The Washita Thread

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The 1st looks thuri, dimensions. Someone that actually has one can let you know better. Is it in the realm of 5 or 6x2.5?


Oddball stones in the great scheme of things. Kind of the ridiculous opposite ends of the spectrum. Extremely dense but very very soft slate and a fairly light but extremely hard chunk of something.

The dimensions of the wider slate is 5" X 2 7/8".

The smaller one is 5 1/4" X 1 5/8".

The monster stone is 7 7/8" X 1 3/4" and it is 1 1/4" thick.

With a specific density of 2.13 which is pretty middling. But feels very very hard and glassy to the fingernail.

The conchoidal fracture pattern on the chip in the corner definitely looks Ark. Which means that if it is Arkansas it would have to be Washita. That's what I'm leaning toward right now. There is still a ton of oil in it. So it might get more white as it sits which would also point toward Washita. I'm going to let it soak several more hours and then I'll do some more examination of it tonight or tomorrow. Where it looks like it is two different stones I think is just where the oil has impregnated it different. It came in a wood box that had shrunk over the years and was cracked in several places. So I liberated it. The line through the middle is right where the stone stuck out of the box. I believe it's still got a lot of oil swarf and dirt.


PXL_20220129_114319826.jpg

PXL_20220129_114325769.jpg

PXL_20220129_114329681.MP.jpg

PXL_20220129_114335659.jpg

PXL_20220129_114322545.jpg
 
Oddball stones in the great scheme of things. Kind of the ridiculous opposite ends of the spectrum. Extremely dense but very very soft slate and a fairly light but extremely hard chunk of something.

The dimensions of the wider slate is 5" X 2 7/8".

The smaller one is 5 1/4" X 1 5/8".

The monster stone is 7 7/8" X 1 3/4" and it is 1 1/4" thick.

With a specific density of 2.13 which is pretty middling. But feels very very hard and glassy to the fingernail.

The conchoidal fracture pattern on the chip in the corner definitely looks Ark. Which means that if it is Arkansas it would have to be Washita. That's what I'm leaning toward right now. There is still a ton of oil in it. So it might get more white as it sits which would also point toward Washita. I'm going to let it soak several more hours and then I'll do some more examination of it tonight or tomorrow. Where it looks like it is two different stones I think is just where the oil has impregnated it different. It came in a wood box that had shrunk over the years and was cracked in several places. So I liberated it. The line through the middle is right where the stone stuck out of the box. I believe it's still got a lot of oil swarf and dirt.


View attachment 163240
View attachment 163241
View attachment 163242
View attachment 163243
View attachment 163244

Yep - it's a Washita - 110% :). And I'd guess quite an old one (like 100 years+)

Did it come from a UK seller?
 
Nope. Alabama.

Ah! Just thought it might have because you said you thought it might be a UK stone, and I've found a few very similar looking old ones there.

This was in the UK:

IMG-4855 (1).JPG


And actually coincidentally I found a really nice, thick 8x2 here in Aus yesterday, which I was about to post pictures of:

IMG-4856.JPG


It will take a loooooong time to degrease if you want it going back to white!
 
Talk to your kids about not gluing stones boxes. Before it’s too late.
View attachment 163304

Oh dear! If it's any consolation - that kind of thing happens quite a lot, particularly it seems with hard / translucent arks. Presumably something to do with with how they fracture or break.

It's called an 'oyster'.
 
[Warning that this will probably end up being quite a long post and quite heavy on technical stuff. But I'll try to throw a few pictures in, and it will be fun anyway, because (inspired by @stringer 's stone above) we're going to have a deep dive into why Washitas look and work the way they do. As ever I'm more than happy to be corrected on any elements of chemistry, geology or anything else, by those that know better. i.e. anyone.]

I had a handful of interesting things come up yesterday, here are a couple that might be most relevant to this thread. Found in a fairly amazing old salvage warehouse that I could've spent days in:

IMG-4765.jpg


TBH I might have swerved the broken one, as it's a pretty gnarly break, but your man gave it to me for free when I bought the other and the razor. I'll probably make it into a couple of travel or in-hand stones, as I should get a 4x2 and a 3.5x2 out of it.

I could tell both of them were old Washitas, as there's a fairly distinctive feel and look once you've got your eye in. I can't tell other old dirty stones until I've cleaned them up, but Washitas I usually can.

Here's what they look like after a day or so soaking:

IMG-4806 (1).jpg


Why do they look so different?

I'm glad you asked...

A novaculite is made from tiny bits of silica fused together at a very, very small (micro/crypto crystalline) level. Chemically it's the same thing as a sandstone - both are effectively 100% silica. But a sandstone is large bits of silica (sand), compacted together by lithification, which is what causes the formation of sedimentary rocks. It's quite a strong compaction, but it's nothing like as strong as the more fundamental fusing of much smaller particles, that causes the formation of novaculite.

But novaculite isn't quite just one big bit of silica, because if it was it'd be a quartz crystal. In fact a novaculite is more similar to a piece of flint than it is to a piece of quartz, even though all are effectively 100% silica. Looking at the break in @captaincaed 's Translucent Arkansas above you can see how it fractures in ‘flinty’ way, and you can you understand why it has been used by people for a long time to make arrowheads &c.

Novaculites are hard, but they're also porous - this quite important in understanding how and why they work as whetstones. These characteristics vary between different types, and they do not necessarily correlate inversely.

A Translucent Arkansas is both very hard and has quite low porosity. The way that the silica has been fused together is both strong - making it hard, and compact - making it less porous. These are the reasons that a Translucent Ark is slow and fine, and also why it will burnish - because it's non-friable, and why it won't clog - because it has very low porosity. A Soft Arkansas is the other way round, by comaprison it is softer with higher porosity, which makes it coarser and faster, and means it will burnish less quickly because it can shed some particles, though is more likely to clog. The effective 'grit' levels of the two is based far more on the way the structure of the stone is, than on the size of the initial particles, which might be quite similar. It's why people grade Arkansas stones by Specific Gravity, because the porosity and density of the stone has a very large impact on its performance.

A Washita is a bit different because it's both quite hard and quite porous, which allows them to work at a variety of different grit levels. If you work a Washita with pressure you can take advantage of it's porosity and it will work coarsely, but if you use less pressure the fact that it is hard will make it quite fine. The downside here being that Washitas are more susceptible to both clogging and burnishing, it's why dirty old Washitas can feel as smooth as glass. In practice though this may not be so apparent - they're never as hard as hard arks, so if you work them with heavy pressure then new material can be exposed and they won't burnish so quickly.

[The two paragraphs above are, by their nature, generalisations. Any piece of stone is going to be different from any other and all exist on a spectrum. I'm also straying slightly into stuff I don't know about because I've never used a Soft Arkansas, I'm summarizing from what I've read.]

So with the above in mind... why do the two Washitas look so different? Well the blindingly obvious answer, which I realise begs the question*, is because Washitas do vary quite a lot. The SG of an old Norton Hard Arkansas might be in the range of about 2.60 to 2.65, whereas an old Norton Washita could be anything from 2.0 to 2.5, depending largely on it's porosity. Porosity is what makes Washitas cut fast, examples with very high Specific Gravities will be generally be slower cutting and finer than those with low ones.

Although it seems counterintuitive, in the picture above we might assume that the darker stone with more oil in it is actually less porous. Here are two other Washitas which I've soaked extensively for many days:

IMG-4860.jpg


One of them is a known and labelled Lily White, but it isn't the one you might expect:

IMG-4861.jpg


This is because they've been soaking in heavy duty degreaser, and oil will come out of a more porous stone more quickly. In the second example the Lily White is one of the highest SG Washitas I have, at 2.45, and the other is the lowest at 2.08. Here's a neat example of a stone that has in areas that are harder and less porous - the dark section in the middle where the oil still is, as well as softer and more porous at the ends:

IMG-4863.jpg


As you might expect the harder sections are also more translucent:




But I've now used both of the initial stones, and they're actually not particularly different. The lighter coloured one is slightly faster and coarser, but they actually both sit around the middle ground for Washitas. So there's something else at play... the age of the stone comes into it too. When I say that Washitas are porous, that's very much a relative thing - they’re not porous in the way a soaking synthetic stone is porous. It still takes many, many years for oil to penetrate down into the stone. If you have a washita with a fresh break or crack in it you'll see the the oil and swarf discolouration only goes a few mms into the stone, the middle is still pure white. I did have a better image of this but I can't find it. Though you can see what I mean here on the chips and breaks:

9DBFC9A7-7B7F-4D13-83CA-FA8229A9A001.jpeg


Older stones then will have deeper oil penetration, which will take longer to come out. So of the initial two stones the darker one could be older, or less porous, or both.

And of course there's one last thing that comes into the appearance of Washitas, which can sometimes make them quite difficult to ID even for people who know the stones. You can see it in Stringer's example above, as well as in my 'two-tone' example, and that's the possibility of stones that are heterogenous, or have variability within the same stone.

This is the basis of the Pike-Norton grading system; Lily White Washitas were not finer or coarser, they were the most homogenous. Look at the old grey-green Pike LW in my pike above and notice how consistent the surface is. Now here's a No.1 Washita, the grade below Lily White, looking kinda speckly:

IMG-4864.jpg


What's interesting here is that these inconsistencies in the stone are not really noticeable initially, when I first degreased that stone it went a very bright, pure white. It is only now after using again with oil that we can see that the stone is not entirely consistent in the way that it absorbs it. Which means that very old stones with lots of oil left in them can appear to be more highly patterned than they would have looked when new. Here's a closeup picture of the darker stone in the initial pictures, after another 12 hours in the degreaser, it's looking, frankly, pretty similar to Stringer's.

IMG-4865.JPG


These aspects of how the composition of old Washitas play into both their usage, and their looks, means that with a bit of experience you can actually ID old Washitas relatively easily, because they're fairly singular stones, even when they look atypical.

---

I hope anyone who's struggled through all of that might have cause to find in useful in the future; when they come across a nice old Washita, can recognise it for what it is, and snag a bargain on one of the best whetstones ever quarried anywhere.

I've moved a few of mine on in the last few months, but I'll leave you with a family pic of all the ones I have atm, which shows a lot of completely white and featureless stones, in all their glorious diversity...

IMG-4866.jpg


---


* I am using this phrase is the original sense - as a type of rhetorical fallacy where the premise of an argument assumes the initial proposition: Begging the question - Wikipedia . Who knew this was going to be philosophy lesson too eh!
 
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I was in dental school 64-68, US Army 68-70, and in both spots I sharpened instruments..
Looking through my old stuff, I found these three stones, and some accompanying paper.
Black hard Arkansas, army issue.
White hard Arkansas on the edge says "Arkansas oil stone co. Hot Springs, Arkansas
I think Washita, from Smith's in Hot Springs, and although can't see in the picture,
PXL_20220130_133748338.jpg
PXL_20220130_133748338.jpg

a triangle shape slip..I think I bought this around 67 when I was in Hot Springs to
visit the mines...
 
Those are some very cool pieces of history. You wonder about the tooling to get those grooves just perfect in that hard stone.
Wow very cool specialized peices. Geeze right? And without breaking the whole peice! Get to the final groove and snap it... Impressive. I wonder if it was sawn or slowly, slowly grinded down.
 
View attachment 163410

I've found this one but I'd like to know more about it. I think it's a Thuringian but is it a natural or a synthetic? Does anyone know about the Celebrate brand?
The back.

I'll add a few more pics when it turns up. I have a couple of other stones coming that are a mystery to me
 

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I've found this one but I'd like to know more about it. I think it's a Thuringian but is it a natural or a synthetic? Does anyone know about the Celebrate brand?
Interesting stone, I personally haven't heard of "Celebrate" but I've heard of "Celebrated" brand thuringian. But those didn't come with that brand mark. I don't know any thuringian company that did a engraved logo like that.
20220130_194821.jpg
All thuringian should be a natural stone. I don't believe they made a synthetic thuringian. Interested in what other people think, that have thuri's.
 
I was in dental school 64-68, US Army 68-70, and in both spots I sharpened instruments..
Looking through my old stuff, I found these three stones, and some accompanying paper.
Black hard Arkansas, army issue.
White hard Arkansas on the edge says "Arkansas oil stone co. Hot Springs, Arkansas
I think Washita, from Smith's in Hot Springs, and although can't see in the picture,View attachment 163352View attachment 163352
a triangle shape slip..I think I bought this around 67 when I was in Hot Springs to
visit the mines...
Nice stones. First time I have seen Norton literature that recommended water.
Looks like the black one might be a translucent?
 
[Warning that this will probably end up being quite a long post and quite heavy on technical stuff. But I'll try to throw a few pictures in, and it will be fun anyway, because (inspired by @stringer 's stone above) we're going to have a deep dive into why Washitas look and work the way they do. As ever I'm more than happy to be corrected on any elements of chemistry, geology or anything else, by those that know better. i.e. anyone.]

I had a handful of interesting things come up yesterday, here are a couple that might be most relevant to this thread. Found in a fairly amazing old salvage warehouse that I could've spent days in:

View attachment 163308

TBH I might have swerved the broken one, as it's a pretty gnarly break, but your man gave it to me for free when I bought the other and the razor. I'll probably make it into a couple of travel or in-hand stones, as I should get a 4x2 and a 3.5x2 out of it.

I could tell both of them were old Washitas, as there's a fairly distinctive feel and look once you've got your eye in. I can't tell other old dirty stones until I've cleaned them up, but Washitas I usually can.

Here's what they look like after a day or so soaking:

View attachment 163307

Why do they look so different?

I'm glad you asked...

A novaculite is made from tiny bits of silica fused together at a very, very small (micro/crypto crystalline) level. Chemically it's the same thing as a sandstone - both are effectively 100% silica. But a sandstone is large bits of silica (sand), compacted together by lithification, which is what causes the formation of sedimentary rocks. It's quite a strong compaction, but it's nothing like as strong as the more fundamental fusing of much smaller particles, that causes the formation of novaculite.

But novaculite isn't quite just one big bit of silica, because if it was it'd be a quartz crystal. In fact a novaculite is more similar to a piece of flint than it is to a piece of quartz, even though all are effectively 100% silica. Looking at the break in @captaincaed 's Translucent Arkansas above you can see how it fractures in ‘flinty’ way, and you can you understand why it has been used by people for a long time to make arrowheads &c.

Novaculites are hard, but they're also porous - this quite important in understanding how and why they work as whetstones. These characteristics vary between different types, and they do not necessarily correlate inversely.

A Translucent Arkansas is both very hard and has quite low porosity. The way that the silica has been fused together is both strong - making it hard, and compact - making it less porous. These are the reasons that a Translucent Ark is slow and fine, and also why it will burnish - because it's non-friable, and why it won't clog - because it has very low porosity. A Soft Arkansas is the other way round, by comaprison it is softer with higher porosity, which makes it coarser and faster, and means it will burnish less quickly because it can shed some particles, though is more likely to clog. The effective 'grit' levels of the two is based far more on the way the structure of the stone is, than on the size of the initial particles, which might be quite similar. It's why people grade Arkansas stones by Specific Gravity, because the porosity and density of the stone has a very large impact on its performance.

A Washita is a bit different because it's both quite hard and quite porous, which allows them to work at a variety of different grit levels. If you work a Washita with pressure you can take advantage of it's porosity and it will work coarsely, but if you use less pressure the fact that it is hard will make it quite fine. The downside here being that Washitas are more susceptible to both clogging and burnishing, it's why dirty old Washitas can feel as smooth as glass. In practice though this may not be so apparent - they're never as hard as hard arks, so if you work them with heavy pressure then new material can be exposed and they won't burnish so quickly.

[The two paragraphs above are, by their nature, generalisations. Any piece of stone is going to be different from any other and all exist on a spectrum. I'm also straying slightly into stuff I don't know about because I've never used a Soft Arkansas, I'm summarizing from what I've read.]

So with the above in mind... why do the two Washitas look so different? Well the blindingly obvious answer, which I realise begs the question*, is because Washitas do vary quite a lot. The SG of an old Norton Hard Arkansas might be in the range of about 2.60 to 2.65, whereas an old Norton Washita could be anything from 2.0 to 2.5, depending largely on it's porosity. Porosity is what makes Washitas cut fast, examples with very high Specific Gravities will be generally be slower cutting and finer than those with low ones.

Although it seems counterintuitive, in the picture above we might assume that the darker stone with more oil in it is actually less porous. Here are two other Washitas which I've soaked extensively for many days:

View attachment 163310

One of them is a known and labelled Lily White, but it isn't the one you might expect:

View attachment 163309

This is because they've been soaking in heavy duty degreaser, and oil will come out of a more porous stone more quickly. In the second example the Lily White is one of the highest SG Washitas I have, at 2.45, and the other is the lowest at 2.08. Here's a neat example of a stone that has in areas that are harder and less porous - the dark section in the middle where the oil still is, as well as softer and more porous at the ends:

View attachment 163314

As you might expect the harder sections are also more translucent:




But I've now used both of the initial stones, and they're actually not particularly different. The lighter coloured one is slightly faster and coarser, but they actually both sit around the middle ground for Washitas. So there's something else at play... the age of the stone comes into it too. When I say that Washitas are porous, that's very much a relative thing - they’re not porous in the way a soaking synthetic stone is porous. It still takes many, many years for oil to penetrate down into the stone. If you have a washita with a fresh break or crack in it you'll see the the oil and swarf discolouration only goes a few mms into the stone, the middle is still pure white. I did have a better image of this but I can't find it. Though you can see what I mean here on the chips and breaks:

View attachment 163311

Older stones then will have deeper oil penetration, which will take longer to come out. So of the initial two stones the darker one could be older, or less porous, or both.

And of course there's one last thing that comes into the appearance of Washitas, which can sometimes make them quite difficult to ID even for people who know the stones. You can see it in Stringer's example above, as well as in my 'two-tone' example, and that's the possibility of stones that are heterogenous, or have variability within the same stone.

This is the basis of the Pike-Norton grading system; Lily White Washitas were not finer or coarser, they were the most homogenous. Look at the old grey-green Pike LW in my pike above and notice how consistent the surface is. Now here's a No.1 Washita, the grade below Lily White, looking kinda speckly:

View attachment 163316

What's interesting here is that these inconsistencies in the stone are not really noticeable initially, when I first degreased that stone it went a very bright, pure white. It is only now after using again with oil that we can see that the stone is not entirely consistent in the way that it absorbs it. Which means that very old stones with lots of oil left in them can appear to be more highly patterned than they would have looked when new. Here's a closeup picture of the darker stone in the initial pictures, after another 12 hours in the degreaser, it's looking, frankly, pretty similar to Stringer's.

View attachment 163324

These aspects of how the composition of old Washitas play into both their usage, and their looks, means that with a bit of experience you can actually ID old Washitas relatively easily, because they're fairly singular stones, even when they look atypical.

---

I hope anyone who's struggled through all of that might have cause to find in useful in the future; when they come across a nice old Washita, can recognise it for what it is, and snag a bargain on one of the best whetstones ever quarried anywhere.

I've moved a few of mine on in the last few months, but I'll leave you with a family pic of all the ones I have atm, which shows a lot of completely white and featureless stones, in all their glorious diversity...

View attachment 163329

---


* I am using this phrase is the original sense - as a type of rhetorical fallacy where the premise of an argument assumes the initial proposition: Begging the question - Wikipedia . Who knew this was going to be philosophy lesson too eh!

Nice write up.

Do you ever tap them? I think the notes fall right in line with the density (SPG).
 
Interesting stone, I personally haven't heard of "Celebrate" but I've heard of "Celebrated" brand thuringian. But those didn't come with that brand mark. I don't know any thuringian company that did a engraved logo like that.
View attachment 163434
All thuringian should be a natural stone. I don't believe they made a synthetic thuringian. Interested in what other people think, that have thuri's.
A thuringian just not an Escher brand.
 
Nice write up.

Do you ever tap them? I think the notes fall right in line with the density (SPG).

Ta :). Do feel free to correct any of it that might be inaccurate / too much of an assumption or generalization. You know far more about these things than I do!

I do tap things occasionally, though probably haven't 'got my ear in' well enough yet to discern things particularly accurately.

I have read somewhere that yes - First Nation Americans did HT novaculite. I'll try to dig it out, but probably some old paper from when I was reading a lot about the history of novaculite use when researching Turkish Oilstones. Pieces and shards of novaculite have been found in the remains of fires with arrowheads and stuff found nearby.

[EDIT - The intro to this paper mentions it for instance: Thermally Altered Novaculite and Stone Tool Manufacturing Techniques on JSTOR ]
 
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A thuringian just not an Escher brand.

Aye.

Though just to avoid confusion... @bsfsu - your stone above is synthetic, rather than being a Thuringian I'm afraid. It looks like a relatively coarse SiC stone, probably for sharpening tools or axes.

For which that kind of thing is very good btw (or for repair work on knives). Not much comes close to coarse SiC for quick, heavy duty work.
 
I was in dental school 64-68, US Army 68-70, and in both spots I sharpened instruments..
Looking through my old stuff, I found these three stones, and some accompanying paper.
Black hard Arkansas, army issue.
White hard Arkansas on the edge says "Arkansas oil stone co. Hot Springs, Arkansas
I think Washita, from Smith's in Hot Springs, and although can't see in the picture,View attachment 163352View attachment 163352
a triangle shape slip..I think I bought this around 67 when I was in Hot Springs to
visit the mines...

These are very cool... I remember seeing one the same / similar on ebay a while back and wondering whatever kind of instrument is that for!
 
My brother is a flint napper, and one of the techniques they recommend to get recalcitrant flint to perform
better when knapping is to heat treat... Normally they would bury under about an inch of dirt, and then build
a camp fire on top, keep the fire going for several hours, and just let cool to room temperature. Ok maybe
not room temperature unless you are used to camp fires inside. In any events , many kinds of flint and chert
are physically modified by this process, and supposedly, who knows the ancient mind, this was a technique
used by the ancients to help the knapping. My brother and I have tried this at his ranch, and it does make
the flaking more predictable.
 
My brother is a flint napper, and one of the techniques they recommend to get recalcitrant flint to perform
better when knapping is to heat treat... Normally they would bury under about an inch of dirt, and then build
a camp fire on top, keep the fire going for several hours, and just let cool to room temperature. Ok maybe
not room temperature unless you are used to camp fires inside. In any events , many kinds of flint and chert
are physically modified by this process, and supposedly, who knows the ancient mind, this was a technique
used by the ancients to help the knapping. My brother and I have tried this at his ranch, and it does make
the flaking more predictable.
Very cool, I was gonna try flint knapping. I had an arrangement to swap some Georgetown flint for some Quartz chunks but the lady backed out. And then I had a guy willing to ship me some rootbeer flint, he said he shipped but i never got the package... So haven't gotten around to it yet. I did read up on it though, I read stories of people heating their flint/chert too fast or hot and the whole rock explodes! And or cool too fast but doesn't explode more fractures. But if they survive, like you said makes knapping more predictable.
 
I was in dental school 64-68, US Army 68-70, and in both spots I sharpened instruments..
Looking through my old stuff, I found these three stones, and some accompanying paper.
Black hard Arkansas, army issue.
White hard Arkansas on the edge says "Arkansas oil stone co. Hot Springs, Arkansas
I think Washita, from Smith's in Hot Springs, and although can't see in the picture,View attachment 163352View attachment 163352
a triangle shape slip..I think I bought this around 67 when I was in Hot Springs to
visit the mines...
I have an old Washita from Arkansas Oil Stone Co. I don't know much about the company history unfortunately.
It must be some what vintage though because because they recommended coal oil or kerosene as a lubricant.

https://flic.kr/p/



It's a slow and fine Washita.

Whish I knew how many company's were mining and producing Washita's through the years.
Cotedupy do you have any idea, anyone?
 
I have an old Washita from Arkansas Oil Stone Co. I don't know much about the company history unfortunately.
It must be some what vintage though because because they recommended coal oil or kerosene as a lubricant.

48678512057_b7a0033e23.jpg
https://flic.kr/p/



It's a slow and fine Washita.

Whish I knew how many company's were mining and producing Washita's through the years.
Cotedupy do you have any idea, anyone?

There were a ton over the years.

https://quarriesandbeyond.org/states/ar/ar-photos_1.html
 
And the old survey lists more mines, it's a tangled mess for me. More mines than manufactures for sure and at times hard to say if they where mining arks or washita's.

For manufactures I have Norton, Hot Springs oilstone Co and the more modern Smith's, and I am leaving one out because I can't remember their name. I'm looking for it.....
 
And the old survey lists more mines, it's a tangled mess for me. More mines than manufactures for sure and at times hard to say if they where mining arks or washita's.

For manufactures I have Norton, Hot Springs oilstone Co and the more modern Smith's, and I am leaving one out because I can't remember their name. I'm looking for it.....

There's a few names in this article. These three are usually listed as the early owners of quarries. Hiram Whittington, J. J. Sutton, and the Barnes Brothers. But I'm not sure if they produced finished whetstones.

http://archeology.uark.edu/novaculite/index.html?pageName=Novaculite as Whetstone Rock


Just to add to the modern producers:
Hall's which became RH Preyda
And Dan's of course.
 
There's a few names in this article. These three are usually listed as the early owners of quarries. Hiram Whittington, J. J. Sutton, and the Barnes Brothers. But I'm not sure if they produced finished whetstones.

http://archeology.uark.edu/novaculite/index.html?pageName=Novaculite as Whetstone Rock


Just to add to the modern producers:
Hall's which became RH Preyda
And Dan's of course.
I think Dan's originally bought out Indian Mountain.

Other producers of Arks off the top of my head past and present.
Washita Mountain, Indian Mountain, Arkansas Oilstones, Arkansas Oilstone Co, Smith's, Natural Whetstone Co, Pike Norton.

Probably forgetting some. A much smaller list when it comes to the vintage Washita's though.
 
Very cool, I was gonna try flint knapping. I had an arrangement to swap some Georgetown flint for some Quartz chunks but the lady backed out. And then I had a guy willing to ship me some rootbeer flint, he said he shipped but i never got the package... So haven't gotten around to it yet. I did read up on it though, I read stories of people heating their flint/chert too fast or hot and the whole rock explodes! And or cool too fast but doesn't explode more fractures. But if they survive, like you said makes knapping more predictable.
So you are in Texas?? Otherwise the Georgetown flint is not well known... My brother knows a guy who has literally tons of Georgetown, and I have helped him collect several times.. Lots of fun.
 
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