Thinning "upside down"?

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Anne Howe

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Is there any reason not to lay the blade down immobile, and hold the stone (nagura, actually) in my hand to even up the high spots locally, or even thin it along the whole length? Of course I'd lay the blade flat with the handle hanging over the platform that the knife is on, and hold it securely. It seems like it would be so much easier, especially for the coarse part of the operation.
 
No reason at all IMO. I do this, and other random things when thinning. I feel like I can isolate and get a better feel for high spots that way. I don't think there's a true right or wrong way, there's only results. Do what you feel comfortable with.

I don't know, maybe purist dislike that but 🤷‍♂️
 
It makes more sense on a Takeda, because you're hitting a convex scandi bevel or you're trying to hit the shoulder when thinning. The technique works better or worse depending on the knife and what you're trying to do. If you were doing something where the finish was crucial, it's nice to see what's happening as you go along.
 
I've done it before with small pieces of bench stone I've broken up with a chisel. It easier to get an even surface finish. It's much easier for me to cut myself. It can be slower than normal thinning. I don't have to worry as much about the stone dishing. I can either hold the knife with one hand and the stone with the other, or lay the knife down. I've used 400 grit, aoto and a finishing stone.
 
I've never tried. I always figured it was easier to use a stone holder, rather than trying to figure out how to keep the knife still. But I'm sure it's possible. Takeda uses this method for regular knife sharpening.


very interesting video, thanks
 
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I've done it before with small pieces of bench stone I've broken up with a chisel. It easier to get an even surface finish. It's much easier for me to cut myself. It can be slower than normal thinning. I don't have to worry as much about the stone dishing. I can either hold the knife with one hand and the stone with the other, or lay the knife down. I've used 400 grit, aoto and a finishing stone.
That's a good list of advantages and disadvantages - thanks. It's about what I expect to find when I receive my 300 & 800 naguras.
 
It makes more sense on a Takeda, because you're hitting a convex scandi bevel or you're trying to hit the shoulder when thinning. The technique works better or worse depending on the knife and what you're trying to do. If you were doing something where the finish was crucial, it's nice to see what's happening as you go along.
I've never handled a Takeda, so I'm not sure just what you mean; also I'm not to the level of knowing what different bevels are by their nicknames, but I appreciate it. Someday...
 
In the end whether you rub knife on rock, or rub rock on knife should largely have the same results on the actual end product. So basically do whatever works best for you ergonomically. But my main concern would be safety. When you're holdig the knife it's much easier to make sure you don't cut yourself than when you're holding the rock.
Another option to consider is to just rotate the stone. Most tutorials have them in a straight 12 to 6 o clock position, but there's no reason you can't rotate them somewhat if that makes thinning easier for you. Similarly you can change your own position relative to the stone.
 
So, a 320 cerax made into a fingerstone about 1 cm cubed. Took an hour or two. This is what a hand held fingerstone can do, but also, really nasty wrinkled fingers. I think that's a con I wasn't as aware of. But yeah, it can remove coarse marks on a concave surface.

Before
PXL_20230828_035647302.jpg


After
PXL_20230902_024537052.jpg
 
So, a 320 cerax made into a fingerstone about 1 cm cubed. Took an hour or two. This is what a hand held fingerstone can do, but also, really nasty wrinkled fingers. I think that's a con I wasn't as aware of. But yeah, it can remove coarse marks on a concave surface.

Before
View attachment 266436

After
View attachment 266437

Grab some finger condoms and double up!
 
When knifemakers do a hand finish it will typically be done with abrasive wrapped round a block - nick wheeler does some great WIPs and also a design of a sand paper holder, or using edm/mold stones which are a bit like smaller thinner bench stones.

Nearly every knife maker will also have a story of a nasty cut from doing this so watch where your fingers are relative to the edge. Also you need to mask off the side of the knife resting on whatever platform your working on as grit will get under the knife and will make a scratchy mess, often on the side you’ve finished.
A full size bench stone, to me anyway, is a bit unwieldy
 
Thanks all. A few things:
1) the naguras worked well as hand held thinning stones
2) It took awhile to understand why many people thought this dangerous. But my setup is a beveled brick wrapped in a damp cloth, with the knife edge NOT hanging off. My left hand is clamping the blade to the wrapped brick, and my right hand (doing the work) is sort of protected.
thin.jpeg

3) I apologize for being slow to acknowledge your responses. I intentionally limit my networking time, please bear with. I appreciate being here.
4) This last one is an observation. When I first joined, I asked if there was a beginners corner. The reason I asked that is that the "Sharpening Station" forum is VERY heavy populated with discussions about polishing. As far as I can see in my months as a raw novice, sharpening and thinning belong together (necessary maintenance), and the estimable practice of polishing is something else again (the pleasure of restoring a blade to beauty). A question about thinning signals to many people a discussion about polishing. But I'm still trying to find a good way to hog off a little metal, because the carrots are splitting. Thanks again.
 
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