you are very gentle as you sharpen and alternate sides and finish on fine sandpaper then there shouldn't be much of a burr to be concerned about. If your DMT rods are too small and a broomstick is too thick then maybe try something that is in between them in size diameter. Finishing with fine sandpaper will help a lot too. Just like with stones, the finer the abrasive, the less burr you will raise. Maybe if you showed us a video of you sharpening then we could give you more effective direction. But when you only post videos of other people doing stuff then it is difficult for us to tell exactly what you are doing right or wrong. It would probably also help if you tried some of these techniques first. Then see how they work for you. Then ask us questions about the parts that didn't work instead of asking us about things that hypothetically might not work that you haven't actually tried yet.
 
If edge leading is inconvenient then the other methods will work. They are just not as foolproof. If you are very gentle as you sharpen and alternate sides and finish on fine sandpaper then there shouldn't be much of a burr to be concerned about. If your DMT rods are too small and a broomstick is too thick then maybe try something that is in between them in size diameter. Finishing with fine sandpaper will help a lot too. Just like with stones, the finer the abrasive, the less burr you will raise. Maybe if you showed us a video of you sharpening then we could give you more effective direction. But when you only post videos of other people doing stuff then it is difficult for us to tell exactly what you are doing right or wrong. It would probably also help if you tried some of these techniques first. Then see how they work for you. Then ask us questions about the parts that didn't work instead of asking us about things that hypothetically might not work that you haven't actually tried yet.
i tried with the dmt's but i cant nail the angle compared to when i hold the knife and move it
 
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