What progression for a new knife?

[KOA]

Forgive the newbie question but what is your usual sharpening progression for a new knife given that most makers leave it up to you to set the Initial edge? By no means are any of my pieces dull from the start but what should the initial grit be if it’s sharp but not smile worthy sharp Naturally assuming the grind is not at fault…

 

[tostadas]

I try it out first. If not sharp enough, I just use a finishing stone. If it still needs some bevel work, then either 1k or 500, depending on how much work is needed. Then follow up with a finishing stone.

 

[Benuser]

All will depend on the maker. If the knife has got a stone sharpening I will certainly try it. But that's rare with the knives I have to deal with. Remember Japanese knives used to come without an edge, as the final user was supposed to put his own on it, or have it done by the retailer. Nowadays they do come with an edge, made by a few strokes and a lot of buffing. Factory edges are rarely worth any special veneration. Some are made to make the job easier: sharpened at very low angles, far beyond what the steel can hold when in contact with the board. This is by far preferable, as with only a few strokes you may adapt it. Other ones are very conservative, with perhaps even microbevels on both sides: all to avoid returns by careless users. No fun to have these microbevels removed. Anyway, in by far the most cases the edges are weak by excessive buffing with the resulting fatigued steel and best be entirely removed. That's why I use a good coarse stone to start with, SG320 or 220.

 

[Jason183]

Depends on what kind of tasks you’re using it for, also what kind of cutting board you’re using.

For abusive tasks you want something thick behind the edge.
For delicate tasks liked cutting paper thin scallions you need a nail flexing edge, as thin as possible BTE.

My Yoshikane is a good example for cutting paper thin scallions, I wouldn’t messed with it’s factory edge, I want to preserved it as long as possible, most I do is few passes on finishing stone for the micro bevel then it’s good to go.

I only using it for single task tho, but If I’m going to use it for abusive tasks I would have to remove 2-3mm out of the factory edge in order to use it comfortably. Some ppl do use one knife for everything but using the right tool for the right job is recommended.

 

[MowgFace]

I use most of my factory edges for at least some amount of time, but most if not all of my knives get a medium grit stone, then some sort of finishing stone.

In my case, at home the Gesshin 2K is my favorite medium grit stone, followed by some sort of finishing stone. These days I've got a chubby for Aizu, but I have many 3K-6k stones to play with so the particular stone is usually on a case by case basis.