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Man this series turns out to be absolutely monstrous all purpose cleaver, super taper and grind, bonus picture of Xinguo working
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Anyone know of a cleaver which is close to a cck 1303 or 1302 in terms of weight and grind, but with a better and harder steel core?
 
Anyone know of a cleaver which is close to a cck 1303 or 1302 in terms of weight and grind, but with a better and harder steel core?
Not many readily available off the shelf. But @MSicardCutlery can make you a custom one with a laser thin grind. Here's mine which was spec'd out in magnacut.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...since-we-had-a-cleaver-chat.49526/post-964916
And some pics with the custom handle I made
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...ince-we-had-a-cleaver-chat.49526/post-1017149
 
Not many readily available off the shelf. But @MSicardCutlery can make you a custom one with a laser thin grind. Here's mine which was spec'd out in magnacut.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...since-we-had-a-cleaver-chat.49526/post-964916
And some pics with the custom handle I made
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...ince-we-had-a-cleaver-chat.49526/post-1017149
Seems like a great shape to have in SS with good edge retention! What's your secondary bevel angle? Looks like single digits.

What kind of handle material is that? I love look.
 
Seems like a great shape to have in SS with good edge retention! What's your secondary bevel angle? Looks like single digits.
Not sure what a secondary angle is, but my sharpening angle is probably in the range of 10-12deg if I had to guess.

What kind of handle material is that? I love look.
This particular one is a stabilized dyed maple burl.
 
Maple burl has quickly become my favorite handle material. I've got to get some to start playing with. I like that you dyed it but didn't add too much color.
 
Weird idea here, I’ve seen all sort of steel in cleavers from simple 65Mn all the way to MagnaCut, but seems like I never see anyone using 3V, only Bidinger used it on his chef knives. Would 3V make a killer all purpose cleaver with slightly thicker back for chopping?
 
Weird idea here, I’ve seen all sort of steel in cleavers from simple 65Mn all the way to MagnaCut, but seems like I never see anyone using 3V, only Bidinger used it on his chef knives. Would 3V make a killer all purpose cleaver with slightly thicker back for chopping?
My experience with Z-wear (slightly higher carbon content than 3V), yes.
 
Hello. Can anyone give me some tips on using cleavers or places I can go for learning about it? I have a CCK 1302 that I really don't find very fun to use. I was so excited about it, but it just doesn't cut very well. It was pretty dull out of the box and had some flaws. There are matching over grinds on both sides of the knife in the same spot. There's a second overgrind by on one of the bevels. From the factory it had a pretty nasty recurve in the center. I managed to get the recurve out while sharpening to around 18° on each side. It got sharp, but did not feel great cutting anything. So I resharpened it to a lower 14° on both sides. I was hoping for a dramatic improvement but it's still just not great IMO. I could work on thinning or polishing out the deep belt marks on the primary bevel. But I think that would impact food release pretty severely right?

I like to chop up one cabbage every week while meal prepping salads. I was most excited to use the cleaver for that task. I thought the extra height and weight was going to help get through it. But, it just really doesn't want to drop through food like that as I hoped it would.

IMO the CCK 1302 doesn't have quite enough weight to drop through product, especially with something like a cabbage. With something like cucumber it'll do fine if the skin isn't too thick, and especially if you leave the edge toothy (e.g. don't take it past 1000 grit except for a few stropping passes on a fine grit stone). But after using my 1302 (300 grams) for about a year and a half I decided to go to a full sized cleaver (220 X 110) to bring the weight up. I've used a CCk 1103 that was around 350 grams and that was better, but once I tried a Suien VC at 430 gr I knew that for me going with something in the 400+ gram range was what I wanted.
 
IMO the CCK 1302 doesn't have quite enough weight to drop through product, especially with something like a cabbage. With something like cucumber it'll do fine if the skin isn't too thick, and especially if you leave the edge toothy (e.g. don't take it past 1000 grit except for a few stropping passes on a fine grit stone). But after using my 1302 (300 grams) for about a year and a half I decided to go to a full sized cleaver (220 X 110) to bring the weight up. I've used a CCk 1103 that was around 350 grams and that was better, but once I tried a Suien VC at 430 gr I knew that for me going with something in the 400+ gram range was what I wanted.
With a Chinese vegetable cleaver, one let's the knife do the work. My 200X100 Shibazi f/208-2 is my chopper; my Japanese nakiri is a lightweight slicer--and my long nakiri is somewhere in between.
 
IMO the CCK 1302 doesn't have quite enough weight to drop through product, especially with something like a cabbage. With something like cucumber it'll do fine if the skin isn't too thick, and especially if you leave the edge toothy (e.g. don't take it past 1000 grit except for a few stropping passes on a fine grit stone). But after using my 1302 (300 grams) for about a year and a half I decided to go to a full sized cleaver (220 X 110) to bring the weight up. I've used a CCk 1103 that was around 350 grams and that was better, but once I tried a Suien VC at 430 gr I knew that for me going with something in the 400+ gram range was what I wanted.
130x series of knives are bit misunderstood, they are light weight slicers for very precise work, not a all purpose cleaver. They are really good knives, just don’t expect them to do everything, the 190x series of stainless knives are actually better at all purpose despite looking very similar in appearance
 
IMO the CCK 1302 doesn't have quite enough weight to drop through product, especially with something like a cabbage. With something like cucumber it'll do fine if the skin isn't too thick, and especially if you leave the edge toothy (e.g. don't take it past 1000 grit except for a few stropping passes on a fine grit stone). But after using my 1302 (300 grams) for about a year and a half I decided to go to a full sized cleaver (220 X 110) to bring the weight up. I've used a CCk 1103 that was around 350 grams and that was better, but once I tried a Suien VC at 430 gr I knew that for me going with something in the 400+ gram range was what I wanted.
The other part of the weight equation I forgot to mention, at least for me, is the balance point. A more weight-forward cleaver drops through product easier for me, even if the total weight isn't as much. One example is the CCK 1103 I have was an ebay purchase. It had a weird, long handle on it. I re-handled it with a short, fat Wa-style handle that actually decreased the total weight by 10 grams, but it brought the balance point forward by just over a 1/2". Just this little change improved how well it would drop through veggies with a slight push or pull of the knife to initiate the cut.
 
Weird idea here, I’ve seen all sort of steel in cleavers from simple 65Mn all the way to MagnaCut, but seems like I never see anyone using 3V, only Bidinger used it on his chef knives. Would 3V make a killer all purpose cleaver with slightly thicker back for chopping?

I would think so. Well treated K390 should be pretty awesome too.
 
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