210mm Pro chef Knife Recommendation

[J3lackjack]

LOCATION
What country are you in?
Singapore, would be willing to pay for shipping from other country


KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in (e.g., chef’s knife, slicer, boning knife, utility knife, bread knife, paring knife, cleaver)?
210mm Gyuto. Would prefer something like a workhorse than a laser.

Are you right or left handed?
Right

Are you interested in a Western handle (e.g., classic Wusthof handle) or Japanese handle?
Japanese handle

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)?
210mm only


Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no)
Semi would be nice,

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife?
200-250 USD

KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment?
Professional environment

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for (e.g., slicing vegetables, chopping vegetables, mincing vegetables, slicing meats, cutting down poultry, breaking poultry bones, filleting fish, trimming meats, etc.)? (Please identify as many tasks as you would like.)
Slicing veg,protein,trimming,mincing veg Large volume work

What knife, if any, are you replacing?

Got a165mm Damascus Japanese knife from Japan as a gift. No idea what steel type it was but it’s stainless with Damascus on it. Edge retention on it is horrible. Had to hone it after 4-5 tomatoes

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use?
Pinch grip

What cutting motions do you primarily use?
Push-cut, rock, slice, draw, chop and walk. I don’t tap chop


What improvements do you want from your current knife? If you are not replacing a knife, please identify as many characteristics identified below in parentheses that you would like this knife to have.)

Better aesthetics, something with kurouchi or nashiji
Longer Edge Retention
Workhorse, something that can last me a whole shift without having to constantly hone mid shift


KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board?
Synthetic, since it’s in a professional kitchen

Do you sharpen your own knives? (Yes or no.)
Yes. Cerax 1k and naniwa 3k(wondering can I soak my 3k before sharpening? I’ve always use the splash method only for this stone)


Looking at Wakui, Shiro Kamo AS.
Also looked at gesshin, but disliked the steel type since the edge retention isn’t the best.

 

[dragjp]

How about a takamura R2? maybe the vg-10 variation too.

 

[J3lackjack]

How about a takamura R2? maybe the vg-10 variation too.

I’ve heard that the takamura is on the thinner side? Is that true?

 

[dragjp]

Right, it has one of the best grind IMO but on the thinner side. R2 is a power steel which has good edge retention though, but miles may vary in pro kitchen. Would love to hear fellow chefs' ideas on that.

 

[Qapla']

Razorsharp Pte SG seems to have a promotion on Kikumori SRS-15's for SGD 350 ~= 260 USD if you can stretch your budget. That should provide you with edge retention.

 

[Nemo]

I wouldn't advise honing Japanese knives. It risks chipping the hard, brittle steel, ruining the edge. I've never used a knife in a pro environment but I would hope that most decent knives would easily last a shift.

Takamuras are on the thinner side.

What do you mean by "workhorse"? It's often used to denote a thick, heavy knife with a convex food release grind. Other times, it's used to denote a tough knife that can do any task.

 

[Simply]

Yoshikane skd 210 sounds perfect for this. Check homebutcher with the Gofor30 code

 

[J3lackjack]

Yoshikane skd 210 sounds perfect for this. Check homebutcher with the Gofor30 code

I heard this is quite laser too? Is that true?

 

[Infrared]

Semi stainless knives usually don't come thick, especially at that price.

Kohetsu SLD is the only one that comes to mind.

For a little (lot?) more, Yoshikane, Heiji, and Masashi are also good options.

Wakui would work as well. Kamo is on the thinner side, so probably not what you're looking for.

edit: Kaeru stainless is another good option

 

[Simply]

I heard this is quite laser too? Is that true?

Definitely thin behind the edge but i use all my Yoshi’s very regularly and no issues, they’re pretty fantastic. I wouldn’t cut bone anything crazy with them, but for most tasks they’re grab and go with very little maintenance.

 

[J3lackjack]

Definitely thin behind the edge but i use all my Yoshi’s very regularly and no issues, they’re pretty fantastic. I wouldn’t cut bone anything crazy with them, but for most tasks they’re grab and go with very little maintenance.

Holy that voucher code is a really good deal, now I’m tempted hahaha. Do u know when does it expire?

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

I heard this is quite laser too? Is that true?

At the edge yes. They cut extremely well but I had one and am not sure I'd want to make that my pro tool of choice. They have a nail-flexing edge. They also have a distinct flat spot at the back of the knife. Just something for consideration.

 

[J3lackjack]

At the edge yes. They cut extremely well but I had one and am not sure I'd want to make that my pro tool of choice. They have a nail-flexing edge. They also have a distinct flat spot at the back of the knife. Just something for consideration.

Sorry kinda new to the term, what’s a nail flexing edge? Also flat spot meaning, no rounding at the heel?
I’ve seen comments about potato/other types of stuff sticking when cutting what do u think?

 

[J3lackjack]

I wouldn't advise honing Japanese knives. It risks chipping the hard, brittle steel, ruining the edge. I've never used a knife in a pro environment but I would hope that most decent knives would easily last a shift.

Takamuras are on the thinner side.

What do you mean by "workhorse"? It's often used to denote a thick, heavy knife with a convex food release grind. Other times, it's used to denote a tough knife that can do any task.

In worse case scenario/emergency I’ll only be just a few light strokes. Yes that’s what I’m looking for regarding the workhorse type of knife

 

[Nemo]

If you want a thicker knife it's hard to think of a stainless or semistainless example in your price range.

If you are interested in an all rounder middleweight knife, do consider Kaeru SLD.

Shiro Kamo's R2 range is excellent value and would fit in the middleweight category. Be aware that it's quite a tall blade.

If you can find a Gengetsu SS, it's a great middleweight but possibly over budget.

I haven't used it but by reputation, I suspect Heiji SS would work well (but maybe break the budget).

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

Sorry kinda new to the term, what’s a nail flexing edge? Also flat spot meaning, no rounding at the heel?
I’ve seen comments about potato/other types of stuff sticking when cutting what do u think?

It's been awhile so I don't specifically remember food release.

By nail flexing, I mean if you press the very edge against your thumb nail, the edge will flex (bend). It's a very thin edge.

As for the flat spot it means the back portion of the profile is quite flat and you feel as you finish the cut.

 

[Simply]

Holy that voucher code is a really good deal, now I’m tempted hahaha. Do u know when does it expire?

Couldn’t tell ya, sometimes he’ll announce through Fb or Instagram. Better prices on these new than you’ll find anywhere else though.

If your definition of workhorse is something you can grab and cut 99% of things without worrying about rust/edge retention, this is it. If you need something thicker, heavier (220+ g), and butchery capable this ain’t it.

 

[Nemo]

Yes that’s what I’m looking for regarding the workhorse type of knife

I'm sorry, I gave you two alternative definitions of "Workhorse" and I'm not sure which one you meant.

 

[J3lackjack]

Couldn’t tell ya, sometimes he’ll announce through Fb or Instagram. Better prices on these new than you’ll find anywhere else though.

If your definition of workhorse is something you can grab and cut 99% of things without worrying about rust/edge retention, this is it. If you need something thicker, heavier (220+ g), and butchery capable this ain’t it.

Nah I don’t do the butchery using this. More like my daily driver at work. Worried bout the release of food? How does yours do?

 

[Delat]

Personally I wouldn’t recommend Yoshikane for a rough and ready environment; I damaged mine cutting the root ends off unpeeled garlic. @stringer likes Kanehide for his work.

 

[Simply]

Nah I don’t do the butchery using this. More like my daily driver at work. Worried bout the release of food? How does yours do?

Middle ground, squash/thin carrots can be a little sticky but easily wiped off. After re-reading your post is there a reason you are sticking to 210 vs 240? 240 feels a lot more forgiving for volume work.

The w2 Wakui on cktg is a steal and a more robust grind, but carbon and handle is nothing to write home about

 

[Ochazuke]

Ashi Ginga. You won't get nashiji or whatever, but it checks most of your other boxes.

Edit: not a workhorse if you define it by dimensions, but it holds up well for most people in a pro kitchen.

 

[runninscared]

Personally I wouldn’t recommend Yoshikane for a rough and ready environment; I damaged mine cutting the root ends off unpeeled garlic. @stringer likes Kanehide for his work.

agreed on this. yoshikane is too thin BTE for any type of rough work imo, unless its had at least a few sharpenings.

a couple of other sanjo makers that would make great work knives though: wakui, munetoshi, and watanabe/toyama. although my wat out of the box was very hard B2 with a zero grind and i had a tiny amount of microchipping as a result. probably worth an initial sharpening at a bit higher angle(or microbeveling) to avoid this though.

 

[superworrier]

agreed on this. yoshikane is too thin BTE for any type of rough work imo, unless its had at least a few sharpenings.

a couple of other sanjo makers that would make great work knives though: wakui, munetoshi, and watanabe/toyama. although my wat out of the box was very hard B2 with a zero grind and i had a tiny amount of microchipping as a result. probably worth an initial sharpening at a bit higher angle(or microbeveling) to avoid this though.

idk.. I think the same applies for wakui and watoyama tbh. They're quite thin BTE OOTB (as you somewhat acknowledged).

 

[J3lackjack]

Personally I wouldn’t recommend Yoshikane for a rough and ready environment; I damaged mine cutting the root ends off unpeeled garlic. @stringer likes Kanehide for his work.

Wtf…. That’s really fragile

 

[J3lackjack]

Middle ground, squash/thin carrots can be a little sticky but easily wiped off. After re-reading your post is there a reason you are sticking to 210 vs 240? 240 feels a lot more forgiving for volume work.

The w2 Wakui on cktg is a steal and a more robust grind, but carbon and handle is nothing to write home about

It’ll be my first 210. And I want something shorter for the time being since I was used to using an 8inch western knife long ago. If needed will jump onto 240 in the future.

 

[J3lackjack]

I'm sorry, I gave you two alternative definitions of "Workhorse" and I'm not sure which one you meant.

“used to denote a thick, heavy knife with a convex food release grind” this is the one I’d prefer

 

[J3lackjack]

idk.. I think the same applies for wakui and watoyama tbh. They're quite thin BTE OOTB (as you somewhat acknowledged).

Hmmm this is a headache then, what does BTE stand for?

 

[Nemo]

Some Wakuis are workhorse knives. My Wakui Tsuchime (hammered) certainly is. Very different to the descriptions of the Hairline Wakui, which is a thin knife. But it is white paper steel (simple carbon) clad in SS.

I have heard that the Ku/ Nashiji Wakuis are also beefy (although I've never held one).

Some of the Tsuchime Yoshikanes sar beefy workhorses. Mine is in SKD12 clad in SS. It is very workhorsey.

 

[Nemo]

BTE is short for "behind the edge"