Yoshikane SKD folded edge

[Delat]

The gap?

Perhaps I should have specified that the motion needs applying to the whole profile, always.

I might be misunderstanding, but I think you may be jumping ahead. I used low-angle edge trailing strokes on the side of the edge with the folded part hanging down as you recommended. Since it was low-angle, the protruding part was abraded off first before any other part of the edge got any meaningful contact with the stone.

Now I’ve reached the point where the folded part is gone, the whole edge is touching the stone, and I have a gap about 1” wide and .25mm deep where that section had folded over. So now I’ll bring the entire edge level while applying a fresh bevel around 15 dps. Am I missing something important and making things harder for myself?

 

[ModRQC]

Can you show a profile picture? Like resting on the gap spot, higher lighting beyond the blade, lower lighting between it and the obturator? If gap there is you can't make anything harder for you right now than a meaningful gap amiss an otherwise correct profile.

 

[Delat]

Can you show a profile picture? Like resting on the gap spot, higher lighting beyond the blade, lower lighting between it and the obturator? If gap there is you can't make anything harder for you right now than a meaningful gap amiss an otherwise correct profile.

Doesn’t look too bad once I put it on the board, but you can see what I mean about a gap. Looks like I can either extend the flat spot a bit or take a fraction off the entire edge.

 

[Jovidah]

Was it advertised as a folding knife?

 

[ModRQC]

Doesn’t look too bad once I put it on the board, but you can see what I mean about a gap. Looks like I can either extend the flat spot a bit or take a fraction off the entire edge.

View attachment 130062

View attachment 130063

We're sure there's no remnant of a folded edge there?

Extending the flat spot seems simple, does it. However it's hard to isolate just one part of the edge to touch the stone, you end up grinding a whole section anyhow, and it can go many ways - possibly making the problem bigger.

Seems counterproductive to work on the full length, but necessary. Still it's very minor here. I would probably go at sharpening it at this stage, just keeping with the heel a bit longer. Use SG500. Deburr and check profile. It will probably have reduced the gap, and you'll know you can just keep on sharpening through it always with some extra focus until it's gone. Possibly just as you go long term, not immediately after, unless it affects your cuts.

 

[captaincaed]

I might try to take a little off each side of that high spot, working judiciously and checking your work every 10-20 strokes as you go on your SG500. If that doesn't fare well, a shop might be able to help straighten that out so you're back to full board contact.

 

[captaincaed]

I had to fix a profile once. Not sure this is the recommended way to do it, but it's possible to do at home if you feel motivated.

 

[Delat]

I had to fix a profile once. Not sure this is the recommended way to do it, but it's possible to do at home if you feel motivated.

I like the way you marked it, will definitely mark mine up as well.

 

[captaincaed]

I like the way you marked it, will definitely mark mine up as well.

Cleans up easy with nail polish remover

 

[inferno]

did you fix the yoshi yet Delat?

 

[Delat]

Success! It’s not quite 100% perfect but I didn’t want to be like the Magician’s Apprentice and continue past the point where I had a usable edge. I’ve got a full new bevel from heel to tip and the remaining gap is thinner than a sheet of magazine paper, but more importantly it’s now sharp again in that section. I’ll just let it even up naturally over time during future sharpening with maybe a touch of extra pressure closer to the heel during the next full progression.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Once I got over the shock of the folded edge it was a fun and engaging project and I definitely improved my skill set. Making some bolognese tonight so I get to see how my sharpening compares to the OOTB edge, which was impressively sharp by my standards (which aren’t very high, tbh).

 

[ModRQC]

Success! It’s not quite 100% perfect but I didn’t want to be like the Magician’s Apprentice and continue past the point where I had a usable edge. I’ve got a full new bevel from heel to tip and the remaining gap is thinner than a sheet of magazine paper, but more importantly it’s now sharp again in that section. I’ll just let it even up naturally over time during future sharpening with maybe a touch of extra pressure closer to the heel during the next full progression.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Once I got over the shock of the folded edge it was a fun and engaging project and I definitely improved my skill set. Making some bolognese tonight so I get to see how my sharpening compares to the OOTB edge, which was impressively sharp by my standards (which aren’t very high, tbh).
View attachment 130169

So just a sharpening did it finally, or you did some work first on the problematic spot?

 

[Delat]

So just a sharpening did it finally, or you did some work first on the problematic spot?

I used a regular sharpening approach - blade at a 45 degree angle to the stone, 15 dps , but applied moderate pressure with two fingers specifically at the high points I wanted to address. Flipped back and forth a few times that way and as the burrs started getting longer then I started moving the pressure around and including the belly and tip as if it was a normal sharpening. I called it done once I was getting a nice continuous burr along the entire length and it looked close enough to call it good.

I normally go to an SG1000 then SG4000 with my PM steels, but based on comments from the sharpening forum I decided to jump directly to my SG4000 for a few light finishing strokes to see how that works with this steel.

 

[ModRQC]

I thought just a sharpening was indeed the best approach at that point, counting some additional focus on the high spots. Good work!

SKD is no PM - almost carbon tool steel. Perhaps you were cross-talking different knives, just saying.

Using the 1K grit in between can help with very hard/high carbide steel to deburr/refine but SG500 is well behaved a starting point enough that you don’t need to in any case I would think.

 

[Hz_zzzzzz]

For my carbon knives, if it needs thinning I thin it with SG500 or chosera 800. If it’s decently thin behind the edge, I start with Chosera 3000 (many times finish there as well). Lower grit might just remove too much steel.

 

[Delat]

I thought just a sharpening was indeed the best approach at that point, counting some additional focus on the high spots. Good work!

SKD is no PM - almost carbon tool steel. Perhaps you were cross-talking different knives, just saying.

Using the 1K grit in between can help with very hard/high carbide steel to deburr/refine but SG500 is well behaved a starting point enough that you don’t need to in any case I would think.

Oh I meant that for PM steels I’ll probably continue using the 1k as an intermediate step, but since the SKD is easier to work I skipped it. I’m thinking about trying an Aogami blade for my next purchase based on how much I like the SKD sharpening experience. Maybe a cheap Shinko Seilan so I don’t cry if (when) I screw something up again.

 

[ModRQC]

You won't. You'll feel 1000x more confident in your assessment and work after just that one mishap. Will grow exponentially as you encounter other problems, start some real thinning work, etc. etc. I remember my first broken tip, how anguished I was. Nowadays I thin tips so much that it's almost a way to go that the very very point should break away, and then I define a new, more solid one.