A formal apology to synthetic nagura

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Pie

Pie

you.. you got any more of them rocks?
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I’ve been hugely dismissive of them in the past. Possibly stemming from my obsession with jnats and their perceived gobs of mystique.

I’d like to retract my previous foolishness - synthetic nagura have their uses, and are damn good at it too.

This revelation brought to you by the ever glazing SG220.. extended slow geometry work really smooths this stone out. A quick scrub with the cerax 320 cleaning stone/nagura quickly adds some spicy grit and restores strong feedback and cutting power. Until I get my hands on a sigma 240..

Side note - slightly convexing this stone works wonders. No more random chunks missing from the bevel due to a big lip of stone on the right side.
 
HumbleHomeCook said:
Something you like better?
Click to expand...

I really don't have much in the way of lapping/clearing. I have a 6x6 inch 140 grit plate I got off eBay and this disc. I usually just do stone against stone. I'm not the best to give opinions. I did just use it to clean up my SG500 after sharpening and it worked well.
 
sansho said:
atoma 140 plate?
Click to expand...
It certainly works but will reduce considerably the Atoma's life span. They are a bit expensive for the matter.
For coarser stones I use this diamond pad. Take care, when it is brand new a loose particle may break out and cause terrible damage if you don't rince it carefully. No longer an issue once they have broken in. Leaves a bit of slurry that's very helpful. I've used a previous one for some two years with coarse Shaptons Pro and Glass from 120 to 320.
Screenshot_20220806-054629_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
I’ve tried the atoma 140, unfortunately it seems to leave the surface quite slick, as odd as that may seem. I could, however, very well be doing it wrong.

For all out flattening or resurfacing, I’ve defaulted to sic powder and glass plate. I don’t love doing it twice a night tho and it does take more time than rubbing nagura around quickly.

Benuser said:
It certainly works but will reduce considerably the Atoma's life span. They are a bit expensive for the matter.
For coarser stones I use this diamond pad. Take care, when it is brand new a loose particle may break out and cause terrible damage if you don't rince it carefully. No longer an issue once they have broken in. Leaves a bit of slurry that's very helpful. I've used a previous one for some two years with coarse Shaptons Pro and Glass from 120 to 320.View attachment 191909
Click to expand...
I keep seeing this posted, and likely for good reason. I can ignore it no longer. Thank you 🙂.
 
Not surprised at all by the slick surface the Atoma is leaving. It isn't glazed, though, and I don't think it makes the sharpening much less effective. You may try using much more water and reducing pressure.
 
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Benuser said:
It certainly works but will reduce considerably the Atoma's life span. They are a bit expensive for the matter.
For coarser stones I use this diamond pad. Take care, when it is brand new a loose particle may break out and cause terrible damage if you don't rince it carefully. No longer an issue once they have broken in. Leaves a bit of slurry that's very helpful. I've used a previous one for some two years with coarse Shaptons Pro and Glass from 120 to 320.View attachment 191909
Click to expand...
I've been wanting to get these for a while. Not so much for stones, but doing hand sanded finishes on high vanadium carbide knives.
 
Benuser said:
Not surprised at all by the slick surface the Atoma is leaving. It isn't glazed, though, and I don't think it makes the sharpening much less effective. You may try using much more water and reducing pressure.
Click to expand...
I’m going to have to give it some more testing.. good thing I have 280mm of bevel to work on 🤣
 
Benuser said:
Not surprised at all by the slick surface the Atoma is leaving. It isn't glazed, though, and I don't think it makes the sharpening much less effective. You may try using much more water and reducing pressure.
Click to expand...
@Benuser are you saying that even though the shapton glass 220 is smooth after you flatten it using an atoma 140 it shouldnt affect how well the shapton glass 220 cuts/abrades metal ?

what about other stones say a king deluxe 300 is it still the case even though the atoma 140 leaves a smooth finish on the king 300 it shouldnt affect how well it cuts/abrades metal?
 
boblob said:
@Benuser are you saying that even though the shapton glass 220 is smooth after you flatten it using an atoma 140 it shouldnt affect how well the shapton glass 220 cuts/abrades metal ?
Click to expand...
My suggestion about using more water and less pressure applies both to the use of the Atoma and the sharpening afterwards. I haven't seen real glazing. But as said before, these diamond pads are great if the goal isn't so much to flatten the stone as to make the surface a bit rougher. A formal apology to synthetic nagura
 
Benuser said:
It certainly works but will reduce considerably the Atoma's life span. They are a bit expensive for the matter.
For coarser stones I use this diamond pad. Take care, when it is brand new a loose particle may break out and cause terrible damage if you don't rince it carefully. No longer an issue once they have broken in. Leaves a bit of slurry that's very helpful. I've used a previous one for some two years with coarse Shaptons Pro and Glass from 120 to 320.View attachment 191909
Click to expand...

Thanks Ben, found the US amazon link for those interested:
https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Polish...electroplated+diamond+hand+pad,aps,152&sr=8-3
And the vendor (manufacturer?):
https://glasspolishshop.com/abrasive-discs-pads/diamond-pads?product_id=251
 
HumbleHomeCook said:
I like the looks of that. Have you used one?
Click to expand...

I'm going to come back to this - if you use the Shapton lapping disc, make sure to clean your stone well afterwards. The disc drops grit. Found out the hard way when I didn't clean my stone well as was trying to prep for a polish and got some nasty scratches on the knife.
 
esoo said:
I'm going to come back to this - if you use the Shapton lapping disc, make sure to clean your stone well afterwards. The disc drops grit. Found out the hard way when I didn't clean my stone well as was trying to prep for a polish and got some nasty scratches on the knife.
Click to expand...
I'm trying not to imagine the sound.
 
Benuser said:
My suggestion about using more water and less pressure applies both to the use of the Atoma and the sharpening afterwards. I haven't seen real glazing. But as said before, these diamond pads are great if the goal isn't so much to flatten the stone as to make the surface a bit rougher. A formal apology to synthetic nagura
Click to expand...
@Benuser
if you dont mind may i ask what is your reason for using the pads and atoma insted of the loose silicon carbide ?
i have my reasons for not using it but what are yours ?
 
esoo said:
You mean the "***, where did that come from?". Thankfully it was early in the progression so I hadn't put that much work in. Have put the task aside for a while as I don't want to think about it.
Click to expand...
No, I remember the horrible sound of a diamond particle when sharpening.
 
Benuser said:
Just haven't tried so far. Seems quite messy. Isn't as easily available where I live.
Click to expand...
Yeah. The mess is the worse part for me.

It is effective when other things arent though.

Particularly on stones lower than 120 grit. (And on 120 as well.)
 
boblob said:
@Benuser are you saying that even though the shapton glass 220 is smooth after you flatten it using an atoma 140 it shouldnt affect how well the shapton glass 220 cuts/abrades metal ?

what about other stones say a king deluxe 300 is it still the case even though the atoma 140 leaves a smooth finish on the king 300 it shouldnt affect how well it cuts/abrades metal?
Click to expand...
See testing abrasion rate (testing stone speed)
 
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